Lithium Ion bike batteries

Falconfixer

Registered
For those of you with a lithium battery in your bike,

How long have you had it?
Do they last?
Does it give you any trouble?

The battery in my 2016 is getting close to replacement time.
Am considering go this way fer a replacement.
 
I had a Shorai in my other bike for 11 years. It was a smaller battery than what was recomended by Shorai for that bike. It didn't crank quite as hard as the stock battery but it worked well. I let it drop below the recommended voltage (8v I think) and I think that damaged it. It didn't seem to hold a charge as well after that but kept working. The last few years, I had to charge it if the bike sat for a couple days without starting and in the last summer, it only held a sufficient charge to start for 24 hours. It was time to change it. I already have the charger.

I still use the original battery for my 2008 busa. Its working fine. I was thinking about replacing it with a Full Spectrum battery which is a little heavier and requires a different maintainer than Shorai. It's discussed at the end of this thread:


I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Shorai though. I was actually going to replace the Shorai I have in my other bike with another Shorai just like it. Too bad I wrecked that bike.
 
I , like @Mythos , really like Shorai Japanese batteries , you will also want to add their charger with your battery purchase . I run this battery on both my bikes , and have had no trouble .
Hi. I use a regular charger to keep the Li battery charged as I was told would work fine. As the charging system on the bike does not have a way to ballance the cells now does it.
 
Yesterday...
Swapped out AGM battery for Lithium (Scorpion Stinger). Chose this make/model randomly, but based on this forum thread.
As this bike is new to me, had no idea what state prev batt was in. It had no starting probs.
The bike is ridden 1 to 7 days/week, variable, but min once/wk.
This swap is a test of sorts, as I will treat the Li batt just like an AGM in terms of maint, which means very little. Interested in seeing just how much maint the Li will require. I will not be trickle-charging the Li batt, assuming current usage will provide sufficient system recharge, but that's the point of the test (As you all know, a healthy AGM can go days/weeks in between starts).

Not much tech data to share here.
  • The new Li had same dimensions as AGM: exact fit under the seat.
  • ~350 CCA
  • AGM batt: ~12 lbs. Li batt: ~2lbs
  • Charged the Li prior to install
    • Instructs say batt is shipped at 30% charge
    • About 6 hrs to bring Li batt to full charge
    • 12-hour retention test (a function of the charger)
  • Total price Li batt + charger: $202, shipped
Photos: AGM (L) and Li
View attachment 1595497
Li + Charger
View attachment 1595498

So ... 3+ yrs. No probs except it doesn't like cold weather. Below 50°, ignition on, wait about 5 mins, then start. Perfect for SoCal riding
 
I had a Shorai in my other bike for 11 years. It was a smaller battery than what was recomended by Shorai for that bike. It didn't crank quite as hard as the stock battery but it worked well. I let it drop below the recommended voltage (8v I think) and I think that damaged it. It didn't seem to hold a charge as well after that but kept working. The last few years, I had to charge it if the bike sat for a couple days without starting and in the last summer, it only held a sufficient charge to start for 24 hours. It was time to change it. I already have the charger.

I still use the original battery for my 2008 busa. Its working fine. I was thinking about replacing it with a Full Spectrum battery which is a little heavier and requires a different maintainer than Shorai. It's discussed at the end of this thread:


I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Shorai though. I was actually going to replace the Shorai I have in my other bike with another Shorai just like it. Too bad I wrecked that bike.

You have a 14 year old OEM battery that is “working fine”?
 
"What does waiting five minutes do for your battery?"

It needs warming up. At 45°, turn key and crank? Nothing if it's cold enough, or a few degrees warmer, acts like a dying battery. Read somewhere this trick. Gets the juice flowing? IDK!! But starts every time this way no matter how cold.
 
"What does waiting five minutes do for your battery?"

It needs warming up. At 45°, turn key and crank? Nothing if it's cold enough, or a few degrees warmer, acts like a dying battery. Read somewhere this trick. Gets the juice flowing? IDK!! But starts every time this way no matter how cold.

I don’t see how turning the key on warms the battery. Without the charging system doing it’s job (engine running) isn’t the battery the same, key on or off? The ‘juice’ (comes) from the battery.
 
Hi. I use a regular charger to keep the Li battery charged as I was told would work fine. As the charging system on the bike does not have a way to ballance the cells now does it.
I was told that too bro , about charging on an ordinary charger , except I think now that is bullchit , because reports the lithium batts can blow up with regular charger , overcharging . For an extra few bucks , I run the Shorai charger / tender , for a bit of piece of mind.
 
I was told that too bro , about charging on an ordinary charger , except I think now that is bullchit , because reports the lithium batts can blow up with regular charger , overcharging . For an extra few bucks , I run the Shorai charger / tender , for a bit of piece of mind.
Hi. I also have a Li charger. I just do not take 5he time to set it up as I do not use it as a tender and keep them set up all the time. I watch and keep checking the voltage.
 
I don’t see how turning the key on warms the battery. Without the charging system doing it’s job (engine running) isn’t the battery the same, key on or off? The ‘juice’ (comes) from the battery.
Great question. I didn't have the answer, but do now, courtesy this lengthy discussion from 2020, a place called Science Direct.

On my Gen 2, switching ignition to "ON" causes lights on, which means the bike is drawing current from the battery. Drawing current (or technically, current being drawn), is apparently how these batteries get warmed.

[EDIT] And now I understand why Lord Byron was a Luddite. This stuff is complicated!
 
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Below 50°, ignition on, wait about 5 mins, then start. Perfect for SoCal riding
It gets below 50° in S Cal?

You have a 14 year old OEM battery that is “working fine”?
Ay-yup. Sittin right here beside me. It's a Yuasa YXT12-BS. I've kept it on a trickle charger over winter and every year and it's been giving me perfect service since 2010 when I bought the bike. ...so I guess that's at least 11 years. We'll see how it does this summer if I ride. I'd say it's about time I change it just in case.

What does waiting five minutes do for your battery?
I heard the same thing, the dash lights and whatever else turns on with the key get the battery wound up and ready. I have noticed that if the battery draws down, a weak attempt to start seems to result in a good start on the next try. Weak attempts to start were never a problem until I let the battery drain down below 8v. If it's not at at least 12v, there's no reason to try starting because that could result in it dropping below 8v. When I first got the Shorai it sat for two months before I put it in the bike and it started the engine just fine. I think I let it sit over storage some years after and it got drained down too low. I didn't have the Shorai maintainer until I owned the battery for some time. I used a regular lead acid maintainer on it the first winter and that seemed to work fine. I got the special Shorai maintainer after I had already damaged the battery but it still worked well for me for years after that. I really did need the help of the maintainer the last few years though. Too bad I didn't get it right away. That battery might still be like new. Get teh charger if you get Shorai. Michael Paris Hueberger suggested the Full Spectrum Li battery. It's a little heavier because it has more of the "stuff" inside of it and you might need that. If you don't have a lot of electronic stuff going, a little Shorai should do the trick. Something like a nitrous system along with the normal stock electronis won't kill the battery according to the people I consulted.
 
I don’t see how turning the key on warms the battery. Without the charging system doing it’s job (engine running) isn’t the battery the same, key on or off? The ‘juice’ (comes) from the battery.
I believe it's to do with the chemistry of lithium batteries. This is from schnitz racing site:
All batteries start to lose performance below 32ºF (0ºC), and LiFePO4 batteries tend to fall off more dramatically. When the temperature of the EVO2 goes below 32ºF (0ºC) internal resistance starts to build in the battery and the amount of available amperage goes down as well. This should lower the Cold Cranking Amp rating, correct?

No. LiFePO4 batteries have the ability to build their own internal heat energy when a draw is put on the battery. This means that although if may be 0ºF (-18ºC) outside, the battery has the ability to raise its internal temperature to 58ºF (14ºC) in seconds with a 100amp draw. As the temperature rises inside the battery, internal resistance lowers and the battery performs just like it does when it is 60ºF (15ºC) outside. This means that the amount of available amperage does not change based on temperature.

So maybe without warming up the battery before attempting to start has the battery in a weakened state and can't deliver the necessary amps to crank the motor and deliver the correct voltage to electronics. I had an older ballistic battery and didn't know about the warm up procedure and noticed significantly slower starts in the winter. During the summer it sounded like I had 24v starting system.
 
only issue I have had with my Lithium battery is

While wiring my stand alone I was doing lots of key of not running stuff
all of a sudden it went from working fine to dead battery in like seconds
and it was DEAD not low

recharged and it's been fine
when doing lots of wiring
I swap to my heavy lead battery
 
I had a Shorai in my other bike for 11 years. It was a smaller battery than what was recomended by Shorai for that bike. It didn't crank quite as hard as the stock battery but it worked well. I let it drop below the recommended voltage (8v I think) and I think that damaged it. It didn't seem to hold a charge as well after that but kept working. The last few years, I had to charge it if the bike sat for a couple days without starting and in the last summer, it only held a sufficient charge to start for 24 hours. It was time to change it. I already have the charger.

I still use the original battery for my 2008 busa. Its working fine. I was thinking about replacing it with a Full Spectrum battery which is a little heavier and requires a different maintainer than Shorai. It's discussed at the end of this thread:


I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Shorai though. I was actually going to replace the Shorai I have in my other bike with another Shorai just like it. Too bad I wrecked that bike.
I like Shorai. In the early days I had one go bad and they sent me one next day air with a return label. The FedEex guy waited while I packaged the return. That battery worked for years. I would not buy a Full Spectrum right now knowing folks with failed batteries. I just pulled one out of a bike Friday that was swelled. I expect them to take care of the situation like Shorai did for me, and they may become a good company but personally I'd get Anti-Gravity. I have four of them that work well, and held their charge all winter last two years with no trickle charger.
 
Got a shorai in April of 2016 and killed it in a few weeks becasue I let the bike site without being on their charger and the small draw from my gadgets (alarm, etc) killed it. Their customer service dept. was great to me and explained that their batteries can’t sit with a small draw as long as a lead acid battery does and processed to send me a replacement and gave me a nice discount on their dedicated charger. 4 years or so later my rectifier died and I drained the battery too much and hurt it. I read their warranty info and saw that I was still in their 5 year prorated window, so called them and they took care of me. Bought a replacement at a nice discount, but have not installed It, since the busa has been mostly sitting since Covid started.
 
I plan to go with Antigravity atx12 restart. It has 360 cca and a feature that is supposed to prevent the main battery from being damaged when a draw if left on the battery. A coworker of mine has one and hasn't reported any issues so far. I have a smaller jump pack from Antigravity that went bad and the return was hassle free. I can't remember for sure if it was still within the warranty period but I want to say it was slightly over. It wouldn't take a charge so I sent them the old one and they sent me an entirely new unit, it doesn't get much better than that. I don't ride the busa much anymore so I don't think the cold weather performance will be an issue, but I will definitely turn the high beam on before starting it this time around and see if that makes a difference.
 
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