How hard to change rear rotor?

CWCobra

Registered
Joined
Oct 4, 2008
Messages
586
Reaction score
3
Can I change the rear brake rotor with the bike on a simple rear stand, or will I need to get the bike higher up in the air? I'm guessing I will need to get it waaay up off the ground in order to get the wheel/tire out from under the fender.

Anyone R&R the rear rotor without taking tire/wheel completely out of fender well? I'm wondering whether I can break the bolts loose with wheel still on bike, then slip the old rotor out somehow without even removing the chain. Is this possible?

TIA,
CW

RYC1966

Donating Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
2,515
Reaction score
29
to remove the wheel loosen the axel nut and move the adjusters in so you can slide the wheel foreward...to get the chain over the sproket so you can slide the wheel off. After loosening the axe...l take off the brake bar and have a means of supporting the caliper once you start to remove the wheel...leaving it hang is not so good.

The rotor has some sort of locktite on it and can be hard to remove...I wouldn't suggest swaping them on the bike...but somebody else might. There is also a spacer that you willl easily see...just put it back where it was. Here is a list of torque specs from this site...

torque.jpg

HillbillyTom

Donating Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2007
Messages
3,793
Reaction score
10
I change mine all the time from street wheels to track wheels and back.
Getting the wheel off is easy enough on a regular rear stand, even with the mudflap intact. You can lean the wheel/tire over to the side a little and it'll slide right out from under it. Same process for putting it back on. Not hard at all.
First time breaking the rotor bolts loose may be a little hard, though mine came right out with no problems. Just mind your torque specs given above when putting everything back together.
Another quick tip I've found.. don't take the chain adjuster bolts loose and you can get it back on without re-setting the chain slack, unless it needs set anyway, then I use a set of dial calipers to get everything perfectly straight again. And when setting chain slack, always set to the loose side of the measurement, 20mm-30mm (on a Gen 1), set to 30mm.
Not a difficult task at all.:thumbsup:

Edit: A picture on the stands..
Hallet9-5-10003.jpg

BA BUSA

MotoGP Wannabe
Donating Member
Joined
May 15, 2003
Messages
35,320
Reaction score
70
You need to remove the wheel from the bike.
Posted via Mobile Device

GMbusa

Orange is the fastest
Registered
Joined
Mar 20, 2004
Messages
8,096
Reaction score
1,339
You can do it on the bike, but it's much easier to remove the wheel.

CWCobra

Registered
Joined
Oct 4, 2008
Messages
586
Reaction score
3
Thanks for the pic, Hillbillytom. Guess I'll just take the wheel off then.

CW

pashnit

Site Sponsor
Joined
Aug 17, 2003
Messages
16,696
Reaction score
16,950
You need a visual.

Slight problem.



The Solution. :cheerleader:




Take off the old one...





Just put on the new one & done.

And change out your old brake pads too if you put on a new rotor. Pads & rotor function as a matched set.



Img_9724.jpg


Img_9731.jpg


Img_9742.jpg


Img_9744.jpg


Img_9752.jpg
Back
Top