OPENING & EXTENDING RAM AIR NOSTRILS

Dirty Pete

This is my first post here, so try not to laugh too hard. I've drag raced for 18+ years now. I hope this info is not too basic for you. The first thing I've always recommended people to do is to establish an accurate base line for comparison. You also need to know some basic weather info. because it will affect your testing. So if you don't have a logbook, you might want to start one. I always record the date, time of day, temp, barometric press, relative humidity, and altitude (this is a bit tricky, because it changes during the day so you will need to find an altimeter.). At this point you can start recording for your base line. If you don't have a weather station ask some one at your local track if they can help out. I've always found that the REAL racers will help. Try to be as consistent as possible in all your test. It's important to make only one change at a time. You will never know what you gained other wise. Keeping good notes will really make a difference.

Horsepower/Drag is usually reflected by your MPH, Torque and Traction shows up in E.T.

If you do decide to test at a dragstrip, your ram air effect may be hard to see (it will probably come in right when you need to stop). Your drag coefficient on the other hand will more obvious. All too often I've heard people say "It felt great when I was on the street, but I lost 3 tenths on the track".

On the cosmetic side of personalizing your bike. You might try taking a BW picture of the front and side of your bike. Blow it up as big as you want. Then use a magic marker to draft your changes.

Good Luck
 
Hey welcome to our psycho ward, Maui.

One thing I can tell you is that if I lose power with this mod, it does not stay.

I don't mind reverting to stock when stock works and looks so great.

Does Hi stand for Hawaii? Are you actually in Maui? I've had some beautiful rides around Oahu on a GPZ 1000 (it was rented in Honolulu...did I get the model right?)

The Banzai Pipeline area is mind blowing.

And by the way, don't talk to me about dragging technique, talk to Frank Adams and Gixxer1300r. Go to the thread "How to get your Busa in to the 9s" or search under their names.



[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 09 September 1999).]
 
Drag racing smag racing. I just like too see people get the results they want. And if others can benefit from it, great! The weather data and record keeping work in every environment. What you seem to be going after is horsepower and speed. Two of my favorite things.

Yes, on the Maui
 
Thanks Mr Bear and Jamie: Thanks to your generous advice and the advice of others in this thread, I feel well prepared to go ahead.

I did read that article and will be looking out for the follow-up one.

Jamie that's all good advice. I am looking for horsepower gains without breaking the engine open because I put a lot of miles on my bike and I really like the reliability factor. I'm into sprockets, airbox, exhaust, etc.

I have to admit that I also want to do a great looking job on the intakes, too, so my Busa is a little different from the others on the road. And what looks meaner than nicely executed intakes?
 
Thanks, Jamie. I really don't know much about air induction, and like I said, that article looked to me like just a good starting point, to get some ideas stirring.

To gauge my level of ignorance, I wondered if the injection mapping would handle changes in airbox pressure outside its normal stock range. I thought about it after sending my last post, and couldn't think of a reason why it wouldn't handle it just fine.

You are talking about doing it the right way, not rolling the thing into your garage and going to town on it with a Dremel tool and a fiberglass kit (not that that was what you were going to do, Pete...no offense intended).

The intakes on the Yoshimura Hayabusa race bike have the turn signals removed. That's an idea...copying somebody who knows what they are doing works a lot of times.
 
Mr Bear, yes there will be a garage, a Dremel and a fiberglas kit involved in my project. Likely some beer, some cursing, a frustrated wife and a hammer, too.

Regarding the turn signals and my other plans, take a look at the my first post at the beginning of the topic.
 
Just my thoughts guys :
You may marginally improve your power output. But don't forget that ram air only works at high speed. If might only require a small increase in your drag coefficient to more than counteract your power improvement.
 
Sounds like the ingredients for a fine evening to me, Pete. I find the hammer comes in most handy for freeing up a stuck thought process, being good for making minor adjustments to the brain housing assembly. I don't recommend using it on the bike or the wife.

You will most likely get a result which looks better to you, rather than a significant performance boost. But it would be worthwhile to get some really good performance data before and after, just to see. What does the Bible say about it? "If thine airduct offend thee..."
 
I'll throw in my 2 cents.

In a thread a couple of weeks ago we talked about Ram Air and the Sport Bike article. Search on Ram Air to find it.

My premise then was that the stock intakes were big enough to provide 6 times more air than the engine could eat. Remember it only eats 1300cc's every 2 revolutions. Intake size is considerably bigger than necessary already. Yet a slight vacuum was measured in the Bus air box until 140 mph. Rather than tear up the aerodynamics and looks of the bike and perhaps create instability and uglyness, why not solve the "vacuum in the air box" problem.

I would start by figuring out a way to properly measure the airbox pressure. My idea is to use a Fluke pressure head and a Fluke Scopemeter. I am guessing it will be sensitive enough. Where in the airbox you measure is important. If you are anywhere near Pennsylvania I'll bring mine over and we can tinker. I charge a beer an hour for my time and tools.

Step 2 would be to smooth out the airbox aerodynamics. Kind of like what you do when you port and polish engine intakes and manifolds. Some of the ideas above may be the answer.

Once airbox pressure is solved you will have to remap the fuel and change to a better flowing pipe. Then dyno the thing to see if we really did any good.

This my idea of fun stuff.
 
Lyle,
Camp Hill are friggin kidding me? I work in Mechanicsburg, live near York. You own a Busa? Or just want to play some time? I love to try to make stuff better. Give me a shout at ZX1206@aol.com


Pete,
I may be wrong but there's only so much air if front of the bike at high speeds. With your big displacement and a big intake (46mm throttle bodies and big valves etc.) it will be damn hard to not have a vacume in the airbox. These are the draw backs of a big engine, no big readings on the boost gauge.

Another error I noticed in that article was it says ZX11 came out in 92 with the first ram air on a production bike. Sorta true, it was in '90. If anyone doubts me a 1990 is capable of 175 stock a 1992 is capable of 175 stock. If the 92 had RA wouldn't the tops speed have gone up? NO FLAMES ABOUT NINJAS PLEASE!

The statement dynos and ram air don't mix was made somewhere on the net, maybe here. HP gain of ram air can't be measured on the dyno but otherwise everything else is normal. If a pipe adds 5hp sitting still it adds at least that with the RA active. There's no need to jet rich on the dyno so that the RA will bring it back into spec at speed unless the RA and it's fuel bowl tube size was designed wrong from the factory (not likely). I realize the Busa has FI too.

Pete,
Didn't I read somewhere that the turn signals were used to scoop air into the ducts? From the pictures of the Yosh bike that I've seen, it appears to have standard size ducts. The signal is missing but is "replaced" with the body work filling in that area.

Don't dismiss the bored throttle body idea. It worked well on my car and my bike. I fitted a set of 42mm carbs off of a CBR1100XX to my ZX11. I haven't got the low (2500-4000) RPM jetting quite right yet but the high RPM power is unbelievable. I'm guessing 10hp more. I haven't measured it yet though. I know it's faster cause it scares me again.

That's 2 more cents, I'll be broke in no time.
 
Hey Pete, How about a 'Supercharger'? Just keep changing the gearing until you get 'enough air' inside you bird!

By the way the airbox mod is great. I used the Dremel to cut out everything insinde of the air filter. Even reached down into the box and cut out the flapper valve supportt posts. The box is now empty.
What a difference. Throttle response is 'wicked', and mid range pickup...astounding!!

See ya...Bob
 
Bob...I'm picking up all that Bagster stuff today...tank cover, tank bag & seat cover.

Thanks for the tip.

Glad the airbox thing worked out for you.

I'm at Brampton Cycle today at 11 A.M. til 2 P.M. getting dyno tuned. Drop by and watch the smoke fly if you want.
 
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