Oil change tips?

BulletTrain

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Since the maintainance forum usually takes too long to get replies I thought I'd post this here. If I'm too far outta line I guess a moderator will smack me back into place...

Any tips and/or tricks for an oil change? I've got just over 100 miles on my busa and I want to change the oil to get rid of any metal particles from the initial new engine break-in. I have the oil and a filter. Any tips to make it go smoother for a first timer? I want to try and do it tomorrow.
 
I would be interested in a "how to" as well. I believe that you need to remove the right fairing, and a Suzuki wrench for the oil filter, but I have not yet removed the fairings on my bike and a few tips from those that have done so would be appreciated.

Kent
 
Yeah, I was thinking along the lines of maybe where to put masking tape to avoid fairing scratches and such. I know I'll find all those spots myself when I do it but I'd rather learn from the mistakes and misfortunes of others and avoid the scratches. ;)
 
When taking the plastics off, just make sure that you are somewhat gentle with them. You might need to wiggle it around to actually get it away from the bike, the damned things are on there good!

Only the right one needs to come off. You can use a Suzuki tool, or if you have a small enough filter wrench you can use that as well. The drain bolt is on bottom right in between the exhaust pipes. You will need a Shallow pan to drain the oil into.

If you only have 100 miles on there I would just wait until ready for initial service and then do it myself on a regular basis. Been doin my own for a bit now, not difficult at all.
 
Thanks for the tips, vincent. I change the break-in oil out on all my vehicles and toys early the first time. I usually get a fair amount of metal shavings during that oil change. I figure getting it out ASAP is better than letting it float around and possible circulate. Just a routine that I have. :)
 
OK. Changing the oil.

Let the bike run for a few minutes to get things nice and hot. Burning yourself is part of the process and the hot oil will come out faster. Put the bike on a rear stand. Or the center stand. Or use the side stand if you have nothing else.

You need to remove the right side plastic. Start with all the easy to find aluminum hex bolts. Let's see... I think there's three along the turn signal area, three more along the bottom front, one on the bottom rear, two large bolts in the middle, one under the throttle. Then there is a plastic retainer also under the throttle. Then get the push-pin rivet out of the inner fairing above and behind the front wheel -- near right side of the radiator. Start by pulling the lower back of the plastic up. Pull it loose from the knob near the tank, but be careful that the front section doesn't come loose suddenly and scratch the nearby paint. Carefully work the front loose. And pull towards the rear to avoid scratching the headlight fairing. Bending is OK, but do not force.

Under the engine, between the exhaust pipes is the oil drain plug. Put something that will hold about a gallon of oil under there. Remove the plug. It has standard threads -- left to loosen -- right to tighten. The plug has a magnet built into it. Check it for big metal bits. And loosen the plug above the oil level window -- the add oil plug.

Along the front of the engine is the oil filter. Black cylinder, between the header pipes and the engine case, pointed forward. Once the oil has slowed to a drip from the drain plug, remove the filter. Might need a strap wrench for this. I use a rubber strap wrench from a grocery store used for opening stubborn pickle jars and the like.

Wipe the openings to both the drain plug and oil filter with a clean cloth. Using some clean oil, wet the gasket on the new oil filter and install it. Run it down tight. Reinstall the drain plug. Those are aluminum threads there, so do not strip the threads by getting things too tight. Snug is enough.

Add new oil back into the bike. It takes almost a gallon. 3100mL, I think. Keep an eye on the oil level window when you get more than 3 quarts in. When you have close to the right amount in, close the fill plug and crank the engine. You don't have to start it all the way or let in run more than a few seconds. The oil light will be on. This is normal. It will take a bit for the new oil to work its way through the lines and give a proper pressure. Let the oil settle and check the level. Add as needed. Crank again and let it settle. Check. Add as needed. Like I said before it takes almost a gallon.

There ya go. I think most of this info is right. ;)
 
Just make sure that the bike is setting level to insure that you get all of the old oil out. Like FLCN said remove the right side fairing and there it all is. It is pretty easy. When you goto pull the filter just put something under it to keep the oil off the header. If you don't it smells really bad for a while. :laugh:
 
Bullet, I suggest getting the 600 mile service done from an auth. suzuki dealer....you never know how this may impact your warantee.
It's a very good idea to change oil after hitting the first 100 miles but to be perfectly honest Suzuki suggests 600 miles cause they want to give you a chance to work every gear at different RPM's and different heat conditions and durations...changing the oil this soon wont have given the metal used in these kind of very high RPM machines a chance to really wear down or smoothen (is that a word ?)....I say wait atlest 300 miles and ride in all gears slow to fast (dont exceed the break in suggested RPM)
Just my .02 cents...I changed my oil at 300 - 320 and then again from a Zuki dealer at 600...then at 2000 (found metal in there again) needless to say I started really riding my bike after the 600 mile service...

FLCN ....great detail Dude :D
 
Great tips, folks. Especially from FLCN72!

danny, I do plan on letting the dealer do the 600 mile service, if for nothing more than warranty purposes. ;)

As for waiting, I just can't stand the thought of leaving all those metal particles in there. I don't figure changing the oil will have that much effect on break-in unless I go with synthetic. I figure that there wouldn't be that much difference in the original oil and the oil I'll put in other than the absence of the metal particles. I'm not going with synthetics until I have at least 4000 miles or so.

Besides, I don't follow the factory break-in doctrine either. My busa hasn't exactly been pampered during the first hundred miles. I break all my toys in like I intend to use them after they're broke in. Seems to work well. All my Stangs, Camaros and Trans Ams have ran great and posted better numbers on the 1/4 than others that I know were broken in easy. Break-in may not have been the reason they ran so well but I certainly can't see where it hurt my toys at all.

My last toy, a 1998 LS1 Trans Am, turned 500 miles on the way to the Atlanta Dragway to be thrashed good and proper. When it had 2000 miles it pulled more RWHP on Atlanta Chassis Dyno's drum than any other stock LS1 F-body they had pulled. It pulled better numbers than some LS1 'vettes had on the same dyno.

I am riding the busa to my abilities, not to the factory break-in suggestions. I haven't done all it can do by any means but I don't baby it either. I guarantee that if my riding abilities were up to it I would ride my busa to it's limits right now.

I've just never seen any data that supports that break-in theory. I guess that's a subject for another thread though, huh?   ;)
 
If you want to change the oil before the first service at the dealer, I say go for it. But at anything less than 600 miles, you can probably get away with changing just the oil and not bothering with the filter until that first dealer service. You wouldn't even have to remove the plastics for an oil-only change.
 
That's a thought. I'll see what the oil looks like (how much metal) and go from there. If there is lots of metal in the oil already I'll prolly pull the fairing and swap the filter, too. We'll see how it goes.

Wish I had my Pit Bulls already. They're on order. Might wait to do the oil change after they get here. I figure it'd make it easier. All I have now is the side stand. I have the Pit Bull Rear & Fork Lift stands coming directly from Pit Bull.
 
OK.  Changing the oil.

Let the bike run for a few minutes to get things nice and hot.  Burning yourself is part of the process and the hot oil will come out faster.  Put the bike on a rear stand.  Or the center stand.  Or use the side stand if you have nothing else.

You need to remove the right side plastic.  Start with all the easy to find aluminum hex bolts.  Let's see... I think there's three along the turn signal area, three more along the bottom front, one on the bottom rear, two large bolts in the middle, one under the throttle.  Then there is a plastic retainer also under the throttle.  Then get the push-pin rivet out of the inner fairing above and behind the front wheel -- near right side of the radiator.  Start by pulling the lower back of the plastic up.  Pull it loose from the knob near the tank, but be careful that the front section doesn't come loose suddenly and scratch the nearby paint.  Carefully work the front loose.  And pull towards the rear to avoid scratching the headlight fairing.  Bending is OK, but do not force.

Under the engine, between the exhaust pipes is the oil drain plug.  Put something that will hold about a gallon of oil under there.  Remove the plug.  It has standard threads -- left to loosen -- right to tighten.  The plug has a magnet built into it.  Check it for big metal bits.  And loosen the plug above the oil level window -- the add oil plug.

Along the front of the engine is the oil filter.  Black cylinder, between the header pipes and the engine case, pointed forward.  Once the oil has slowed to a drip from the drain plug, remove the filter.  Might need a strap wrench for this.  I use a rubber strap wrench from a grocery store used for opening stubborn pickle jars and the like.

Wipe the openings to both the drain plug and oil filter with a clean cloth.  Using some clean oil, wet the gasket on the new oil filter and install it.  Run it down tight.  Reinstall the drain plug.  Those are aluminum threads there, so do not strip the threads by getting things too tight.  Snug is enough.

Add new oil back into the bike.  It takes almost a gallon.  3100mL, I think.  Keep an eye on the oil level window when you get more than 3 quarts in.  When you have close to the right amount in, close the fill plug and crank the engine.  You don't have to start it all the way or let in run more than a few seconds.  The oil light will be on.  This is normal.  It will take a bit for the new oil to work its way through the lines and give a proper pressure.  Let the oil settle and check the level.  Add as needed.  Crank again and let it settle.  Check.  Add as needed.  Like I said before it takes almost a gallon.

There ya go.  I think most of this info is right.   ;)
I'm printing this one for the hubby! Give him something to do so he can be "involved" with my Busa project! You know, some bonding time!

Thanks!!!

:bounce:
 
bullet...if you've dunnit already...cool.....if ya haven't I've got a tip or 2, 4 ya....lemme know....
 
Except for the floating aluminum... I put a set of VERY strong magnets on the oil filter... I will take them off after about 3k miles.... The Steel I worry about, not the aluminum. :devil:

I let the dealer change the oil w/ the first service, at about 2 weeks I was over 600 miles. Did the Service at 800, was as soon as I could get it in. Not quite 2 months and I am pushing 3k miles... Did an "oil only" change at about 2k, saw a small amount of steel on the mag plug. When I get my Pit Bull this week I'll do the key and other BS that requires the stand.
 
bullet...if you've dunnit already...cool.....if ya haven't I've got a tip or 2, 4 ya....lemme know....
Hey Rubber, I haven't done it yet. I worked all weekend. Well, ok, I was on the clock all weekend. ;) Also, my Pit Bull stands shipped last week so I will probably have them tomorrow. I was kinda waiting for them to do the oil change. I'll prolly do it Tuesday or Friday. I'd appreciate any tips you can throw my way.
 
Except for the floating aluminum... I put a set of VERY strong magnets on the oil filter...  I will take them off after about 3k miles....  The Steel I worry about, not the aluminum. :devil:

I let the dealer change the oil w/ the first service, at about 2 weeks I was over 600 miles.  Did the Service at 800, was as soon as I could get it in.  Not quite 2 months and I am pushing 3k miles...  Did an "oil only" change at about 2k, saw a small amount of steel on the mag plug.  When I get my Pit Bull this week I'll do the key and other BS that requires the stand.
Well, I'd worry more about steel, too. The thing is, I read somewhere about how the aluminum particles are worked onto the surfaces and actually leave a coating, reducing oil clearances. May be BS, may not be. I'd rather play it safe. The magnet ain't a bad idea, by the way. Thanks. :)
 
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