PDX GSX1300R

LC4CARL

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Did you send yours off to Race Tech? I've heard of Gold Valves, but never tried them.

sixpack577

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Sweet. The devil is in the details. I'm +/- 165# in my shorts. So maybe +/- 185 in gear. As many other mods are on this machine, it would not surprise me if the suspension has been played with too. Are there markings on the stock rear spring? The existing rear spring is black and adjusted just past mid way on the pre-load. Difficult to see.

Maybe I could remove a front spring to check for markings.

I once swapped a coil-over set up into a car. Getting the spring rates right made an enormous difference. Loved it.
We weigh basically the same.
Stock suspension will adjust fine for you...but aftermarket suspension is much better if it's in the budget.
I would back off the preload on the rear spring to about 3 threads visible above the top lock-ring.
That should get you really close to good sag numbers.
Shoot for 30mm to 40mm of sag, 35mm probably being ideal.
30mm is more track(smooth)40mm is more street(less rigid over bumps).
Front preload is simply turning the adjuster with a wrench or socket, there are 5 lines, start at the 3rd, count that the turns are the same each side.
Also measure the fork height above the top triple clamp, make sure they are the same. I forget the setting, but it's only a few mm.
Front compression and rebound will be 3-4 turns counter clockwise, ballpark.
Rear C and R will be 12-18 turns cc, ballpark.
And, while you do this, only change one thing at a time.
These are a good starting point.
The preload is measured for sag, but can still use fine tuning.
This is done by going riding, pulling over, fine adjustment of one thing, ride again, repeat.
It's also a Great idea to put your C or R all the way soft or firm, either way will totally wreck the handling...but, you will Feel what is screwed up, now start counting the turns back, and feel the difference.
This can be frustrating, but you will quickly start to learn what's happening and what you need to do.
Having someone set the suspension is great, but if you can follow along and learn, even better.
Knowing what's happening and how to fix it will take your riding ability to the next level.

LC4CARL

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Awesome. I can tell that I'm going to learn a lot.

C44FF73A-B2EB-454F-B45D-4307A3F86EBF-M.jpg

LC4CARL

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Alrighty. We have:

BF9F9139-ABD7-43CE-989B-946E82675A22-M.jpg


+/- 3.5 mm from the clamp to the top surface of the cap.

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B5F1DF1C-3C5F-4E30-BD70-975F22C02AC4-M.jpg


+/- 6 3/4 turns counterclockwise on the brass adjusters (spring preload?). And 2 clicks out CC on the inner adjusters (compression damping?).

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F6823B1C-8EBA-474C-BA16-A8B9193809B3-M.jpg


Out back, on the top we are at 9 clicks out (compression?).

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7BC31F2D-6C50-4602-B01E-007FD1460FB6-M.jpg


At the bottom (rebound?), we are 6 clicks out from lightly bottomed.

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1FCEFE15-59B9-4801-9CA0-37C95ECB72B8-M.jpg


Rear spring pre-load looks like this. And I ordered the magic sag stick.

I may start an Excel sheet to track my changes...

sixpack577

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Alrighty. We have:

View attachment 1645606

+/- 3.5 mm from the clamp to the top surface of the cap.

---

View attachment 1645607

+/- 6 3/4 turns counterclockwise on the brass adjusters (spring preload?). And 2 clicks out CC on the inner adjusters (compression damping?).

---

View attachment 1645608

Out back, on the top we are at 9 clicks out (compression?).

---

View attachment 1645609

At the bottom (rebound?), we are 6 clicks out from lightly bottomed.

---

View attachment 1645610

Rear spring pre-load looks like this. And I ordered the magic sag stick.

I may start an Excel sheet to track my changes...
Those settings aren't good for your weight. There is also no exact place they should be, you'll have to find it(other than the fork height in the triple clamps).
And unless that rear shock is completely worn out...it has got to be a hard and bumpy ride with that much preload.
Definately count the turns for front preload, but use the reference lines on the side for an idea of where you're at.

LC4CARL

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Thx boss. I'll take a closer look at the front pre-load adjusters for the reference lines. The previous owner was +/- 35 lbs heavier than myself.

sixpack577

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Thx boss. I'll take a closer look at the front pre-load adjusters for the reference lines. The previous owner was +/- 35 lbs heavier than myself.
35 lbs is a Huge difference in suspension settings.

LC4CARL

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Figured out what you meant by the front pre-load "reference lines." And I read the manual and found the front compression adjuster (8 clicks out). I've got skills...

Forecast is dry this weekend. Just saying.

sixpack577

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Figured out what you meant by the front pre-load "reference lines." I've got skills...

Forecast is dry this weekend. Just saying.
Cool...I hope you can get out and get some seat time.

LC4CARL

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Found this:


Chicks dig fine tuned suspensions...

sixpack577

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Found this:


Chicks dig fine tuned suspensions...
Yeah, that's a good read.
Basically, break your suspension into 3rds.
You want the top 3rd of travel to 'sag' under your weight when you sit on it.
The middle 3rd to be where it does most of it's work.
And the bottom 3rd as your 'over rev' or excess travel, for hard bumps and potholes.
The zip-tie around the fork leg is a great trick too, as it lets you see if or how close to bottoming out it really is.
Yep matching blue zip-ties, I like any color bike as long as it's black, my buddy likes blue, so I cut off the black ones I had on there and put blue ones on for him(hey, I ride for Free, so...lmao)
They also sit a little higher than where they are in the picture, they got moved while the wheel was off.

Screenshot_20220104-225709_Gallery.jpg

LC4CARL

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Serious question: Why do road racers put their inside leg out when entering corners?

sixpack577

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Serious question: Why do road racers put their inside leg out when entering corners?
Casey Stoner started it, it was just his thing.
He dominated for a while, and apparently the copy cats thought that was his secret.
Just a way of moving your weight about, or even just having fun.
Looks like a good way to get a broken leg.
I did MX for a couple seasons years ago, and I never understood Why it's taught to stick your leg out with a straight knee in corners either.
To me it's useless and really just stupid, no gain and a Big risk of a leg injury. If the rear end tried to wash out I could get my foot off the peg in time and/or shift my weight quickly to the other side.
To the roadracers with their leg out, they'll tell you it helps, to the guys that don't, they'll tell you it doesn't.
All in what you like I guess.

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Casey Stoner started it, it was just his thing.
He dominated for a while, and apparently the copy cats thought that was his secret.
Just a way of moving your weight about, or even just having fun.
Looks like a good way to get a broken leg.
I did MX for a couple seasons years ago, and I never understood Why it's taught to stick your leg out with a straight knee in corners either.
To me it's useless and really just stupid, no gain and a Big risk of a leg injury. If the rear end tried to wash out I could get my foot off the peg in time and/or shift my weight quickly to the other side.
To the roadracers with their leg out, they'll tell you it helps, to the guys that don't, they'll tell you it doesn't.
All in what you like I guess.
I Googled it and this is what one site said....other sites echo it's content though..

sixpack577

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I Googled it and this is what one site said....other sites echo it's content though..

Yep, I agree with that.
Results seem minimal at best, but then again, at the speeds and times they are running, the smallest thing can make all the difference.

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Yep, I agree with that.
Results seem minimal at best, but then again, at the speeds and times they are running, the smallest thing can make all the difference.
I've never seen it done at any other race level either....and generally when I see it in Moto GP it is done by a very chosen few-the points leader didn't do it...
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