New Air Box Mod???

V

vin

Registered
Let me start out by saying that I would love to be able to put a full Big Bird Exhaust, cams, stacks, Teka programmer, etc. on my nike. I just cannot afford it at this time. So i have relegated myself to performing "at home" mods, trying to squeeze more preformance from a basically stock bike. I am an F16 mech by nature, and though I have a real good grasp on things like air flow I am in no way a professional bike mech. So, this is how the whole super mini air box mod came about. I drilled my stock exhausts (6 holes up front and 9 out back). I tried the 'marble mod" but it caused my rpm to flux 300-500 at idle. So that went out the door. I did notice slightly better performance when I drilled out the stock cans, still there was just soemthing not right about the bike's performance. Well, last night I decided to look into the air box mod. I went to this website (hayabusa.org) and began to research the various air box topics. Even the small air box mod seemed too much for a bike with "stock" cans. I still felt that the intake/exhaust ratio could be improved slightly, so I began my own mod. What the hell... at worse I would be purchasing a new air box on ebay. So I left the solenoid/flapper plate assembly in tact. I drilled 5 7/8" holes just aft of the flapper (ensuring that the holes integrated the filter area)... and then proceded to put it all back together. I rode the bike just s little today (approx 60 miles). Holy crap batman! I couldn't believe the new found acceleration rate on this thing! I have heard that others are experiencing less torque at lower rpm's (with the standard air box mod), I am expereiencing increased torque and power at all settings. Sounds crazy to just stumble upon, but it worked. Sorry no pics, but if you can wrench at all you should be able to understand this.
 
Hmmm, I may have to try a small experiment with the drill. If the mod sucks it's not completely irreversable.
 
Thats what I figured... If I didnt like it I could always plug the holes with some aluminum tape or something. This worked thoough... real well...
 
Nice idea, I also have modified stock cans with 3/4" perforated glass packs inside, about the same as slip-ons with race baffles.I may try this. If I don't like it I can always epoxy the holes in.I have a big appreciation for good home brewed mods taht refine a stock bike.
 
Opps, sorry guys that was 1 3/4" baffle not 3/4" my busa would be running really crappy if I went with that diameter, LOL.
 
I considered removing the flap, so at first I disconnected the flap and rode the bike around a bit. With the flap disconnected There seems to be a lag at low speed that is not present when the flap is connected. Maybe it has soemthing to do with the holes. I'm thinking that the holes are sufficient enough to provide extra air at mid and high speed (for a stocker), but maybe the flap still supplements the damand at low speeds??? Who knows... what I tried works for the setup that I am using...
 
Please send some pics also what head pipe are you running the reason i ask is i have a stock header with yosh r22 slip onns, tre, pcIII, bmc filter and removed pair valve I tried unplugging flapper vaccum and capping it off and when i rode the bike the idle would shoot up to 2,000 rpms at idle. any ideals?
 
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