Hate to have to go in,but I think,no choice.Fuel injectors.

rubbersidedown

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Busa is hard to start. [primary's?]
Busa kraps out a little after 8000 RPM [secondary's?]
Busa kraps out a little in turbo mode after 8000 RPM.[3rd set of injectors?]
Busa has sat a LONG LONG time here and there since it was bought off the showroom floor and immediately shipped to Richard at RCC Turbo. It's a 2010. 10 years old,but only 5 thousand KM [3k miles] That can't have done any of the fuel systems any good.I store my bikes properly,previous owner...
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What do ya think fella's? Dive in there? Rubb.
 
When it comes to the fuel system... be thorough. You can’t just assume the injectors are at fault, you need to look at the entire fuel system as a whole.
Start with fuel pressure test, also check volume of fuel delivered over given period of time (litres per minute?)
Address any issues found as you move through the tests, and then check the injectors for correct spray pattern.
Honestly Andy, the best way to look at it is to get the bike on a dyno and look at the air/fuel ratio as it climbs through the rev range under load. Then you will see if it’s a fueling issue or not, and work from that starting point with the tuning.
Do you have any good dyno tuning guys locally?
I mean, hey, you may find the injectors are clogged up and get them cleaned and hey presto, it’s sorted! But the entire fuel system will need cleaning if the injectors are dirty.
Just my thoughts on it . . . . :cool:
 
As my guy said above, need to get it on a dyno so you can see what's actually going on. Replacement as diagnosis can get expensive quick!
 
Only dyno around for a long way is the one owned by a tech who does the mod's and repairs for the local Hell's Angel's chapter. I know the guy [bought his self built Harley Pro Street] not sure if he knows turbo or not,I'd have to handle that side of it. The fuel filter etc etc...etc should be attended to aswell.
 
Address any issues found as you move through the tests, and then check the injectors for correct spray pattern.
That will be a new one for me Kiwi. Please explain. I know what yer talking about,just not how to perform the test. Thanks,Rubb.
 
If you're bound and determined to handle it yourself, I suppose you will, but I think that's a really good way to separate yourself from a stack of cash. Be cheaper to ship it to someone. Have you been in contact with Richard at RCC about it?
 
If you're bound and determined to handle it yourself, I suppose you will, but I think that's a really good way to separate yourself from a stack of cash. Be cheaper to ship it to someone. Have you been in contact with Richard at RCC about it?
He is in Ontario,me,British Columbia on an island. LOL. Too much money outa the gate for me right now. I shall have to peck away at it bit by bit and atleast save on a ship there n' back plus labour at who knows how much.I never pay for labour.I figure it out for myself,or get help from you my brothers if need be. I be the blue dot,Richard be the red dot. Canaduh is a big place. Rubb.

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That will be a new one for me Kiwi. Please explain. I know what yer talking about,just not how to perform the test. Thanks,Rubb.
This vid will give you an idea on how to go about cleaning and checking spray pattern etc
I hold the injector a few inches away from a sheet of white paper and crank the engine with the injector connected to the harness connector... the injector will spray every revolution of the engine as it cranks over.
The proper spray pattern is obvious when you see it.
 
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And it will still end up cheaper to ship it, if you get the fueling wrong your motor can end up as a boat anchor.
This is right, it’s critical with a turboed engine that the fueling is slightly on the rich side of the a/f ratio 14.7 to 1.
Usually around 12.5 to 1.
Get it too lean and you will blow the engine to bits (internally)
 
This is right, it’s critical with a turboed engine that the fueling is slightly on the rich side of the a/f ratio 14.7 to 1.
Usually around 12.5 to 1.
Get it too lean and you will blow the engine to bits (internally)

If the fueling is correct now,would there be any harm in cleaning the injectors? That doesn't change the air/fuel ratio right?
 
If the fueling is correct now,would there be any harm in cleaning the injectors? That doesn't change the air/fuel ratio right?
No, no harm in cleaning injectors . . but Andy, pull the spark plugs first and take a look at the colour on the porcelain and if it's sooty around the rim, if possible put up some pics, the colour of the plugs is a window into the mixture of the fuel charge being burnt. You can learn a lot from plugs. But also, fuel pressure and delivery volume is crucial for a proper spray from the injectors.
So test test test. Never just guess.
 
Lean makes power, but too lean makes internal parts external.....

View attachment 1615915
When dealing with turbo engines, err on the side of caution, richer keeps things cooler and minimises the chance of detonation.
Rubb's bike is a street bike and he needs reliability, he can't afford to lean it off to gain power. It gets very costly replacing engines every 5 minutes.
I reckon it makes enough power anyway . . even running rough, lmao!
 
No, no harm in cleaning injectors . . but Andy, pull the spark plugs first and take a look at the colour on the porcelain and if it's sooty around the rim, if possible put up some pics, the colour of the plugs is a window into the mixture of the fuel charge being burnt. You can learn a lot from plugs. But also, fuel pressure and delivery volume is crucial for a proper spray from the injectors.
So test test test. Never just guess.

All understood bro. Plug color,learned when I was 12. White=hot blk=rich nice tan color=sweet. The other tests you speak of I have done.Motor spins easier for tests with plugs out.Do they have to be grounded threads to block or is that unessecary these days? I shall post pics all the way 4 me/us to learn.Could be weeks getting into my buddies shop,he has closed for the Corona/Covid season. :redface::banghead::redface:
 
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