OPENING & EXTENDING RAM AIR NOSTRILS

O

OB_Dirty Pete

Registered
There seems to be no doubt that Suzuki has not optimized the ram air in the Busa.

This winter, I intend to do custom fiberglas work on my front fairing to force more air into the nostrils.

Lacking a 200 MPH wind tunnel in my garage, I'll be doing this pretty much from sketches based on guesswork.

Taking the clue from Kawasaki who are the acknowledged experts in ram air, I'm going enlarge the air entrances (by removing the integrated turn signals) and extend the nostrils' air entrances further forward into less turbulent, high-pressure air. I will also flare the nostril extensions slightly to capture more air.

I believe this can all be done in a very aesthetically pleasing way that's consistent with the Busa's overall styling.

Has anyone else done any thinking in this area that they could share...upside potential... unwanted side effects...test methodologies other than top speed runs (impractical)...aerodynamic tips...
 
I have one set of fairing ( slightly used...) that I was thinking about doing the same thing on....Who need turnsignals at 200MPH ?
They never know what passes them anyhow....
 
Yngve, I would be willing to exchange drawings with you via e-mail if you're doing it too.

I'm going to mount new turn indicators elsewhere. If I can flush-mount them in the rear view mirrors (I think the Honda Blackbird does this) that would work well.
 
Why not ? I was looking at the "edge" around the air intake. Almost like they are made to put some big air funnels there. Ill be looking more closely on it over this weekend ( going back to where I live this weekend ) and try to make a drawing on how I want to do it. Dont hold your breath though because I am notorious for forgetting things....hehehehe
I also got some ideas about exhaust systems and so on , Ill do them over the winter. ( gonna cost me to make true 4-1 one off exausthsystems but I cant bring money with me to the grave so...)
yngvek@student.hin.no
 
Let me know what you guys come up with. I have an extra upper faring and have thought about trying to modify the air inlets. I thought a strip of plastic or carbon fiber molded to fit between the signals and inlet opening might work. If it stuck out an inch or so it would grab air that normally flows over the signals and redirect it into the inlets. I don't really want to cut my stuff but would try these spoiler type winglets. Just tape on and fly! 200MPH tape that is.
 
Be sure to test the air inlets on dyno because I have been playing araond with the oem inlets and other tubes and so far the stock inlets gave the most power, but anyhow I´m going to make new ones that work with my new bigger airbox.
 
TOJ: Correct me if I'm wrong (I don't argue about things like this with aircraft techicians who are also speed shop operators) but I think that air nostril efficiency is not testable on any dyno.

Not even on dynos that can fan 200 mph air into the nostrils, if such things exist. Why? Because you have to have the full effect of high speed airflow around the entire bike to get accurate results on intake mods.

To do that indoors, you would have to have a dyno mounted inside a full scale wind tunnel.

My local dealer is not yet offering this service...backward sot that he is.

I'm just going to have to make my mods based on the general principle that bigger nostrils projected further forward will pack more air, then maybe test them by taping a stopwatch to my bar and timing my 120 to 160 mph acceleration pre and post.

Comments, TOJ?
 
The answer is "YASABI".

Tden you would have a "YASABIBUSA", a real rip snorting beast!

Have you considered this green horse raddish that is served with sushi. That stuff will open and extend any ram air nostril.

[This message has been edited by KawAbuser (edited 08 September 1999).]
 
You are going to have trouble testing modifications to air ducts on a dyno. What they do sitting on the dyno will have no bearing on what they do at speed.

Also, just scooping more air into your intake does not mean you are going to see a power or speed increase. You will alter your fuel-air mixture, and will give yourself a whole new set of tuning headaches to try to get sorted out. Also, you will probably succeed in slightly increasing your 'Busa's overall drag coefficient.

It is a good thing to think about, an interesting engineering/tuning problem. But those Japanese engineers are smart. If you improve on one performance factor of their design, you are probably going to lose more in another area. Unless you have a fully-equipped R & D facility, I don't think you will win with a garage modification.
 
Ken Warby of Australia broke (and still holds) the world water speed record in a boat he literally smacked together in his garage.

Knowing virtually nothing about hydrodynamics or aerodynamics, he just kept tickling his boat with a wrench and a saw until it went faster.

The guy is my hero. If he can make a pile of plywood go 345mph on water, I can get some more horsepower out of that ram air.

I will use YASABI only as a last resort.

But I WILL use it if I have to.

[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 08 September 1999).]
 
Mr Bear,
I absolutely agree if we are not careful in what we cut out or add especially to the front of the bike we will more then likely hurt its aerodynamics.
 
You are right on the aerodynamics as far as top speed is concerned. There IS going to be a sacrifice in that area but that's not what I care about.

I do care if a nose mod causes instability or makes a lot of noise.

If that happens, I will either modify further or remove the mod altogether.

Given these cancerns I guess it would be wise to resign mayself to the possibility of having to buy another nose fairing.

Hey, I haven't even started and already I'm planning for failure!

How about a little encouragement or constructive criticism!
 
Well Pete,I'm going to give you a little secret.Making the inlet to the airbox larger by itself wont do any good.Bigger doesnt alway mean better.You should also make a floor to the ramair tubes to straighten out the flow to the airbox.Right now if you look at the ramair tubes you will see the pocket that catches water on the bottom.This is where air swirls around before entering the airbox.This means the air isnt entering the airbox at the best possible speed.Split the ram air tube in 2 parts and make a floor for it using ABS plastic.I've done this on a 96 GSXR 750.It works.
 
To D.P. I´m not reffering to test the mods on a dyno with actual airflow araond the bike but you must look at the airbox and the inlets as a part of the intake system and therefore it has its own pulses that alter the performance of the engine, thats why you can se gains/lossee on a static dyno but it would be nice to test this as well with actual airflow.
 
Dirty Pete, I am behind you 100% with your efforts, from what I know about the fuel injection system it adjusts fuel from "intake pressure" which means airbox pressure.

Bigger scoops mean more air at any given road speed, and the fuel injection system will compensate by adding more fuel to maintain mixture, and you will get extra power.

I have been working on some larger scoops for my Suzuki TL1000R, which on my bike can be just bolted on.

The best way to test real power at speed is to use a datalogger to measure time from speed A to speed B, and calc horsepower gain from that. Good luck, and when/if I get time to bolt some bigger scoops on my personal bike I will post the results here in case anyone is interested.
 
Pete, I don't mean to sound like a pessimist. There is such a thing as mechanical talent, and there is nothing wrong with being self-taught.

I suppose the best thing I could say is that if I wanted to do that type of mod, I would do a lot of research. One good article I saw as a starter (you may have seen it) is in the October issue of Sport Rider, starting on P. 42. The title is "Ram Air Test...Finding Out Who's Flowing and Who's Blowing." Looks like the October issue only had part 1 of the Article, so apparently there will be more in the November issue.

The article bears out your initial hypothesis, that it does not appear that Suzuki optimized the potential of the ducts for contributing to horsepower. In fact, the author, Mr. Kunitsugu (as well as the data) indicate that Kawasaki is the only one of the Japanese manufacturers that seems to really know what they are doing with ram air scoops on their motorcycles.
 
Mr. Bear,

Don't put too much faith in that article. A qiuck scan of it revealed a few mistakes. The boldest was that a ZX9 takes it's air from over the frame. Well the old B model ones did but not the new C (?) models.

Pete,

If you're looking to gauge your modifiacations you need a way to measure airbox pressure as well as acceleration. A G-tech pro could be used for the timing. Put it on quarter mile timing. Run it up to 120 and hit the button. When it says "go" run up to your target speed. The readings will be able to be used to gauge your gains or losses. A map sensor and a Cyberdyne boost gauge might be able to measure airbox pressure. The gauge works in tenths of a PSI so it might work. Maybe you could wire a resistor into the mix to get more movement from the gauge. Then you'd have a bigger scale to work from. The guys at Cyberdyne could tell you how to modify the gauge or if they caould do it.

The TLR guy is right. The Busa's map sensor can deal with the added boost unlike a set of carbs.

If you are looking for big gains look elsewere. Get your head cleaned up or bore out the throttle bodies. Degree your cams to suit your RPM needs. Get a programable fuel injection computer or an adjuustable regulator. Maybe there are gains to be had by raising or lowering the fuel pressure. Those chips you can buy for cars, all they do is lean out the mixture and advance the timing.

Ram air is voo doo. What seems like it should work doesn't always. Measure whatever you can so you know if you've sped up or slowed down.

Falcondick,
Do you sit at home and jerk off when people are pissed at you? Why are you such an ass? You've chosen the right profession though, mall security.

Jamie

[This message has been edited by Jamie (edited 09 September 1999).]
 
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