help..oil change question after 23 miles

[TulBusa]

I bought an 04 Busa(blue/silver), and took it to the dyno to have broken in via the MotoTune MotoMan directions. I now have 23 miles on it and am going to change the oil. The breakin was last Thursday, but am just being able to get to it. My question is, do I just change the oil while cold or start the motor and heat up the engine to help drain the oil. The problem I have is all that crap and shavings from the break in and I don't want to re-distribute it throughout the motor again. What should I do? Thanks!

 

[Ride_or_Fish]

This could open a huge debate and disagreement, but I'm probably one of the few who prefers to change oil (on any vehicle) with a cold engine. My thinking is along the lines of what you mentioned - I want as much dirty oil as possible down in the pan when I remove the drain. You'd be surpised how much dirty oil remains in the upper regions of an engine for several hours.

There may be dozens of reasons to NOT do it this wasy, but I've done it this way for the past 20+ years...
--- just my $.02

 

[Juggler]

I usually would warm the bike up, so that it flows easier, but R_o_F is probably right. This could be the next Argument of the Ages.

 

[TulBusa]

I just read another type of break in method from some Brock or Yates guy and he says to let the bike completely cool down then change the oil, even let it drain all night.

I think the key is to let all the crap settle and not to start the bike again to redistribute all the crap. I guess if you really wanted the oil to run out smooth, you could use a hair dryer to heat the bottom of the oil pan, that way you wouldn't have to start the bike....that may be taking it a bit far, but may be worth something!?!?

 

[Saberknight]

Warm the bike first.........

A quick analogy............If you have a cup of coffee with grounds in it? Then you let it sit,you can drain most of the coffee without getting any grounds. If you stir the cup,and then drain the coffee. Most,if not all grounds are removed.

You don't want any of the metal particles left in your engine do you? If you really want to clean as much as possible. Warm the bike,and then drain the oil. Don't change the filter yet. Replace drain plug,and add some really cheap oil. Start bike again,and then redrain. Change filter,add oil,and engine should be clean.

On my Harleys,after a breakin run. I will drain the oil. Remove the return oil line,and start the bike. Let the bike run until clean oil is coming out the return line.

I believe engine oil is the life blood of any engine. Keep it clean.Change it often.

 

[redbusa04]

One thing I used to do was drain the oil, then with the drain still open, I would pour a few quarts of cheap oil in and let it flush out any remaining particles. Alot of stuff used to come out in fresh oil.

Tim

 

[Rosco]

One thing I used to do was drain the oil, then with the drain still open, I would pour a few quarts of cheap oil in and let it flush out any remaining particles.  Alot of stuff used to come out in fresh oil.

Tim

Funny you should say that.

Made me remember that back in my dads day, you could buy cheap "flushing" oil from the local fuel stop just to run for 5min and drain again.

Mind you, I'd hate to do that with Silkolene!
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Cheers
Ross

 

[MET]

Change it cold...........

 

[purplefalcon]

i change the oil cold and if it is on a new(er) motor, i also pour about a 1/2 qt of new oil through it, i'm not sure why i do it as most drain plugs are magnetic and have already grabbed most of the filings, i guess it just makes me feel better.

 

[mctrull]

I always change mine cold, I even tilt it side to side to make sure there are no puddles in the engine case. Don't let it fall over, I lean it to me and if it goes down, it is on top of my legs. It doesn't weigh that much and I can lift it fairly easy if I had to but, so far I haven't had to pick it up off of me. I really do not tip it that far so as to be that much of a risk.

 

[chain]

Perfect opportunity to parrot my mantra, "Ride more, worry less!"

OK, fine, I'll add my .02 worth.

If you want to clear the motor of most of the micro particulates in the oil (read: itty bitty pieces of dirt and debris), then you need to warm the engine to operating temp before you dump the old oil.

Among other purposes engine oil serves, it holds contaminants in suspension. Thick, cold motor oil is less prone to flow anywhere (including out the drain and into your catch pan) than is hot, thin oil. There really is no arguing this.

However, in the end (and while I change my hot) you probably won't hurt your bike either way...

 

[stickygumbo]

Greetings,
For future reference, you can have cake and eat it too... drain the oil when its hot.. let it drain all out until its stone cold, i.e. overnite.

 

[Dulimon]

To much scotch to care...change my own, but food for thought??? BTW - Just went to Mobile 1...thought I was getting some power form the syn and starting to broil the rear hides plus a well worn rear skin=vaporization. Went out on a country back road and took some slow motion video...Guess what...clutch slip!! The rear hide was planted and the tach went skyward slightly at low RPM'S. Nothing against Mobile 1 it just might be my bike...mechanical devices are different...trying Silkolene next time to see. Can't make a judgement call until you have exhausted all the factors. I have read adverse post about Mobil 1 bike lube. My clutch didn't start to slip until about 275 to 300 miles after the switch. It just might be my machines personality or mechanical problems starting w/ only 3500 miles on the tranny. I'll keep you updated after my next oil change. "An open mind is a terrilbe thing to waste"http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibl....le.html

the Pinch again



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[ralnsplder]

I would change it warm, For one if you change it warm, the crap in it should have had time to settle also the hotter the engine walls are the thinner the oil is and it will not stick to the side. Think of trying to poor syrup out of the bottle after it has just come out of the fridge, not take that same syrup and stick it in th microwave. You will find that with the engine hot, less will stick to it. I also agree with sabreknight about it sitting on the bottom. Have you ever tried to drain a bathtub that has sand in it. it doesnt all drain just by letting the water out. you have to keep adding water to get it all out. So unless you plan to flush, it is better to have it atleast warm as thinner fluid drains faster then think fluid. the faster it drains the more likely it is to pull everything off of the bottom. Just my opinion.

 

[bacharles]

I do it warm and then run a little oil through the system to catch the unwanteds. I usually buy an extra quart to do stuff like this.



Brian