Oil change questions

[Deputy]

Doing my first oil change and I have questions...

1)Do I have to take off the fairings on BOTH sides to get off the filter and take out the drain plug or just the right (?) side?

2) Should the oil be checked with the bike resting on the sidestand or at a "level" position where it is standing upright?
Owners manual says on sidestand but service manual says "keep bike upright".

Thanks in advance,
Dep

 

[BulletTrain]

Just the right (yer right if yer sittin' on 'er) fairing to get to the filter. You can get the plug out without removing either one.

And I think you check the oil with the bike level. If you have it leaned to the left on the stand and fill it to that line on the right I think you'd have way too much oil in there. I fill and check mine sittin' level on the Pit Bulls. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone will be along to straighten me out shortly.  

 

[Deputy]

Thanks Bullet! I appreciate the feedback! Sure gonna make things a lot easier. The owners manual just says " see remove fairings".

Dep

 

[BulletTrain]

No problem, broh.

 

[black2003]

You can't go wrong by doing the job yourself! I will certainly take care to bring the bike to the dealer the less I can. Those guys are not always careful with our babies.

To check oil level, I usualy use a mirror to see the oil window when I sit on the bike upright. It saves you to disturb your girlfriend when you want to do a check up before take off!!

 

[Deputy]

Oops...two more questions....
1)Can I get a normal spanner wrench on the oil filter or should I buy one of those end cap versions?

2) Manual says two turns from the point the filter hits the base. Holy moley! That seems like an AWFUL lot!!!
I usully just "snugg it up" by hand on the cars and Harley I change, and even then I don't go bananas with it.
Sure appreciate the info from you guys!

Dep

 

[babuski]

Yea....I wondered about that too....2 full turns seems like a lot. I got a new pit bull stand and am ready to do an oil change after having the dealer do the 600 mile and 4000 mile inspections. Time to learn how to tinker. Anyone know about this oil filter stuff?

And do you have to torque down the oil filler nut to specifications or is just a good hard turn enough?

 

[EAKbusa]

It sounds like a lot but it is correct. You will see when you tighten it. It is a very fine thread so two turns is not that far "in & out" wise.

And I think you mean a strap wrench not a spanner wrench. An endcap wrench is best to use but it is not cheap. I hate to admit it but I use a large channel lock wrench and put a rag underneath the jaws to prevent scratching the filter when I tighten it but be warned as you can easily crush the filter body if you are not very careful.

 

[Deputy]

EAKbusa: Yep...meant strap wrench
Holy cripes!...a channel locks is my LAST resort (short of pounding a screwdriver THROUGH the filter) to REMOVE a filter. No way I'd trust myself using one to install it. Thanks for the thread info...a fine thread would explain the 2 turns.
I don't plan on a SUZUKI end cap wrench. Money tree died last week
I thought about taking the new filter to Wallyworld or an auto parts store and matching it up with a car endcap wrench.
I figure ONE of them must fit it (I hope!).

Dep

 

[Johnnycheese]

last I checked the Suzuki wrench was less than 10.00 how cheap are you?

 

[Deputy]

last I checked the Suzuki wrench was less than 10.00 how cheap are you?

Well I'm not THAT cheap.
I'm just used to getting reamed out by Harley and automatically assumed it would cost $25 or more. Wonder if Suzuki has them in stock or if they are available online?

Dep

 

[Deputy]

Found the filter (Emgo 10 micron) and wrench at Dennis Kirk. Filter was $9 and wrench was $8. Guess I am a cheap SOB

Dep

 

[babuski]

So.....do you torque down that oil drain bolt to specs or just tighten like heck?

 

[Deputy]

So.....do you torque down that oil drain bolt to specs or just tighten like heck?

16.5 ft lbs isn't much torque. Think I'll use my "built-in" arm torque wrench

Dep

 

[BulletTrain]

So.....do you torque down that oil drain bolt to specs or just tighten like heck?

Remember, it's screwin' into an aluminum oil pan. If you "tigthen like heck" and over tighten it you could strip it out the drain hole threads. In my opnion that wouldn't be a good thing...

 

[Deputy]

Got aluminum pans on most all my stuff...I'm used to it

Dep

 

[Johnnycheese]

Got aluminum pans on most all my stuff...I'm used to it

Dep

That's what you think
The Busa pan thread are only 3/4 the way around

 

[Deputy]

Got aluminum pans on most all my stuff...I'm used to it

Dep

That's what you think
The Busa pan thread are only 3/4 the way around

HUH?

3/4 around what?
More importantly...is there an o-ring/gasket/washer on the dran bolt that will need to be replaced? Nothing in the service manual about that.

Dep

 

[Johnnycheese]

around the pan
no oring

 

[flipz34]

There is a crush washer on the drain plug that should be replaced. Supposed to help you keep from stripping out the oil pan. It's about an 80 cent part at the dealer. That's if they go by msrp in the Suzuki price book. You guys know the mark up a lot of dealers have for busa parts.