Ok, I got the Speedo Healer installed this evenin'. Of course I took pics.
First of all, if I had it to do again after seein' the Suzuki "plug & go" version I'd save the extra $$ and go with the universal model and just hard wire it in. I may end up cuttin' the plugs off and hard wirin' this one before it's over with. It's so tedious tryin' to get the pins and plugs in right. Then they are only held in by the insulating tape that you wrap them with. Not a very solid connection. In fact, once I got it all wired up and tried to do the output test it wasn't workin'. Sumbich!
I had to tear all the connections back apart to find that one of the plugs had missed the pin it was supposed to slide onto, therefore no connection was made. Since I used self fusing rubber tape around each connector and good rubber sealing insulation tape around the entire connection it was a beeyotch gettin' it all back apart to find the problem. Once I got that connection made and tested it I sealed it all back up with the tape and tested it again. So far it has worked for several tests.
Again, I don't think I'd go with plug & go if I had it to do again unless they had the connector housings for Suzuki harnesses. It's just as big of a beeyotch to use this kit as it would be to hard wire and solder it in. I'm not sure that the connections are very solid as it is. That's why I may end up splicin' it in and solderin' everything and then shrink tubin' it all. I'm not very happy with spending the extra bucks and then havin' to hold it together with tape.
Ok, with all that said, Here are the pics. Not my best because it was late by the time I got goin' and the pics were shot in crappy garage lighting.
First a pic of what's needed to do the install and a list:
<ul>[*]4mm allen wrench for fairing and tank hold down bolts
[*]5mm allen wrench for seat bolts
[*]regular screw driver to pry up plastic push in retainer holding inner fairing to frame
[*]Industrial grade velcro with heavy duty adhesive to attach SH to inside of trunk
[*]3M rubber insulating electrical tape (not standard vinyl electrical tape)
[*]3M self fusing rubber splicing tape
[*]Razor blade to cut tape strips (not shown)[/list]
I started out by proppin' the tank up and gettin' the clutch side fairing, front seat, and hump off and out of the way. Then I simply routed the Speedo Healer cable from the trunk to the area of the speed sensor plug keepin' it with the wiring that goes from the ECU to the engine compartment. No big deal, just fishin' wire through. The red cable in the pic is for the SH.
There are two connectors together where the SH wires in. The green one is the side stand safety switch harness (at least on my '03) and the bigger black connector is the speed sensor harness. Here's a closer shot of the SH cable and the unplugged speed sensor harness.
And another even closer view of the connector...
At this point I simply plugged the SH connectors into the corresponding Suzuki connector housings inline with the proper colored wire according to the instructions that came with the SH unit. Here's a pic of the two types of tape I used. The big roll on the left is the self fusing tape. It fuses into it's self and forms a water tight seal. The smaller roll is the insulating tape. It is thicker than standard vinyl electrical tape and it's rubbery. It, too, seals out moisture.
In this pic I have sealed up the connections with tape and secured them to the other wiring and away from the engine using one of the two tiny zip ties that came with the SH.
Then it was a simple matter of securing the cable to the PCIIIR cable and zippin' it to the subframe usin' the second supplied zip tie.
Another view of the secured PC and SH lines...
Last step in the install was to mount the SH. I wanted it in the trunk but the cable was BARELY long enough to reach. The ONLY place I could put it was on the side of the trunk just above the tank prop rod holding clip on the clutch side wall of the trunk. I had to mount it upside down to use that spot. I really wish the cable had been about 16 inches longer so I could have ran it on back to the rear of the trunk with the PC.
Anyway, to mount the SH unit I cut a piece of industrial grade velcro "hook" material to fit the back of the SH box. Then I cut a matching piece of the "loop" material. Both the back of the SH and the trunk wall were cleaned using denatured alcohol. I put the loop material on the trunk wall and the hook material went on the SH. I press the SH in place and booyah! SH is installed. I did one last test and everything checks out ok!
Here's a pic of the mounted SH...
A quick run through the calculator on the SH site gives me an estimated -12.8% correction factor to start at in fine tuning it to my bike with the 43t sprocket. I have programmed in the -12.8% correction following the instructions on the SH site but it was dark when I finished. I'll have to take it for a spin with the gps unit and compare the speedo to the gps to see how close that gets me.
Fwiw, I went with optomizing for the speedo instead of the odo. I couldn't see buyin' a device to correct the speed only to leave an error in it in favor of the odo...
I'll post how close it is once I get a test ride in tomorrow, pending nice weather of course. Now watch the rain come...
Cheers,
BT
First of all, if I had it to do again after seein' the Suzuki "plug & go" version I'd save the extra $$ and go with the universal model and just hard wire it in. I may end up cuttin' the plugs off and hard wirin' this one before it's over with. It's so tedious tryin' to get the pins and plugs in right. Then they are only held in by the insulating tape that you wrap them with. Not a very solid connection. In fact, once I got it all wired up and tried to do the output test it wasn't workin'. Sumbich!
I had to tear all the connections back apart to find that one of the plugs had missed the pin it was supposed to slide onto, therefore no connection was made. Since I used self fusing rubber tape around each connector and good rubber sealing insulation tape around the entire connection it was a beeyotch gettin' it all back apart to find the problem. Once I got that connection made and tested it I sealed it all back up with the tape and tested it again. So far it has worked for several tests.
Again, I don't think I'd go with plug & go if I had it to do again unless they had the connector housings for Suzuki harnesses. It's just as big of a beeyotch to use this kit as it would be to hard wire and solder it in. I'm not sure that the connections are very solid as it is. That's why I may end up splicin' it in and solderin' everything and then shrink tubin' it all. I'm not very happy with spending the extra bucks and then havin' to hold it together with tape.
Ok, with all that said, Here are the pics. Not my best because it was late by the time I got goin' and the pics were shot in crappy garage lighting.
First a pic of what's needed to do the install and a list:
<ul>[*]4mm allen wrench for fairing and tank hold down bolts
[*]5mm allen wrench for seat bolts
[*]regular screw driver to pry up plastic push in retainer holding inner fairing to frame
[*]Industrial grade velcro with heavy duty adhesive to attach SH to inside of trunk
[*]3M rubber insulating electrical tape (not standard vinyl electrical tape)
[*]3M self fusing rubber splicing tape
[*]Razor blade to cut tape strips (not shown)[/list]
I started out by proppin' the tank up and gettin' the clutch side fairing, front seat, and hump off and out of the way. Then I simply routed the Speedo Healer cable from the trunk to the area of the speed sensor plug keepin' it with the wiring that goes from the ECU to the engine compartment. No big deal, just fishin' wire through. The red cable in the pic is for the SH.
There are two connectors together where the SH wires in. The green one is the side stand safety switch harness (at least on my '03) and the bigger black connector is the speed sensor harness. Here's a closer shot of the SH cable and the unplugged speed sensor harness.
And another even closer view of the connector...
At this point I simply plugged the SH connectors into the corresponding Suzuki connector housings inline with the proper colored wire according to the instructions that came with the SH unit. Here's a pic of the two types of tape I used. The big roll on the left is the self fusing tape. It fuses into it's self and forms a water tight seal. The smaller roll is the insulating tape. It is thicker than standard vinyl electrical tape and it's rubbery. It, too, seals out moisture.
In this pic I have sealed up the connections with tape and secured them to the other wiring and away from the engine using one of the two tiny zip ties that came with the SH.
Then it was a simple matter of securing the cable to the PCIIIR cable and zippin' it to the subframe usin' the second supplied zip tie.
Another view of the secured PC and SH lines...
Last step in the install was to mount the SH. I wanted it in the trunk but the cable was BARELY long enough to reach. The ONLY place I could put it was on the side of the trunk just above the tank prop rod holding clip on the clutch side wall of the trunk. I had to mount it upside down to use that spot. I really wish the cable had been about 16 inches longer so I could have ran it on back to the rear of the trunk with the PC.
Anyway, to mount the SH unit I cut a piece of industrial grade velcro "hook" material to fit the back of the SH box. Then I cut a matching piece of the "loop" material. Both the back of the SH and the trunk wall were cleaned using denatured alcohol. I put the loop material on the trunk wall and the hook material went on the SH. I press the SH in place and booyah! SH is installed. I did one last test and everything checks out ok!
Here's a pic of the mounted SH...
A quick run through the calculator on the SH site gives me an estimated -12.8% correction factor to start at in fine tuning it to my bike with the 43t sprocket. I have programmed in the -12.8% correction following the instructions on the SH site but it was dark when I finished. I'll have to take it for a spin with the gps unit and compare the speedo to the gps to see how close that gets me.
Fwiw, I went with optomizing for the speedo instead of the odo. I couldn't see buyin' a device to correct the speed only to leave an error in it in favor of the odo...
I'll post how close it is once I get a test ride in tomorrow, pending nice weather of course. Now watch the rain come...
Cheers,
BT
