Morne
- Thread starter Morne
- Start date
Hey, bro...I personally do not know the answer to your question...however, if after a period of time no one here steps up to help, I will pose your situation to my mechanic (at the Suzuki Dealership).
There are some infinitely qualified people here on the board, and I'm certain you'll get some help, but in the interim...
Good luck!
...and
to the .oRg!
There are some infinitely qualified people here on the board, and I'm certain you'll get some help, but in the interim...
Good luck!
...and
to the .oRg!
Hey, bro...I personally do not know the answer to your question...however, if after a period of time no one here steps up to help, I will pose your situation to my mechanic (at the Suzuki Dealership).
There are some infinitely qualified people here on the board, and I'm certain you'll get some help, but in the interim...
Good luck!
...and
Can I ride it like this or will it do more damage???
Once you get movement in the rivits, they only get worse. I've replaced more than one that became loose. One was replaced by Suzuki under warranty but usually they last long enough to be out of warranty before becoming noticeably loose. Replace the rotor with OEM. If you replace OEM with aftermarked, be sure to replace both rotors! 
loose buttons are a bad thing unless you've got full floating rotors which the OE rotors are not. You can replace the buttons and se if thise fixes things. Make sure the run out on the rotors are still in spec first.
What kind of ridding do you do?
What kind of ridding do you do?
rusheriv
Registered
I'm no expert but I'd guess that your calipers are in need of a good cleaning or rebuild. Uneven pad pressures or dragging pads can cause excessive heat buildup and warp the rotors, loosening the rivets.
Were the new wave rotors tightened in pattern and torqued? If not they may have warped when tightened. Were new pads installed with the new rotors? Rotors and pads should be treated as a set. If you change the rotors you should put in new pads. If you put in new pads you should inspect the rotors for imperfections and warpage (replace when needed).
I'd start with inspecting and a good cleaning of the calipers (all 3), they've probably never been cleaned proper. Check for leakage and pitting on the piston. Once cleaned the pistons should all travel evenly when brake is applied. Next would be to check the rotor for warpage. The runout for stock rotors is 0.30mm (0.012 in).
Now that you've got your calipers cleaned and the pistons all working together and you've checked the rotor for warpage it's a good practice to put some fresh pads on there. If the pistons were sticking or the rotor was warped then chances are the pads were ruined.
I hope this helps and good luck with your repairs.
Were the new wave rotors tightened in pattern and torqued? If not they may have warped when tightened. Were new pads installed with the new rotors? Rotors and pads should be treated as a set. If you change the rotors you should put in new pads. If you put in new pads you should inspect the rotors for imperfections and warpage (replace when needed).
I'd start with inspecting and a good cleaning of the calipers (all 3), they've probably never been cleaned proper. Check for leakage and pitting on the piston. Once cleaned the pistons should all travel evenly when brake is applied. Next would be to check the rotor for warpage. The runout for stock rotors is 0.30mm (0.012 in).
Now that you've got your calipers cleaned and the pistons all working together and you've checked the rotor for warpage it's a good practice to put some fresh pads on there. If the pistons were sticking or the rotor was warped then chances are the pads were ruined.
I hope this helps and good luck with your repairs.
Last edited:
celticBandit
Registered
I had this problem on my Bandit12 a couple of years back but it was caused by my disc lock. The pin on the lock was too fat fo the gap between the inner and outer of the disc, and over time it got loose. I always put the lock on the back wheel now.
mike04busa
Registered
Alot of rotor's I've seen with the rivit's are a little loose after some time. My girl's 675 was like that with 2k mile's on it and it has 10k on it now and they are fine. I keep burning through stock rotor's on the busa and will be on the look out for new one's before the spring.
It sound like you have a sticky caliper, the first thing to do, is make sure that the pistons of the caliper are moving!
Start by unbolting the caliper, then you want to push the pads all the way back.
Then slowing while watching the brake pads, make sure they are both moving equally, if not, the calipers need need to be either just bleed, or rebuilt!
Also inspect around the pistons to make sure that there is no debris that would hinder the pads movement!
Start by unbolting the caliper, then you want to push the pads all the way back.
Then slowing while watching the brake pads, make sure they are both moving equally, if not, the calipers need need to be either just bleed, or rebuilt!
Also inspect around the pistons to make sure that there is no debris that would hinder the pads movement!
Thanks for this. I start with the cleaning of the calipers. But I did not replaced the pads when putting on the rotors? I will replace them now when pulling the brake it feels like sponge feeling?
Thanks again you hepl me a lot
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