Time To Change the Oil...


Re-Recycled, Busa-Less...
Donating Member
Any recommendations? I am meaning Busa Specific Tips.

I got the basics of the oil change down.  You know, Make sure the oil is warm, thin film of oil on the threads and gasket of the new filter. Don't strip the drain plug.  Dont over tighten filter.

I bought Silkolene 10W40 Pro-4 Full Synthetic.  Did my home work and this is supposed to be some of the best stuff on the market.  Damn well better be for $11 bucks a quart.  

Check it out...  Silkolene Pro 4

I also went ahead and got a filter wrench while I was at it.  On the way home I will get a funnel, and a drip pan.  

She' got 2200 miles on her and a full belly of Suzuki oil...Cover me Men, I am going in...

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I found a great oil catch pan at Walmart. It holds about 5-6 quarts of oil and has a very low profile. It even has the screen so you won't drop your bolt in the oil and a pour spout to empty the used stuff into a container.
I found a great oil catch pan at Walmart.  It holds about 5-6 quarts of oil and has a very low profile.  It even has the screen so you won't drop your bolt in the oil and a pour spout to empty the used stuff into a container.
Cool Thanks, I will swing by despite my loathing...For a funnel and Drip pan I imagine Wally World will be hard to beat...

Oh and here's some more Propaganda For Silkolene...

I thought it was an interesting read.

Oh and will the bike drain properly if it is on the rear stand? And is it OK to warm the engine while it's sitting on just the rear stand? Anyone know?
Everytime I have changed mine it has been on the rear stand.  No problems draining.  I've been using Mobil 1, but I may check out the Silkolene.

I have ran my engine a few times while on the rear stand with no problems.  

Good luck

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Get something to place over the pipes to devert the oil around them. Other wise it collects on top of them and smells really bad when it gets hot. :mad:
Make sure you get a new crush washer for the drain plug.
Being on the rear/ centerstand is no problem.
Thanks for the tips folks. Crush washer huh? I'll have to pisk one up.

I got the oil capture type drain pan at Wally world along with a couple of funnels. Oh and a box of Golf Balls. I got the square pan for $5.49, it should make the proccess a lot easier.

Anyhoo, I amnot going to change anything tonight, the Temp suddenly shot up and the Humidity skyrocketed, it's pretty muggy in the Garage right now, I still need to get an Air conditioner installed out there.

Thanks for thereminder about the pipes, I would have completely forgotten.

Here's a thought though, is it neccessary to completly remove the entire right side panel and lowers? Or is there a good (Non-Harmful) cheat out there?

I know a freakin oil change is the ultimate in basic here but to be honest I haven't changed the oil on a bike since my katana back around 95'. Mostly I just do not want to end up with a damaged drain plug or screwing up my plastics by being a schmuck....
I had to only remove the side panel Revlis...just find a spot for it BEFORE you pull it off or you'll just stand there thinking "where in the hell do I sit this?"

Oh...and there's a very small clip under the cowl in front that I missed when I took the panel off the first time (had me playing "what's this part" in my garage)...it's a small black peg that I missed...found up above the tire...

Have fun...sorry I'm missing out on a night with Revlis and Lilah! :tounge:

When you re-install the filter, the spec to tighten it is, once it makes contact with the motor - 2 more full turns! Also, Sport Rider magazine did a great 2 issue article on motor oil for motorcycles. I think the first month was August - you should check it out - the info may even be on line. It was very informative and covered the major brands.

Yeah I have those issues, I gotta go dig em up, i do not remember if Silkolene was included. Though I remember being pretty sure I was going to use Amsoil. We'll see what happens with this Silkolene stuff though. From the sounds of their propaganda I should be able to "feel" and most certainly I should hear a difference. I have heard from a few other members in the past that switching to synthetic made a difference in several ways, smoother shifting, less engine racket etc. We'll see I guess, but I am a skeptic at heart so I'll be looking for holes in the Silkolene story line here.
Dude, please tell me that you didn't go 2200 miles with the break-in oil that came in it from Suzuki!?! :eek: I changed out my factory oil at a little over 200 miles and it was CRUD!

You can change the oil and filter without completely removing the fairing. Just take it loose at the bottom and swing it out enough to get your arm and filter wrench in there. Someone here suggested covering the exhaust with aluminum foil when changing the filter. It worked exellent for me. Can't think of anything better. Just tear off a chunk and form it around your pipes from the top. It stays in place and the heat from the warm pipe (from warming oil to drain properly) doesn't affect it.

Let it drain a WHILE. When you think it's done and just dripping, put the plug back in finger tight and wait an hour or so and take it back out. See how much comes out then. You'll see why I usually let mine drain while I'm doing something else.

Again, I hope this is not literally the first time your oil has been changed since new. That's scary after reading all the oil tests in the mags. I hope you just meant that it's the first time YOU changed it. Please tell me that's the case...
Oh and will the bike drain properly if it is on the rear stand?  And is it OK to warm the engine while it's sitting on just the rear stand?  Anyone know?
It's fine to warm the engine/oil with the busa on the rear stand. At least that was the popular opinion when I was asking these same questions for my first oil change.
BulletRain..Bro, I know that with my stunning good looks and Fashion sense it is easy to just take me for nothing but a pretty face... :eek: But Gimmie a little credit...Hell no, I had the oil changed by the dealer at 600 miles, so the oil I am replacing has only been in there for about 1600 miles...

No sweat bro, Just giving you a hard time. I am planning to follow the manufacterers service schedule as a minimum. But I may see about stretching this High Dollar Synthetic Busa Blood to the full 3K miles...
I just KNEW I was taking your post the wrong way, but it was kinda confusing. Or, maybe I'm just easily confruzed. Anyway, I know how you feel about Lilah. I refused to believe that you ran the factory oil for 2200 miles before changing it. For a second I thought, "If this post means that Rev hasn't changed out the factory oil, someone has stolen his log-in info! It couldn't be my bro, Rev!" ;) I actually double checked your name and stats beside the post to make sure someone hadn't registered a similar name and used the same avatar. :D

One last thing. USE A TORQUE WRENCH FOR THE DRAIN BOLT. I guarantee you'll overtighten it if you don't. You might not strip it, but you will overtighten it. Don't know how many times you could overtighten it without stripping it but I don't want either of us to be the ones to find out the hard way. I'm sure you've got that base covered as well, knowing you. I guess that suggestion is more for those who haven't already done their homework on this. ;)
You think a "Click" type wrench will do? I was actually figuring on just giving it the dad style torque tighten. You know spin till it stops then "Snug it up" You make a good point though, I mean 16lbs? Maybe if I tighten it with my left hand only...
Maybe if I tighten it with my left hand only...
Yeah... maybe... if you're like THIS GUY! :laugh: :D

Seriously, the first time I changed my oil I didn't have a torque wrench. I used the snug it thing. Then, on the second oil change I used a torque wrench (click type). When the wrench clicked it scared me how much I had "oversnugged" it the first time! I thought that surely I had just bumped the torque wrench or something and got a false click. So, I broke it with a socket again and retorqued to spec. Same thing. I don't know how badly I over tightened the first time but I know it was considerably tighter than the torque wrench made it. I'd avoid the run up 'n snug method at all costs on this bolt, if no other, bro. Just my $.02... ;)
'Train, that's twice you've used that photo today in a post. What's going on? :)