I'm proud of my right side and I'm just showin' it off, man! 
Time To Change the Oil...
- Thread starter Revlis
- Start date
Heh, OK So I am assuming that the Aluminum foil is to keep oil from leaking onto the header when replacing the oil filter right? The Drain plug is free and clear.
Recommended oil change is every 4000 miles and filter every 12000. I thought that was interesting. So I change the filter this time when going to synthetic and at the rate I am putting miles on the bike in about 2 years or so I will need to change the filter...
Thanks again for the foil tip again...
Recommended oil change is every 4000 miles and filter every 12000. I thought that was interesting. So I change the filter this time when going to synthetic and at the rate I am putting miles on the bike in about 2 years or so I will need to change the filter...
Thanks again for the foil tip again...
I guess it goes along with your signature!I'm proud of my right side and I'm just showin' it off, man!
Yep, the drain plug is dead center between the pipes. Nothing needed there. The foil goes on the head pipes down below the filter. Works great. I'd gladly give props to whomever recommended this trick to me if the search engine here didn't SUCK. I think it was Ninja, though. Could be wrong...
As for the factory recommendations on the miles/oil thing, I've just never been able to let my toys go that long, especially if I run 'em hard. The elements in filters can break down and send little particles through the system... not good. Also, the oil starts to break down and become acidic/corrosive after the first time running the engine. I just can't stand the thoughts of that crap sitting in my engine for very long. I honestly think that changing oil OFTEN makes a bigger difference than which oil you use as long as you use a reputable brand.
I changed 'train's oil at just over 200 and then again at 600 miles. The factory oil came out dirty as shid at 200. The oil that came out at 600 wasn't that bad, but still had some slight sludge from break-in. I figure I'll change again at 1000 and go from there. May change every 400-500 miles until I go synthetic and then maybe every 1000... except when I race or run 'er particularly hard. On those occasions I'll change the oil soon after the fact.
My schedule may be a little radical and maybe even overkill, but it gives me piece of mind and I can't think of a single way that it could actually harm anything except my wallet.
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Rev: do yourself a favour and get a Suzuki specific oil filter wrench if you don't already have one (I know you said you picked up a wrench but I didn't see you say if it was generic or not)... makes getting the filter on and off a breeze as it has a 3/8" drive on it... mine cost about $10 CDN! Oh, and use only the OEM filter.. do not use K&N or anybody elses because if the valve doesn't open when it's supposed to or opens prematurely, it can be baaaad news (you could starve the engine of oil, as an example).
Yessir I have a Suzuki Specific Filter Cap Thingi and an OEM Filter. So I think I am good to go, I am going to try to get right home tonight and change the oil, I am taking tommorrow off so I should have plenty of ride time (Weather Permitting) to scrub in my new rear, it's still looking pretty green.
So, um, how'd it go, bro? 
Any problems?
Any problems?
No Problems other than cowardice... I'm sorry but I am just not used to using "Force" on a bike. So I get all the bolts and fasteners off no sweat...BUT... The mysterious freakin HOOK as mentioned in the service manual was kicking my ass for a good 20 minutes before I decided to apply a little verticle grunt... It just doesn't seem like there should be any force involved. Especially with the Oil filter, I mean the last time I wrenched on anything on a regular basis the rule of thumb was hand tight plus 1/4 turn for that oil filter.So, um, how'd it go, bro?
Anyway, No problems, foil worked great BTW. Freaky thing is Silkolene has a real nice bright red color to it. So Lilah is freshly cleaned has a belly full of good Synthetic oil and will be waiting for me tomorrow, assuming weather cooperates. I'll let you all know if there is a noticable performance difference.
You talkin' about the "hook" that holds the inner fairing to the frame by the tank? I really thought you'da had Lilah nekkid before now.
About the filter... It's so fine threaded that two turns really don't move it far at all. It seems excessive compared to the old automotive filter threads/specs for sure, but when you realize just how fine threaded the busa filter is, it's good and snug but it really isn't that tight.
The red color should burn out of the oil pretty quickly. In one of the magazine articles on oil they actually had pics of the different colored oils in pans before and after being heated/used. Not much of the pretty colors left, if any at all, after a little use.
I'm curious to see how much difference synthetic makes in the clutch feel and in shifting. I don't figure there's enough power between oils to actually register on the SOTP dyno. Could be wrong, though. I was once before.
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About the filter... It's so fine threaded that two turns really don't move it far at all. It seems excessive compared to the old automotive filter threads/specs for sure, but when you realize just how fine threaded the busa filter is, it's good and snug but it really isn't that tight.
The red color should burn out of the oil pretty quickly. In one of the magazine articles on oil they actually had pics of the different colored oils in pans before and after being heated/used. Not much of the pretty colors left, if any at all, after a little use.
I'm curious to see how much difference synthetic makes in the clutch feel and in shifting. I don't figure there's enough power between oils to actually register on the SOTP dyno. Could be wrong, though. I was once before.
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I like your thinking.A radical oil change is buying a new bike every 3000 miles.
OK, I gotta tell you all the Silkolene makes a HUGE difference... I'll Start a new thread to go into that.
Also, apparantly I do not have the Busa specific oil filter tool, I worked around however by using a 3/8's extender to get to the other side of the pipes but of course that meant I had to remove the Oil cooler surround. Over simple job though took me a little while.
Also, apparantly I do not have the Busa specific oil filter tool, I worked around however by using a 3/8's extender to get to the other side of the pipes but of course that meant I had to remove the Oil cooler surround. Over simple job though took me a little while.
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