Valve Clearance, Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Adjuster Install, and Cam Chain, Tensioner, and Guides Inspection.

[The Magic School Bus]

Ok just throwing it out there, I see a ton of valve clearance threads, tried to sift through most of them for wisdoms. I have been preparing for days and today I am opening the cylinder head cover (my first time doing this).

Patient- 2005 GSX1300R 36,000 miles

First thing I am doing is installing the manual cam chain tension adjuster by APE. Then, I am to inspect the chain and guides to see what parts to order ( I've shopped for worst case scenario- meaning replacing everything without removing cyl head- hoping I've found decent prices and quick shipping). Once I've done that and have my parts on the way I'm going to check valve clearances. Wish me luck! If you have tips and links to helpful threads, videos, or stores selling the necessary gaskets, guides, chain, shims, etc. feels free to share. Right now I'm looking at OEM or lightly used guides on ebay. Also, found a new OEM cam chain for $99, a D.I.D. cam chain for $90, cylinder head cover gasket & (4) spark plug tube gaskets for $50, set of (6) valve cover bolt seal washers for $30. I'm reusing the gasket for my tensioner adjuster + red RTV and I'm using a shorter bolt + reuse (steel?) banjo washer + red RTV to plug the crankcase oil outlet that fed the tube to the stock adjuster. I am using these threads and videos to help: JINKSTER's "INSPECT" and "ADJUST" threads and David von Wolffersdorff's '06 valve clearance YouTube video, and of course my cyber pirated suzuki 99-00 service manual (wish I had 2005 supplement). How's all this sound? Am I on track so far? Thank you for your attention!

 

[rubbersidedown]

For all that stuff listed,I would buy Zook OEM only.
I am not a fan of re-use of an old gasket,or adding RTV to any gasket surface with a new or used gasket.
I would never re-use banjo washers.
Going to all that trouble I would not put in "lightly used" chain guides.
Thats just me and my OCD/paranoia.
Why all the fuss? At 36K was the chain noisey?
Rubb.

 

[The Magic School Bus]

For all that stuff listed,I would buy Zook OEM only.
I am not a fan of re-use of an old gasket,or adding RTV to any gasket surface with a new or used gasket.
I would never re-use banjo washers.
Going to all that trouble I would not put in "lightly used" chain guides.
Thats just me and my OCD/paranoia.
Why all the fuss? At 36K was the chain noisey?
Rubb.

Good advice, thanks Rubb. I agree anyways in regards to keeping OEM and avoiding used parts, just like to see the alternative. Maybe I should rethink using the tensioner adjuster gasket, just thought it would be ok since I was deleting the pressurized oil line, same logic with the washer for the plug except it just looks like a normal washer. It's not copper and what else are banjo washers made of? It's a permanant mod so instead of RTV maybe go with red loctite on the threads?

Yeah it's a little noisy, very little info from PO just got a feeling it's had a lot of owners, maybe raced, no maintenance history. Upon inspection the tensioner adjuster was fully extended, the intake valves were gunked when looking through TB, and compression is 181 to 185 psi. Plus the plugs were sort of yellowing.

 

[The Magic School Bus]

Damn it, immediately stripped the pin holding the adjuster bolt in place. JB weld to the rescue?

 

[rubbersidedown]

Banjo bolt specific washers are the best,they crush a little.
I wouldn't use red locktite on anything external on a motor that maybe needs to come out one day.
The ground electrodes on those plugs are a nice tan color,yer motor is running fine,the yellow means nothing.
There is some build up on top of your valves but nothing too serious. Yer A/F could be a little rich,yer valve guides may be overly worn.
Not sure I follow you on the Ape...the bolt head and locking nut are a mess for sure,but if you have stripped the threads,you may want to lick yer wounds and shi7 can it. As a manual tensioner its up to you to babysit it (adjust as necessary) not sure you want to use some trailer park fix like jb weld.What exactly is ruined? You seem pretty gung ho here...maybe just re-build the whole head.

Guides and seals,etc. Stop that carbon build up?
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

You bought a used tensioner eh? What "Backyard Bob" used his fine skills all over it...
Are you talking about the damaged threads at the top?

Rubb.

 

[The Magic School Bus]

Banjo bolt specific washers are the best,they crush a little.
I wouldn't use red locktite on anything external on a motor that maybe needs to come out one day.
The ground electrodes on those plugs are a nice tan color,yer motor is running fine,the yellow means nothing.
There is some build up on top of your valves but nothing too serious. Yer A/F could be a little rich,yer valve guides may be overly worn.
Not sure I follow you on the Ape...the bolt head and locking nut are a mess for sure,but if you have stripped the threads,you may want to lick yer wounds and shi7 can it. As a manual tensioner its up to you to babysit it (adjust as necessary) not sure you want to use some trailer park fix like jb weld.What exactly is ruined? You seem pretty gung ho here...maybe just re-build the whole head.View attachment 1628281 Guides and seals,etc. Stop that carbon build up?
Rubb.

It's a relief to hear that things look good but I have to do this inspection because as far as I know it's never been done. OK, I'll find a banjo bolt, no loctite, thank you! Regarding the APE, the top nut should not move along the threads of the bolt? That's whats happening, it looks like there is a pinhole on the nut and bolt, I'm guessing that is where those parts were punched? welded? in place.

Regarding the rest I'm just preparing for whatever I encounter inside. Hopefully the tappets are in spec, the timing chain, guides, and tensioners are good and all I have to do buy gaskets and seal it all up and throw in some fresh spark plugs?

 

[The Magic School Bus]

You bought a used tensioner eh? What "Backyard Bob" used his fine skills all over it...
Are you talking about the damaged threads at the top?
View attachment 1628282

Rubb.

yeah, I don't see what's wrong with buying this part used? It's a very simple device as I understand it. That isn't damaged thread that's steel reinforced epoxy.

 

[The Magic School Bus]

Am I crazy for performing a service manual scheduled "general maintaince" inspection that could very possibly be clocked well over twice it's service interval? Am I crazy for investigating the cause of a tensioner adjuster going beyond its limit?

 

[Bumblebee]

Nope not crazy...but it is crazy a bike with that low miles needs this sort of repair...many bikes here on this forum were/are ridden hard and have more miles without needing this done to them.

Plugs looked good but a change out was in order, a little build up on the back of the valves is normal especially if the bike has been idled or poor fuel was used-that's easily cleaned with some upper cylinder cleaning additive in the fuel.

If the cam chain guides and adjuster are both wore or at max adjustment, what does the cam chain look like, it might need to be replaced as well...

 

[The Magic School Bus]

 

[Bumblebee]

is the adjuster in it when you are turning it over there? If so it sure seems slack....

You obviously have a service manual....check the measurement for the cam chain

 

[The Magic School Bus]

yes its in there. the manual does not give a limit for slack. it just says 15 pins for spec

 

[The Magic School Bus]

Does @RedBull ever do anything other than "wow react"? Is it a bot of some sort?

 

[The Magic School Bus]

why does the chain tense up and then suddenly snap loose as I rotate the crank? Feel free to weigh in @RedBull

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Does @RedBull ever do anything other than "wow react"? Is it a bot of some sort?

Red Bull IS a bot

 

[Kiwi Rider]

why does the chain tense up and then suddenly snap loose as I rotate the crank? Feel free to weigh in @RedBull

It's obvious the chain is not tensioned correctly,
the reason why it's 'bunching up' and then 'snapping' back as you rotate the crank is because there is excessive slack in the chain on the tensioner side of the chain . . .
as the cam lobe depresses the valve 'bucket', due to spring pressure on the lobe and the lack of tension on the chain what you are seeing is the result of lack of tension, the cam lobe is fired off the bucket as it passes it's center point .
Hard to explain in words but I hope you can understand.
You need to take off the top guide plate and get a new APE manual tensioner (chuck that buggered one in the bin) then start winding the tension up until you see the chain slack disappearing at the top, between the sprockets.
You can depress the chain between the sprockets with your fingers to check how loose or tight it is, don't over tighten it.
Then wind the crank around slowly (any resistance or if the crank won't rotate, STOP, the cams may be out of time and valves are interfering) until the mark on the starter clutch face aligns with the slot in the cover.
Now, check the marks 1, 2, and 3 on the cam sprockets for correct timing.
It's a tricky procedure for the novice mechanic, shouldn't really try this at home . . . but you do have us oRgsters to consult on tech issues, we have a wealth of experience and knowledge on all things Busa!!
Good luck, and report back.

 

[The Magic School Bus]

It's obvious the chain is not tensioned correctly,
the reason why it's 'bunching up' and then 'snapping' back as you rotate the crank is because there is excessive slack in the chain on the tensioner side of the chain . . .
as the cam lobe depresses the valve 'bucket', due to spring pressure on the lobe and the lack of tension on the chain what you are seeing is the result of lack of tension, the cam lobe is fired off the bucket as it passes it's center point .
Hard to explain in words but I hope you can understand.
You need to take off the top guide plate and get a new APE manual tensioner (chuck that buggered one in the bin) then start winding the tension up until you see the chain slack disappearing at the top, between the sprockets.
You can depress the chain between the sprockets with your fingers to check how loose or tight it is, don't over tighten it.
Then wind the crank around slowly (any resistance or if the crank won't rotate, STOP, the cams may be out of time and valves are interfering) until the mark on the starter clutch face aligns with the slot in the cover.
Now, check the marks 1, 2, and 3 on the cam sprockets for correct timing.
It's a tricky procedure for the novice mechanic, shouldn't really try this at home . . . but you do have us oRgsters to consult on tech issues, we have a wealth of experience and knowledge on all things Busa!!
Good luck, and report back.

Hell yes. Thank you, now I do understand how that tension works and it make perfect sense. I figured it had something to do with the pressure from the lobes hitting the buckets! Brilliant Kiwi!!

It did stop turning and I figured that timing is now off, hopefully I didn't crank on it too hard cause for about fifteen minutes I couldn't figure out why it stopped. I don't think I put more then 20 nM on the crank? Atm I'm removing the cams. Then I'm going to figure out how to see if I damaged the valves. Thank you again for your guidance!!

 

[Mythos]

found a new OEM cam chain for $99, a D.I.D. cam chain for $90, cylinder head cover gasket & (4) spark plug tube gaskets for $50, set of (6) valve cover bolt seal washers for $30.

Guides? You mean cam chain guides? I doubt very much you would need to replace those at only 36,000 miles. I doubt even more you would need to change the cam chain. Change the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube gaskets.

After I installed my APE tensioner to my ZX-14, I adjusted the tension with the motor running. Just follow the instructions. It's very easy. If I recall they say to tighten the adjuster bolt until you feel tension. Start the engine and then adjust until you hear the rattle stop. Tighten the locknut and forget it until you hear it start rattling again which might never happen. My 14 has about 25000 miles on the APE and I never had to adjust it a second time. I run my motors reasonably hard too.

Does @RedBull ever do anything other than "wow react"? Is it a bot of some sort?

Yes, he is some sort of a bot.

 

[The Magic School Bus]

I guess I confused some folks for mentioning the chain, guides, etc. So, to clear this up: I did not go into this to do anything other than install the APE tensioner adjuster and to INSPECT clearance, but since I'm in there, might as well look at guides and chain. I brought up the other work because I thought I had good reason to suspect worn chain and/or guides due to the stock tensioner adjuster being fully extended and sounds from head during normal operation. A good scout is what?... Always prepared! Thus the parts at the ready and speculation for contingencies. It is how I do things that I shop for as much as I may possibly need all at once before I need things and have them at the ready for when I confirm the need. This also helps me save on shipping because it's more likely I can bundle shipping and cash in on things like checkout total discounts at some parts stores. Thanks for indulging me.

Update: Cams are out intake valves look straight and well seated still. Not sure how to check exhaust valves, debating removing header, radiator, headlight etc. and trying to make sure there isn't anything else I should do before I go ahead and reset timing.

Good news is that indeed as many of you predicted the chain and guides seems fine. Although that still begs the question as to why the old tensioner adjuster was all the out and the sound.