HW's Inaugural Maintenance

[sixpack577]

I traced down the squeaking sound and I could feel the vibration when moving the bars in the top metal clamp that both control housing conduits first hit on their way down. The conduits are a bit pinched at that 90 degree angle and that was notably from the factory. I just added the 20mm riser and HeliBars and I think that pulled the conduits slightly further out. Is this level of pinching of the conduit and possibly wires acceptable? It seems to me like far too much pressure, and the obviously excessive friction in the bar movement. I truly think that this clip should be removed to relieve the wiring.

@Mythos what is your opinion?

Any other changes? I see on the forum that some have recommended to keep the throttle cable clamp off, the clamp near the tank.

Yes, remove the throttle-cable clamp.

[sixpack577]

That "wiring harness guide" goes under the ignition. That is one more layer than I took apart, a nightmare to remove. I may just bolt this together and hope for enough slack.

Presuming mine is the same as the gen3, @Gen3lover thanks a lot for documenting the right side here. I appreciate the photo!

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/how-to-remove-the-spring-wiring-guide-so-i-can-replace-the-steering-lock-cover-see-diagram.207271/

"Suzuki engineers are amazing..." Touche @sixpack577.

The Moto-CNC riser bolts are excessively long and the rear one is scratching the frame. Perhaps they use these for multiple applications. I will see about adding 20 mm to the stock length and hack saw the rest off. I do not have a grinder but perhaps a fine file to smooth the cut. I am unsure if 20 mm is the total lift effect so I have to triple check that the final bolt length is long enough. Yes, I see that the OEM front and rear bolts are different lengths too while the aftermarket are the same size.

<After measuring, the front bolts are stock + 20mm and just the two rear bolts require a bit trimmed to clear the frame.>

I have and still do hacksaw and file many bolts to whatever length that I need, and they thread on easily after.
I use a small V- shaped fine tooth file to get into the threads and clean them up.
I still have quite a few to do this with on my '03 Gsxr

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Hey man, what's up?!
I hope all is well with you.
How's the Busa coming along?

Hi @sixpack577. I am doing fine thanks. I hope that you are well.

I have been out of work but that has allowed me to completely de-stress, proceed on the house and on the bike. The best thing that can happen is that I find a job soon and the worst thing for things getting done is that I find a job soon.

Items remaining are the brake lines, (I am thinking perhaps just the front this round), clutch override, rebuild of the shock, fill with oil, and replace the left muffler.

Depending on work, I had planned on adding Yoshi R-77 Signature slip-ons. These are being completely wiped out. I guess I will have to trust that after all the years of gen 2 that I will be able to get parts that I want from the market, but this one will be doubtful. I did think that regardless of how an upgrade may go I should have an OEM muffler (for the next owner?) so I just put an ad in the classifieds for one.

I need a certain relative with an impact for the clutch nut and I need to purchase a vise to torque the nuts on the Brock's hub.
I have found that nice vises with accurate machining and smooth movement are overkill because one pays for the strength of the unit. I undoubtedly will do light or medium duty tasks and likely nothing heavy duty. I am planning on getting this vise soon. I am working out a mounting platform that I can clamp to my cart, preventing from having to drill into the beautiful top; I am considering hardwood plywood from the lumber yard. A chopping block was a consideration but, at least reasonably priced ones are end grain and drilling could weaken the pieces (?).

I have and still do hacksaw and file many bolts to whatever length that I need, and they thread on easily after.

All of a sudden Bolt Depot became my new best friend to get exactly what I want. This cutting hardened bolts is for the birds. Or you. Or the birds.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Yes, remove the throttle-cable clamp.

All of that was not referring to the throttle clamp but the spring-loaded stay that the electrical cables go through. The mounting for that is convoluted, through the ignition so I did not remove it. It seems that with the 20 mm riser and Helibars that the electrical cable lengths are ok. I am trusting those who did this combination and have not reported any internal wires being broken all of these years.

The throttle cables seem to have enough relief with or without the clamp. They seem to be at less risk than the electrical conduits with this setup because they come from behind and the Helibars bring the bars closer. I will probably analyze that a zillionth time and make a decision in keeping the clamp or putting it in a box with the bars and MC.

[BigBSBusa]

Hi @sixpack577. I am doing fine thanks. I hope that you are well.

I have been out of work but that has allowed me to completely de-stress, proceed on the house and on the bike. The best thing that can happen is that I find a job soon and the worst thing for things getting done is that I find a job soon.

Items remaining are the brake lines, (I am thinking perhaps just the front this round), clutch override, rebuild of the shock, fill with oil, and replace the left muffler.

Depending on work, I had planned on adding Yoshi R-77 Signature slip-ons. These are being completely wiped out. I guess I will have to trust that after all the years of gen 2 that I will be able to get parts that I want from the market, but this one will be doubtful. I did think that regardless of how an upgrade may go I should have an OEM muffler (for the next owner?) so I just put an ad in the classifieds for one.

I need a certain relative with an impact for the clutch nut and I need to purchase a vise to torque the nuts on the Brock's hub.
I have found that nice vises with accurate machining and smooth movement are overkill because one pays for the strength of the unit. I undoubtedly will do light or medium duty tasks and likely nothing heavy duty. I am planning on getting this vise soon. I am working out a mounting platform that I can clamp to my cart, preventing from having to drill into the beautiful top; I am considering hardwood plywood from the lumber yard. A chopping block was a consideration but, at least reasonably priced ones are end grain and drilling could weaken the pieces (?).


View attachment 1706927




All of a sudden Bolt Depot became my new best friend to get exactly what I want. This cutting hardened bolts is for the birds. Or you. Or the birds.

You know that when you buy Yoshi mufflers or system that you can send them in to have refurbished. Costs a little bit, but I had that done to a used muffler set that I bought and they returned as new. With the cost of the used set and refurb it was much less than most of the used sets and absolutely cheaper than a new set.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

You know that when you buy Yoshi mufflers or system that you can send them in to have refurbished.

I had no idea. Great advice! Thanks.

[BigBSBusa]

I had no idea. Great advice! Thanks.

Here's a link: Yoshimura Factory Exhaust Sytem Refurbishment

[sixpack577]

You know that when you buy Yoshi mufflers or system that you can send them in to have refurbished. Costs a little bit, but I had that done to a used muffler set that I bought and they returned as new. With the cost of the used set and refurb it was much less than most of the used sets and absolutely cheaper than a new set.

Yep
And you can drill the rivots, pull out the center tube, and rewrap it with new muffler packing, which is exactly what they will do.
Same process when you cut them shorter.
Always cheaper to do it yourself.

[sixpack577]

I had no idea. Great advice! Thanks.

Yes, they are designed to come apart and be repacked.
The muffler packing material burns up over time, and the mufflers get louder little by little without you really noticing.

[sixpack577]

I would drill holes in my workbench for a vice(and I did), as the bigger, heavier, and sturdier whatever the vice is mounted to, the better the vice will function.
It will make your life much easier.
And, if you don't like hacksawing bolts, just get a side grinder for $15 at Harbor Freight, with a pack of cutting discs.
You will cut through the bolts in seconds, then clean up the threads with a file.
Clamp the head of the bolt in the vice, and if you don't want the vice jaws marring the bolt's finsish, or if it is a round head like an allen socket, a small piece of scrap wood on each side, and let the wood compress around the bolt head.[/QUOTE]

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Yes, they are designed to come apart and be repacked.
The muffler packing material burns up over time, and the mufflers get louder little by little without you really noticing.

Thanks. For background, I do know about packing the aftermarket mufflers. My issue is the exterior condition and potentially living with a trashed can. I like my stuff perfect and that makes Yoshi a higher priority vendor, over others that may expect us to throw their goods into a landfill. That Yoshi reconditions the whole part is very cool.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I would drill holes in my workbench for a vice(and I did), as the bigger, heavier, and sturdier whatever the vice is mounted to, the better the vice will function.

I have gone back and forth on this issue and I resolved that I cannot think of a project where I torqued something to such a high degree that it would not work with a clamped base. How much rotational torque can one put on a clamped base? Perhaps 150 or 200 ftp-lbs? This universal type vise is rated at 130 ft-lbs. Thus I will break the vise before a wood mount would break. Keep trying to convince me with say an example, but I cannot think of one.

If I mounted it, I would remove it to use the full area of the bench top and occasionally port and use the vise elsewhere. Those are nice advantages.

[sixpack577]

Thanks. For background, I do know about packing the aftermarket mufflers. My issue is the exterior condition and potentially living with a trashed can. I like my stuff perfect and that makes Yoshi a higher priority vendor, over others that may expect us to throw their goods into a landfill. That Yoshi reconditions the whole part is very cool.

Packing is simply removing the old, burnt packing of the center perforated tube, then wrapping the new packing around it, and rivoting the can back together.
It is very self explanatory.

[Bumblebee]

Packing is simply removing the old, burnt packing of the center perforated tube, then wrapping the new packing around it, and rivoting the can back together.
It is very self explanatory.

Does the packing come in measured sizes for specific systems or a bulk pack?

I once repacked the mufflers on my RD (Micron system-circlips to take out the pack) and in those days we had to buy the packing in bulk and basically guess how much to pack the cans with....

If you pack too much, it kills performance a lot........good thing there were circlips so I could go back in and take some packing out.....on the side of the road.....

...ah, the good days....

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Packing is simply removing the old, burnt packing of the center perforated tube, then wrapping the new packing around it, and rivoting the can back together.
It is very self explanatory.

Read the Yoshi description. They refurbish the exterior too. That is a great advantage and for me opens up purchasing used, as they make the mufflers appear nice again.

Does the packing come in measured sizes for specific systems or a bulk pack?

Some makers sell a package with pre-cut material that fits particular lines of their products, probably based on length. If the maker does not, then one would purchase the material elsewhere and cut it to spec.

I did extensive research and purchased rivets for my Two Brothers VFR can hoping to get it packed. My prior mechanic feared that the can will completely disintegrate if taken apart. The can is pretty robust and he has a habit of iterating something is not possible if he does not want to do it. (Now I understand this.) I have that one packed up to sell someday and riders do not care at all about the packing, so now that may not get done.

[sixpack577]

Does the packing come in measured sizes for specific systems or a bulk pack?

I once repacked the mufflers on my RD (Micron system-circlips to take out the pack) and in those days we had to buy the packing in bulk and basically guess how much to pack the cans with....

If you pack too much, it kills performance a lot........good thing there were circlips so I could go back in and take some packing out.....on the side of the road.....

...ah, the good days....

You can buy packing in bulk, or pay more for a specific amount from that muffler's manufacturer, and that's not you ordering a specific amount, but them giving you a set amount for a specific muffler(s).

[sixpack577]

I have gone back and forth on this issue and I resolved that I cannot think of a project where I torqued something to such a high degree that it would not work with a clamped base. How much rotational torque can one put on a clamped base? Perhaps 150 or 200 ftp-lbs? This universal type vise is rated at 130 ft-lbs. Thus I will break the vise before a wood mount would break. Keep trying to convince me with say an example, but I cannot think of one.

If I mounted it, I would remove it to use the full area of the bench top and occasionally port and use the vise elsewhere. Those are nice advantages.


You would be suprised how much force can be needed on stubborn fasteners.
This is mine(key for size reference)

[sixpack577]

View attachment 1706969

RAHHHHHHHH!!!!!
WHY DO THE PICS KEEP FLIPPING?!?!

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

RAHHHHHHHH!!!!!
WHY DO THE PICS KEEP FLIPPING?!?!

Is this from an iPhone? If yes:

Post in thread 'How's everyone liking their gen 3s so far'

Oct 15, 2021

Is it from an iPhone?

Yes sir

In his infinite wisdom Steve Jobs decided to mark up/down on the picture file differently from the rest of the known galaxy. Thus only the phone knows the correct up/down of the photo and MS Windows, the web, etc. may not identify it correctly.

The most successful method is to try to remember to physically orient the phone with the top up and bottom down when you take pictures. You could put a note on the back of the phone labeling the top and bottom to help. Otherwise you may have to flip the photo orientation after transferring the file...

• Hayabusa Wannabe

• 

[sixpack577]

Is this from an iPhone? If yes:

Post in thread 'How's everyone liking their gen 3s so far'

Oct 15, 2021

Is it from an iPhone?

Yes sir

In his infinite wisdom Steve Jobs decided to mark up/down on the picture file differently from the rest of the known galaxy. Thus only the phone knows the correct up/down of the photo and MS Windows, the web, etc. may not identify it correctly.

The most successful method is to try to remember to physically orient the phone with the top up and bottom down when you take pictures. You could put a note on the back of the phone labeling the top and bottom to help. Otherwise you may have to flip the photo orientation after transferring the file...

• Hayabusa Wannabe

• 

No, an Android.
It's never given me these problems before, and some pics load normal, some don't, with no apparent rhyme or reason.