Cruise Control installed, comes on but not engaging. HELP

[rusheriv]

Finished the install of the CCS-100 cruise control from Murphs' Kits, or so I thought.
I've got it mounted and wired, checked and double checked everything, but it will not engage when set is pressed.
Taken it on the road twice now and it just won't set at any speed.
Here's a run down of my troubleshooting:

Mechanicals:
- Servo securely mounted? yes, bolted to frame
- Bracket that holds cable is tight? yes, bolted to frame (used L bracket, with dog leg forward to prevent movement)
- Cable free of kinks or < 4" radius bends? yes, cable makes about 10" loop, moves freely, can hear noise at servo when cable end is push/pulled.
- Cable connected to throttle linkage? yes, with ball chain and small wire loop.
- Vacuum hoses and canister connected? yes, tee'd in to hose that connects to IAPS (Intake Air Pressure Sensor).
- Vacuum reaching servo? yes, sucking sound heard when hose disconnected from servo.

Electronics:
- Servo harness secure? yes, clicked into place.
- Control module harness secure? yes, all pins snapped in connector and male pushed all the way into female.
- Relay connected and functional? yes, connected and clicks when brakes applied.
- All power and ground wires secure? yes, all connections are solid.
- Servo LED functions as described in manual? yes, LED lights when Set or Resume is pressed or when brakes applied.
- Jumper removed? yes, jumper in box with other unused parts.
- DIP switches set proper? yes, 1 on, 2 off, 3 off, 4 on, 5 off, 6 off, 7 on.
- Voltage checked on servo harness? yes, tested with multimeter:

Black wire gounded (connected to negative terminal on battery)
Red wire 12vDC (connected to brown wire on euro connector)
Brown wire 12vDC when ignition and CC on, 0vDC when ignition or CC off (connected to control module connector)
Purple wire 12vDC when brake applied 0vDC when released (connected to relay)
Green wire 12vDC when Set pressed 0vDC when released (connected to control module connector)
Yellow wire 12vDC when Resume pressed 0vDC when released (connected to control module connector)
Blue wire increased voltage with RPM (connected to green wire coil #4)
Grey wire not used, for VSS applications​

- Voltage checked on control module harness? no, but lights work, LED at servo functions proper and voltage from control module at servo end checks good.

Any ideas of what I might of overlooked?
Anything I might of done wrong?

I'm at a loss here guys. I hate to say it, but I think I got a defective servo unit.

 

[thapp]

make sure your purple wire has continuity to ground when ignition on and brakes off then 12 volt when brakes on

 

[theskaz]

what rpm are you trying to set it at?

 

[captain]

Do you have the vacuum on the correct inlet on the canister?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

Sorry your frustrated with it and I hope you get it figured out.
May I ask if all that is listed above are things you had to do to install cruise control on the bike? If so WOW !

 

[rusheriv]

make sure your purple wire has continuity to ground when ignition on and brakes off then 12 volt when brakes on

We may have a winner here! Continuity fails when ignition is switched on and brakes off. The one thing that I didn't check prior because I thought for sure I'd wired the relay in correctly. Funny, there's a caution statement on the diagram Murphs' has on their site, it says relay pin pigtail color may vary with each shipment from Murphs' vendor.

what rpm are you trying to set it at?

The servo is set to limit out at 4K, I'm trying to set in 5th gear between 2.5-3.5K.

Do you have the vacuum on the correct inlet on the canister?

The hose is connected to the nipple marked "MAN", the other nipple marked "AMP" is connected to the servo.

May I ask if all that is listed above are things you had to do to install cruise control on the bike?

It's not that bad. Ah hell, who am I kidding ... there is a lot to it! It's not a plug 'n play deal that's for sure.

 

[Blanca BusaLess]

This seems like one of the more involved 'not for the light hearted' mods out there then.

 

[rusheriv]

This relay thing has me baffled, it loses continuity when the ignition is on.

Here's what I have:
86 & 87a are connected together and then connected to one of ground wires for the tail lights (B/W).
85 & 87 are connected together and then connected to brake light wire (W/B).

Multimeter set to continuity setting.
One probe connected to purple wire at the servo.
Other probe connected to negative terminal of battery.
Ignition off, multimeter beeps (0.2-0.3 Ohms)
Ignition on, multimeter displays OL (Open Loop).

Someone school me, because I don't know what the issue is. How is it that I'm getting an open loop when the ignition is turned on?

 

[captain]

Remember your using the ground to break the cruise not the current side...

 

[captain]

Don't worry about the colors, look at the end of the relay and match these numbers to the location....

87 = Dead end it, just tape the wire so it can't touch anything

85 & 87a = connect them both to ground

30 = connects to the purple wire from the cruise

86 = Connect to the cold side of the stop light switch. If you connect it to the harness just behind the battery it should be a white with black stripe... If you put a test light on it then the light will only come on when you hit the brake....

that should do it...

cap

 

[theskaz]

mine wont set below 3.5k RPMs...

 

[captain]

mine wont set below 3.5k RPMs...

3500 is the minnimum

 

[theskaz]

3500 is the minnimum

I'm trying to set in 5th gear between 2.5-3.5K

Rusheriv, I would test it over 3.5k to make sure that it is not acting the way it is supposed to.

 

[rusheriv]

Okay, I've reconnected the pins on the relay the way captain has described above and everything seems to checkout good: continuity to ground with ignition on, continuity broken when brake applied. Gonna take her out for another test ride this evening. Thanks Cap!

skaz brought up the RPMs and captain confirmed that 3,500 RPM is the minimum. Thanks for bringing that up skaz!
The 3,500 RPM minimum may have been another factor causing it not to engage. With stock gearing I would need to be going between 60 to 70 MPH in 5th gear for the CC to engage, or 65 to 75 MPH in 6th gear. Correct?

As I understand it DIP switches 1 & 2 set a RPM limiter, effectively shutting off the CC if RPMs spike above the switch settings. So with the DIPs set for 4,000 RPM I would only have a 500 RPM range in which the CC will engage (from 3,500 to 4,000).

Is the 3,500 RPM minimum due to the pulse being picked up from only one coil?
Would picking up the pulse signal from 2 or more coils give me a broader (lower) RPM range?

 

[rusheriv]

:bump:

 

[VFRcanada]

Dip switches 1 & 2 set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000 that our bikes put out. It's not the max RPM's.

 

[thapp]

sorry haven't made it back to check on this but cap is right on the money with this

 

[rusheriv]

Dip switches 1 & 2 set the Pulses Per Mile for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000 that our bikes put out. It's not the max RPM's.

I'd read that in the install manual, but I'd also read on another install guide posted at Murphs' that they act as a rev limiter.

 

[rusheriv]

Another NO GO on tonights test ride, servo still not engaging.
Had her in 4th with RPMs up in the 3,500-4,500 range, hit the set button and nada!

Does this have anything to do with anything?
While checking continuity from 87a on the relay to the servo end of the purple wire:

• if harness is unplugged from servo, it's good, purple wire continuity is interupted when brakes applied;
• if harness is plugged into the servo, not good, purple wire continuity is maintained when brakes applied.

Should it be grounding through the servo?

 

[UncleSteve]

Did I ever send you my notes?
How much slack do you have in the cable leading to the throttle?