valkyriemc
Donating Member
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Haven't heard any noises but thought I would tear into the clutch and see what was up. The whole job took about an hour an half. The trick to not losing oil is to get the rear tire up on a 2x4 while on the kick stand. The right fairing comes off first to get access to all the bolts. The clutch cover came off without any drama, with gasket intact. The "clutch spring support bolt (s)" number 1 in the diagram were tight, real tight. And the clutch spring bolts were tight too. But since I had everything opened up I pulled the bolts out, cleaned the threads and used locktight blue instead of red. I used a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench to to do the tightning in a star pattern. I set the shoulder bolts to 16.5 lbs which is 198 inch pounds, and 7 pounds (84 inch lbs) on the spring bolts and clutch cover bolts. Pretty straight forward, no surprises. Glad its taken care of.
Haven't heard any noises but thought I would tear into the clutch and see what was up. The whole job took about an hour an half. The trick to not losing oil is to get the rear tire up on a 2x4 while on the kick stand. The right fairing comes off first to get access to all the bolts. The clutch cover came off without any drama, with gasket intact. The "clutch spring support bolt (s)" number 1 in the diagram were tight, real tight. And the clutch spring bolts were tight too. But since I had everything opened up I pulled the bolts out, cleaned the threads and used locktight blue instead of red. I used a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench to to do the tightning in a star pattern. I set the shoulder bolts to 16.5 lbs which is 198 inch pounds, and 7 pounds (84 inch lbs) on the spring bolts and clutch cover bolts. Pretty straight forward, no surprises. Glad its taken care of.
