jeremy_283
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do you just tighten the bolt furthermore until the first hole you can insert a cotter pin into lines up?
If a cotter pin hole doesn't line up...
- Thread starter jeremy_283
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aussiekeeper
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either way, whichever is closer.
afterhours
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do not overtighten.....use a torque wrench.
First off, you never loosen to install a cotter pin. If it doesn't line up, back it off and re-torque. If it still does not line up you can shim it with thin washers until it does line up. If it is close (aka half hole off), tighten to line it up. You never back off a castlated nut to install a cotter pin.
trekfuel
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You don't want to radically overtorque a nut... especially not the rear axle; TQ should be 72 LBS. I recommend that you TQ to 70 and look to see where the hole is, then continue to 72. I agree that you should NEVR back off TQ to align the holes for the cotter pin.
I never over torque the axle nut. I ALWAYS torque the axle nut then back it off to align the holes. To much torque will stretch the threads.
Acutally, we never use the recommended 72 lbs of torque on any bike. We change wheels and tires almost daily for track use and we use 50-55 lbs of torque and it works just fine and the threads on the axle and nut last a LOT longer.
None of our current bikes have the cotter pin, simply a self locking nut and we have never had a problem nor has anyone else I know. Not recommending you do this but it works well for us.
Acutally, we never use the recommended 72 lbs of torque on any bike. We change wheels and tires almost daily for track use and we use 50-55 lbs of torque and it works just fine and the threads on the axle and nut last a LOT longer.
None of our current bikes have the cotter pin, simply a self locking nut and we have never had a problem nor has anyone else I know. Not recommending you do this but it works well for us.
jeremy_283
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Well I was like completely covering the hole on mine and I had to tighten it up, backing off and retorquing did nothing, my only concern would be the wheel bearings
aussiekeeper
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There is no pressure on the wheel bearing rollers. The nut runs into the spacer, which runs into the inner bearing collar. So, no effect on the bearings themselves. Just tighten or loosen to the next closest to get the pathway lined up.
jeremy_283
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Well would it squeeze the inner race possibly distorting it? I know it will put not excess pressure on the balls themselves
aussiekeeper
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In my earlier post, I suggested to back it off to get the holes aligned.
Leave the cotter pin out. Not generally needed. Some will argue that if you back it off a bit, it won't cause any harm. Others will say that that will cause the bolt to shear off the cotter pin regardless.
But you shouldn't over torque the bolt, either.
Either way, I doubt there is enough difference to matter. The holes are too close together to cause issues. I always back it off.
--Wag--
But you shouldn't over torque the bolt, either.
Either way, I doubt there is enough difference to matter. The holes are too close together to cause issues. I always back it off.
--Wag--
I guess everyone has they're own answer so here mine. I only hand tighten until it's nice n snug probably less than 25lbs. Actually I look to see when the swing arms are in full contact with the spacers, then spin the wheel a tighten a little more until there a little added restistance to spin the wheel. That's tight enough for me. I use the cotter pin so the castle nut can't loosen up. The axle isn't going to slide forward because of the chain adjuster bolts and it's not going to slide back because of the chain and the engines torque.
Spin your wheel at say 25lbs then tighten it to 70+ lbs and spin the wheel again. You'll notice it takes more force to turn the wheel the more you tighten the axle nut.
Spin your wheel at say 25lbs then tighten it to 70+ lbs and spin the wheel again. You'll notice it takes more force to turn the wheel the more you tighten the axle nut.
Eventually, you will shear off a cotter pin and lose an axle. If that's at any speed over 35 mph, it's life threatening.
If your wheel takes that much more force to spin, something else is wrong and needs to be checked out.
--Wag--
what force would cause the cottter pin to sheer? I've got a few hgi speed miles logged like this and the pin remains loose in it's position. The axle nut or axle haven't ever shifted even enough to pinch the cotter pin. Granted if I did see signs of the pin being pinched I would tighten the nut a little more for safety.
As for needing more force to turn the wheel I didn't mean 2lbs of force going to 25lbs of force. There is a noticeable difference though. The more you pinch the wheel between the swing amr the more side loading and the more force needed to over come the additional load. The spacers are between the swigarm arms and the wheel bearings. The more compression on the whole assembly causes more friction.
As for needing more force to turn the wheel I didn't mean 2lbs of force going to 25lbs of force. There is a noticeable difference though. The more you pinch the wheel between the swing amr the more side loading and the more force needed to over come the additional load. The spacers are between the swigarm arms and the wheel bearings. The more compression on the whole assembly causes more friction.
Hard to be sure, but not much. It's just a little bit of aluminum.
The risk is not in a gradual shear, but in a sudden shear while you're out riding.
I'm curious now so I'll have to check this next time I have the wheel off. I've never noticed but I'm a brute by nature and unless I'm paying attention, wouldn't catch that.
True, but as you say, not much. Kinda hard to justify leaving it to chance, so to speak.
--Wag--
Wag - for everday riding and such I could see being cautious and tightening the rear to a higher degree. I guess no matter what if something is sudden enough and has nough energy to rip the cotter pin we're in trouble no matter what. For me, since I'm more focused on less resistance anything that increases resistance I try to prevent. It's just my technique. 
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