How To "Adjust" Your Valves/Cam Removal





MC MUSTANG

Peace Keeper or Ban Hammer-it's up to you; IDMBT#9
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Moved for ease of search... will also sticky!

MCM
 

Hurc

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As with all the write up's I've seen from Bill.. FANTASTIC!!!
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I think another good tip I've seen with a friend of mine, is zip tie the cam chain to the cam sprocket. That also keeps the chain in place.
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bandit1201

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a massive thanx to jinxster for the tech know how the bike was about to go in to the shop for the work to be done but when he gave me the price for new wheel bearings and valves and carb sync i nearly died find round my parts the word busa seems to imply your made of money so the parts and labour mysteriously rise

cheers man
 

infidel

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I have to agree with Hurc (from response #27)

If I had zip-tied my cams to the sprockets, I would have saved TONS of time. TONS. I would also have saved 6,891 expletives, several dozen points of blood pressure, and the last shreds of my sanity.

Alas, I did not.

Don't even begin to remove the chain tensioner or damper without zipping that chain down tight!!!

The cam WILL spin. The chain WILL slip. You WILL be pissed. I promise.
 

SSGT_B

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Thinking about tackling this in the upcoming month. My bike has 47k on it and I'm not sure if the po has ever has this done. Also have a mysterious rpm buzz/rattle from the right side of the motor. ( not clutch). Thanks for the write up!!! Going to order a shim kit before I get started
 

oldjabberwocky

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November 29, 2017. 2008 B-King. Adjusted valves 5 years ago and am doing them again and they require it. The cam chain adjuster doesn't want to extend as the manual describes it by rotating the engine 180 degrees in reverse rotation. This worked well 5 years ago. Any suggestions from anyone? Thank you.
 

oldjabberwocky

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November 29, 2017. Later on. I got it. I was using the wrong snap ring to hold the plunger in the retracted position. The "Outside" snap ring has to be used and I was using the inside one. All is well now and assembly is underway.
 

Mythos

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Glad you figured that out. Goodgod, I did this job on my 14 and it was a bugger! Not recommended unless you have several weeks for the bike to be out of service. You really want to take your time if you need to go to an adjustment after testing clearances. The busa is coming due. Good to know we have this thread.
 

Mythos

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...and don't trust a shop to do this for you unless you really, REALLY trust that shop. It's very easy to say it was done after not doing a thing. The bike won't run any better after an adjustment unless it was incredibly out of spec before, maybe.
 

oldjabberwocky

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I have all winter and I have a few more things to do after I get it mostly back together.
Online parts are often 2-3 weeks away, sometimes less but not usually. I can get known pieces ahead of time but usually there's other things come up.
While I had everything off I took the starter out and was going to rebrush it but there was so little wear I just cleaned it, greased one bearing and installed it.
Last time it got new brushes and springs, 5 years ago.
Every winter I have a list, next year it's both tires and a drive chain and sprockets while the rear wheel is off.
So far I can do most of all my own maintenance but I hate doing tires so I pay for that.
 




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