Need some quick help, org member stuck with problems

His 2Bros Juicebox hasn't been hooked up since two weeks before the Spring '11 Bash. He was hooking the negative Juicebox lead to the positive side of the battery when his bike wouldn't start.

My bike started up from his battery with my ECU. My old OEM battery is at Colton's house on a battery tender and I'll be back out there after work to see if my bike will start with it. My Motobatt is only 4 months old and I think I may have shorted it out internally, but it's showing 10.40 volts. The OEM battery was showing 7.40 volts before putting it on the battery tender.

I'll be taking Colton's rear section off after work and checking all his fuses and doing nearly the same meap I checked on mine. We'll have to see. I truly feel crappy his bike won't start after attempting to help me with mine.

I want to give a public THANK YOU to Colton and his buddy Paul for picking me and my bike up when I was stranded. You guys are true friends. THANKS! :bowdown: :thumbsup:
 
So, putting my seat back on last night 50 miles from home, I didn't get it straight and sparks everywhere! No dash no power.

Could I have internally fried my new motobatt?

Colton's battery fired my bike right up tonight... BB then looked at me like, "whats up? Where have you been? I just had a bad dream like I died and you were trying to revive me".

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Did you find and repair the wiring that you damaged? That's first. If they look pinched pull on them at the pinch to make sure they aren't broken inside the insulation. Seperate and check that the insulation is intact too. If you reversed polarity back into any of the electronics or ECU who knows what could have been damaged.

Same thing with reversing the polarity on the juice box backfeeding 12 vdc thru the fuel injection to the ECU/electronics.

7 to 10 vdc won't start a bike. Neither will a battery at 12 vdc if that reading is taken under no load conditions. Put a load on it and it will drop several more volts.
 
Pardini, is there any way I can get a hold of you to talk to you, or have you get a hold of me?

I am going to be driving for nearly 3 hours today picking up a truck just to drive back and load the bike up to take it to the dealership if I can't figure this problem out.

Dealership is going to be expensive, but if I can't get this problem fixed solo (or with .org help) then I am going to have to have it looked at.

anyone is willing to PM me for some contact information, or my number is listed above.

At this point, it would be beneficial to me to nearly offer a reward for helping troubleshoot my bike, just because the stealership will charge me nearly $100.00 to do that part alone anyhow :( :banghead:
 
okay one more run down of what is going on:

key in ignition, battery hooked up

key turned to ON

fuel pump cycles, all lights and dash work

clutch and starter button----> immediate short click followed by nothing, dash going blank until starter button is released.

battery is hooked up, I took off the juice box and went straight in with the oem wiring to injectors, no change in behavior.

fuse on the relay (under tail-section) is good.

battery shows about 12.2v on voltmeter at standing- will check voltage under load now.

Colton
 
12.2V standing on the battery is a dead battery. Sounds like you got fried cells or need a charge.
 
Drew took the voltmeter, cant get a reading while under load.

going up to autozone to buy one, and see what they might think about the situation.
 
Went to Colton's tonight. He had a "new" battery on the charger when I got there. When he got home, he tried to crank it and to me it "sounds" like the starter is getting what seems like full power, but it isn't turning. He said he attempted to start the bike twice before I got there and the starter turned, but the bike failed to start.

Maybe tomorrow we should try to push start it down his (sloping) driveway...
 
colton did you try to trace the wires? any luck after we talked? you sound like you have a short and starter is not getting enough juice to roll it. ie shorting out to frame or something
 
The starter maybe jammed. The windings could shorted to ground. Would be a good idea to check and confirm you have a good ground connection from the battery to the frame too.
 
... Before leaving on BB (now fixed), I thought about small things to check. Sometimes when your computer has been running a long time, it needs to be restarted. I had Colton unplug the ECU and turn the key on, then off (but not attempting to start it). After about five minutes, he plugged the ECU back in and ........ puuuurrrrrrrrrrrr! Instant Joy! We then rode to get ice cream. :cheerleader: :beerchug: :thumbsup:

This thread = Officially Closed
 
So, the fix action was a hard reset of the ECU?


Yes.

Colton and another buddy tried to push start it a few times the day before, no joy.
We were able to put the bike in gear and rock it forward and back, in order to ensure the motor would turn and wasn't locked up.

It seemed like there was a glitch in the system somewhere. I checked the fuses three times and all were good. I changed the ignition 30A relay fuse with a new one, just in case. I checked all the electric plugs for warping, oxidation, or any other irregularity, but they were all clean and in factory condition. I checked the condition of all the wiring by hand and visually, and all of them didn't appear to be warped, melted, or pinched. None of the wires were touching the frame, so none could have been shorting out. :banghead:

An odd situation for sure. Apparently, something in the ECU was glitched and the ECU just needed to be unplugged and plugged back in.
 
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