Parts Ready for Powder Coating

Also, another reason for this post is to show some people not familiar with striping parts, just what they should look like when done. Everyone has a different Idea of what is acceptable for prepping. Really consider if your up to the task, it's not hard, but to do it right it is time consuming, and labor intensive, however the end product in my opinion is completely worth the effort. Thank's for everyone's input, and a new respect for all you people that Polish all your parts to a mirror finish!
Pro using sand blasting and/or stronger chemicals.
As for what acceptable for cleaning...
Powder could be layed on top of paint...
And a lot of people do that. I won`t...
How many chromed parts with peeling chrome you`ve seen ...
Same cause... bad surface prep.
 
This Looks like something i need to do i quess i better get started on this ...
 
Yes valium that price was for everything. I was happy with that. I thought it would be 3 to 4 hundred. I appologized to the guys for all the little screw heads the had to do for me. I purchased extra body screws so I would have extras ready to go just incase.

I pressed out the bushings for mine. The biggest pain in the ass was dremaling off the extra coating in areas of close tolerance. I had my levers done also but I could not get the adjustment to work well so I went with the carbon fiber look levers. they match my pipe and chain guard so over all I was pleased.

One more note if you have a single pipe you can cut the left pasenger peg down and loose the empty hole look. I did.
 
The biggest pain in the ass was dremaling off the extra coating in areas of close tolerance.
I promise, no overspay....
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don`t worry John..

coat will be even and free of overspray.
 
1.5 Hrs of prep time. They just need to be stripped to be powdercoated. no need to do any sanding. $80 for the powder coating.

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1.5 Hrs of prep time. They just need to be stripped to be powdercoated. no need to do any sanding. $80 for the powder coating.
Since I never preped parts for powder coating, I took my time. Most of the time was letting the stripper do it's thing. I could maybe cut my time down by half, knowing what I know now - but we all have to learn sometime. Also, soaking in brake cleaner, & soaping, was maybe a little overkill...but, like I said, this was my first time & didn't want to create a headache for Vic.
 
All the extra prep will still show in the end! Great job! Get some pictures when done and installed. looking forward to seeing it.
 
This sounds stupid....But when putting the stripper on the part, use a brush and only apply the stripper in ONE DIRECTION! This will make a huge time differance. Trust me. ONE DIRECTION. Don't just slop it on. It should start to bubble the paint off with in seconds.
 
This sounds stupid....But when putting the stripper on the part, use a brush and only apply the stripper in ONE DIRECTION! This will make a huge time differance. Trust me. ONE DIRECTION. Don't just slop it on. It should start to bubble the paint off with in seconds.
Good tip... and to be even more specific, do NOT keep brushing over areas that stripper is already on. The stripper solution contains stuff (I think some use a type of parafin wax... could be wrong) that skins over and holds the chemical on the paint, slowing it's rate of evaporation. If you brush the stripper on and then brush back across the same area you will break up the skinned over layer and allow the stripper to evaporate quicker and not work as effectively.

So, apply LIBERALLY, in one direction, and do not repeatedly brush over the same area. Another trick for larger flat areas is to apply the stripper heavily in a single direction and then lay a garbage bag on top of the stripper to hold the chemicals on the paint surface longer. That would be kinda tough on bike bits though.
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