Having trouble with my gen 2.

Pitbullpete

Registered
Hi. Maybe I could get some answers here. My bike runs like crap once it warms up. Its also sputtering once it hit 8000 rpms.
Hope I could get some good tips.
I have tried everything and anything. It’s getting way to expensive. ‍♂️
 
Sounds like a fueling issue: Injectors, fuel pump, the fuel itself, but don't rule out electrical.
You're likely to find a bunch of general responses to your question with a couple search queries from inside this forum.
Are you mechanically inclined?
Has the bike been sitting?
 
Welcome...

Any recent work done to the bike?
Any mods?
What type of air cleaner are you using?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Battery good? Sounds odd but these bikes need really good battery power to run properly...
Bad spark plugs will do this too

I take it you've checked all your connections...have you checked them when it's warmed up after a ride to see if one of them is getting hot? Is the ECU getting hot?

Could be a slight kink in the fuel line, when you lift and lower the tank sometimes the fuel line gets kinked...even if it is slightly kinked it could cause these symptoms.

A slight vacuum leak could also cause this-a little engine starter spray around the vacuum lines on idle will tell you.
 
Sounds like a fueling issue: Injectors, fuel pump, the fuel itself, but don't rule out electrical.
You're likely to find a bunch of general responses to your question with a couple search queries from inside this forum.
Are you mechanically inclined?
Has the bike been sitting?
I have changed out coil’s, fuel pump, just put a brand new fuel assembly, all fuel injectors, changed out ECU , Ran it without my power commander five, cleaned out and flushed the fuel tank. I have had a bunch of fake builders and Tuner‘s telling me all kinds of stuff and it’s been like a process of illumination. It’s gotten way too expensive for me. The local Suzuki dealer won’t touch my bike in three months. They expect my bike to be sitting at the shop for 3 to 4 months without being touched. I am not a mechanic but one thing I can do is tear something apart and put it right back the way it was. They are saying that it’s a the temperature sensor that is located in the block of the engine. Other say it’s my gear positioning sensor. I’ve been wondering if any of these things will throw off the ECU
 
Welcome...

Any recent work done to the bike?
Any mods?
What type of air cleaner are you using?
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Battery good? Sounds odd but these bikes need really good battery power to run properly...
Bad spark plugs will do this too

I take it you've checked all your connections...have you checked them when it's warmed up after a ride to see if one of them is getting hot? Is the ECU getting hot?

Could be a slight kink in the fuel line, when you lift and lower the tank sometimes the fuel line gets kinked...even if it is slightly kinked it could cause these symptoms.

A slight vacuum leak could also cause this-a little engine starter spray around the vacuum lines on idle will tell you.
I have changed out all spark plugs. Then in oil change. And so much more while it’s been parked. I just got out of surgery and not able to test ride it after the new fuel pump assembly installment. I let it run till it got warm and it almost seem like it started acting up. As for the fuel lines. I have changed out my old one put a new one and after even putting the new one I put an aftermarket fuel line due to the OEM fuel line gets kinked easy.
 
I have changed out all spark plugs. Then in oil change. And so much more while it’s been parked. I just got out of surgery and not able to test ride it after the new fuel pump assembly installment. I let it run till it got warm and it almost seem like it started acting up. As for the fuel lines. I have changed out my old one put a new one and after even putting the new one I put an aftermarket fuel line due to the OEM fuel line gets kinked easy.

Any mods?

It will be something simple yet hard to diagnose..

If you needed to put a new fuel pump assembly in, the old one must have been beyond salvaging...if so, all that crud goes right to the injectors...must have one partially plugged...that's all it would take for this to be happening.
 
Any mods?

It will be something simple yet hard to diagnose..

If you needed to put a new fuel pump assembly in, the old one must have been beyond salvaging...if so, all that crud goes right to the injectors...must have one partially plugged...that's all it would take for this to be happening.
I have cleaned over and over the fuel injectors. I thinking that maybe it wasn’t even the fuel pump or the assembly due to the same thing is still happening. That goes for the coils changed, spark plugs, fuel line , ECU, power commander, and so on. It’s pretty easy. I just have to have the right person with the right answer. It’s acting up when I’m on full throttle and when it hits 8000 RPMs. I feel the warming up of the Motor has a big roll on it also.
 
I have cleaned over and over the fuel injectors. I thinking that maybe it wasn’t even the fuel pump or the assembly due to the same thing is still happening. That goes for the coils changed, spark plugs, fuel line , ECU, power commander, and so on. It’s pretty easy. I just have to have the right person with the right answer. It’s acting up when I’m on full throttle and when it hits 8000 RPMs. I feel the warming up of the Motor has a big roll on it also.

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Wow, so electrical and fuelling have both been addressed....

Without actually being hands on, it's hard to diagnose this one...the other "silver backs" will be along shortly I'd wager...
 
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Wow, so electrical and fuelling have both been addressed....

Without actually being hands on, it's hard to diagnose this one...the other "silver backs" will be along shortly I'd wager...
Changing out old parts for new ones isn’t really hard. It’s the pin pointing the issue is what is kill me.
 
Open the fuel cap while running in case vacuum is building up and holding the fuel back. With all your fuel maintenance I would bet the venting was checked in which case ignore this suggestion.

Use a multimeter and perform the service manual stator and rectifier tests when hot - stator AC voltages, battery DC voltage which is the rectifier output, and the resistance of the coils. When stators age or overheat the insulation melts with micro-fissures. The coils only short across each other when it gets hot and that fissure expands big enough. It becomes a bigger problem as the demand for power increases. In the same vein as someone posted above check/clean the ground(s) (I don't know what they consist of on this bike.)

The safety switches like the kickstand switch are on my mind. I would think that would shut off the bike but perhaps it could open and short so fast that it is imperceptible. Find a procedure here for bypassing it.
 
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Open the fuel cap while running in case vacuum is building up and holding the fuel back. With all your fuel maintenance I would bet the venting was checked in which case ignore this suggestion.

Use a multimeter and perform the service manual stator and rectifier tests when hot - stator AC voltages, battery DC voltage which is the rectifier output, and the resistance of the coils. When stators age or overheat the insulation melts with micro-fissures. The coils only short across each other when it gets hot and that fissure expands big enough. It becomes a bigger problem as the demand for power increases. In the same vein as someone posted above check/clean the ground(s) (I don't know what they consist of on this bike.)

The safety switches like the kickstand switch are on my mind. I would think that would shut off the bike but perhaps it could open and short so fast that it is imperceptible. Find a procedure here for bypassing it.
Would any of these you mentioned come up on a code.
 
Would any of these you mentioned come up on a code.

No. a lot of bikes die on the road from a dead charging system without ever seeing a code (do not ask how I personally know this well.) See the code chart Rubb provided and note that those issues are equipment errors that are, say one level up from the base of wiring and power.

The system that displays trouble codes expects certain physical things like power, connections, and grounds to be in place. It cannot display an error that these are bad because its very operation of reporting to you depends on them working. It is somewhat of a circular problem. Only airplanes can detect some of these wiring and power problems but that is because there are two of everything and excessive gauges on the airplane to make that happen, which is very expensive.
 
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As Wannabe stated, definitely test and check the stator output cold and hot, also the regulator/rectifier as per the service manual tests AND the AC output on each of the 3 phases of the stator. The stator should have at least 20 v AC at idle, and 80v AC or more at 5000rpm. Charging voltage at the battery should be minimum 13.2v DC.
Also, check the coolant temp sensor is working correctly in the temp range parameters it needs to be within.
Really needs to be checked on the live data on a plugged in monitor, at a workshop they should be able to plug it in.
 
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