The right side exhaust APPEARS to be closer to the edge of the tire than the left does it not?
From the pic you posted above, they look about the same distance from center but the muffler hangs from a slightly different point on the LH side than it does on the RH side. Look at the muffler hanger on each side. The RH mufler hangs closer to the center of the muffler and the LH hangs from a point way to the side of the muffler.
I don't have the stock exhaust so I can't tell you what it should look like. Sorry.
Was thinking on Constands side lift OR Pit Bull front and rear stands?
I'm not familiar with the Constands but it looks very much like a Bursig and people like those very well. Thing I don't care for is that the Bursig may require a bracket to be bolted to the bike in order to use the stand. I'd rather not carry that extra weight if the swingarm pivot alone can do the same thing.
Personally, I think the Abba Skylift would be well worth the extra couple hundred bucks.
Pit Bull is always a great choice but go with a Pit Bull front that converts from steering stem pivot to fork lift. If you just get one or the other, the steering pivot stand will cover all jobs. The fork lift is much easier for most jobs but you can't remove forks with that or measure full extension of forks for suspension sag adjustment.
Then as follows or anyone have more important suggestions?
1 Coolant flush/Change
2 Fresh filters, plugs and oil ... Rotella T6
3 Fork service proper springs (was thinking GP Cycles ?
4 Fresh brake/clutch fluid
5 Overall inspection with fairings removed
Sounds like a good plan. I have been using Rotella T6 in the busa for a year and it's good. If you ask me, it doesn't last any longer than conventional but it's cheap and it's synthetic. I use it in both my busa and my 14 and it lasts about 2500 miles.
If you look in the reservoir and radiator filler neck and see anything that looks like white fuzzy stuff, change the coolant. Otherwise check antifreeze strength and leave it at that. Drain and flush when you switch to an aftermarket full system exhaust since you will need to remove the radiator anyway.
Brakes same idea. If you dont really need to crack those bleeders, don't do it. It's wear on the threads and they often seep for a bit which is a paint/plastic damage risk. If the fluid looks like crap, just wick as much up out of the reservoir as you can and refill it. That is most of the fluid. If you feel you have air in the system or if you go to SS lines, then you gotta bleed.
as you probably know, busa brakes are adequate but not the greatest.
Ride the bike before you do anything with the suspension. I'm 6' 2" and 200 lbs and the stock suspension has done very well for me as set from the dealership. My 08 has ~11000 miles and the suspension is still as good as when I first rode it.
If you change plugs, I would also do a compression test. Keep a record every time you change plugs.
If yo have any throttle play, adjust it as close to 0 as possible. there is supposed to be hrottle play but I think it is safer with none....like brakes that grab instantly are easier to control for me...unfortunately that is a lot more work to change than the throttle play.
then this may explain the discrepancy !! Enjoy your motorcycle bro , and take care !! 
