PAIR valve for sale



The week-end before the last was a busy one. A week or so earlier my bike dropped on a concrete wall. I mean literally, slowly, it dropped. I had parked it in an underground parking, very close to the wall so not to obstruct passage, but I hadn’t noticed a oh so very small slope. Got off the bike, took my luggage, started to walk away – boom. Yes, the oRg lore clearly indicates that there is a mod to prevent that. You know what they say, that experience is the sum of all the stupid things you’ve done. Well, I am a guy with a lot of experience.

The bike had leaned and contacted the wall on the stand side. It is an awkward position from which to recover if you have no help. I had to squeeze, really squeeze, myself between the wall and push it upward mainly with my legs. After that, got content with expressing a specific kind of rage at the guy who had done that to my precious.

The windscreen was broken, so were a few plastic bolts and one fairing attachment piece came off. Minor scratches on the mid-part of the left fairing. So I got on it, ordered a replacement from an eBay vendor in Hong-Kong. It was $25 including shipping, with new bolts. I said what the hell, gave it a try. It arrived (in Canada) 6 days later. I am no plastic specialist, but I find the replacement indistinguishable from the one I had, thickness, rigidity, shape, tint, it even smelled the same.

All winter long I had accumulated goodies and now, with this needed repair and a rainy week-end, I ended up spending the whole two days in the garage. And today, overcast and rainy, it seems I have plenty of time to write about it. So here it is.

For a show and tell effect, you can follow with the photo gallery here:

MobileMe Gallery

First photo, you see the culprit, not that a big piece that came off, but it still had to go. Took it off and put in the replacement, you can see them both side by side in photo 3. Then I took off the PAIR valve, put in block-off plates. Looking at the close up photo of one of them, I see that one screw is in 2 turns, and the other 3 turns. Mmm, may be another experience gaining circumstance here, I’ll have a second look. Of course, I blocked the airbox opening.

I then had an oil change and put it a Scotts permanent filter. It fits quite well, but the “tool†that comes with it, a kind of cap to be used with a ratchet, can’t be used. The filter comes too close to the pipes and there’s no way to fit a ratchet in there. I had to use a pipe wrench to tighten it.

And there were the Buell pegs. Easy enough to put on, but readjusting levers and switch takes some time. I am not sure I like this mod. It does give you an extra inch or so, but you have to point your foot inward a bit more to actuate the levers. Especially the rear brake, I don’t feel I’m “on it†like I’d like. Easy, fluid, fast and automatic access to the rear brake lever is an essential part of my riding habits – I’ll wait and see, but might come back to the bulky but sturdy originals that have rubber.

Then a PCIII came in. I had plenty of time to use the software and toy with it during winter, besides I had a map made by FuelMoto which seems to be going quite well. Although maybe my idle is a little low/rough, but I did not take the time to try and adjust it. Do we do that manually if we have a PC, or do we just change/adjust the map? And then, oh what’s that? Z-Bomb? Yes officer, this is to provide extra lighting in unusually dark or foggy conditions. A life saver, really. I’m glad my granny gave it to me for my birthday. And a good day to you too.

And what would be the point of all this without proper breathing? So a Pipercross filter (the airbox mod had already been done). Now we’re all set, but wait. Those long rides crumpling your right wrist are over, with a brand new Throttlemeister. I chose the long version, on a whim really. I never use such a device for very long periods of time, may be 5 or 10 minutes an hour, but man does it make a difference. This new one works so well, easy to use, the move to operate it becomes second nature in no time. Also, the color scheme is right on my palette .

And there’s more: fairing screens. I wasn’t sure about those. One: doesn’t it restrict air flow? In an acceptable way? Two: will this be just a bug trap, then really blocking airflow? Did I just put in something requiring maintenance? But the look is great. Nonetheless, if I see the slightest decrease in cooling or engine performance, I’ll take them off. Finally, I almost forgot, a tank bra.

There you have it for this first round. I still have stuff that are just waiting to be put in: Galfer braided lines (all) and EBC HH pads, A so a new undertail, I’m not comfortable with the rear visibility provided by my actual one, and I’m not found of that deep license plate placement. I’m also nearing the time indicated in the manual for valve inspection. I use to do it every year on my GS1150. It used an screw/counterscrew system. But I see that the Busa uses a shim system. Is it hard to do this yourself, and do you have to buy a shim set, or can you buy only the ones you need?

And , wait a minute. Is this sunshine through the window?

Yep. Gotta go.


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