jeremy_283
Registered
do you just tighten the bolt furthermore until the first hole you can insert a cotter pin into lines up?
First off, you never loosen to install a cotter pin. If it doesn't line up, back it off and re-torque. If it still does not line up you can shim it with thin washers until it does line up. If it is close (aka half hole off), tighten to line it up. You never back off a castlated nut to install a cotter pin.
I guess everyone has they're own answer so here mine. I only hand tighten until it's nice n snug probably less than 25lbs. Actually I look to see when the swing arms are in full contact with the spacers, then spin the wheel a tighten a little more until there a little added restistance to spin the wheel. That's tight enough for me. I use the cotter pin so the castle nut can't loosen up. The axle isn't going to slide forward because of the chain adjuster bolts and it's not going to slide back because of the chain and the engines torque.
Spin your wheel at say 25lbs then tighten it to 70+ lbs and spin the wheel again. You'll notice it takes more force to turn the wheel the more you tighten the axle nut.
what force would cause the cottter pin to sheer?
I've got a few hgi speed miles logged like this and the pin remains loose in it's position. The axle nut or axle haven't ever shifted even enough to pinch the cotter pin. Granted if I did see signs of the pin being pinched I would tighten the nut a little more for safety.
As for needing more force to turn the wheel I didn't mean 2lbs of force going to 25lbs of force. There is a noticeable difference though.
The more you pinch the wheel between the swing amr the more side loading and the more force needed to over come the additional load. The spacers are between the swigarm arms and the wheel bearings. The more compression on the whole assembly causes more friction.