Need help - can't find solder-on quick disconnects to replace generator connector

IG.

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Since my connector disintegrated from the inside due to excessive heat resulted from poor contact, I used crimp-on insulated quick disconnects to connect the three yellow wires coming from the generator and going to the voltage regulator. I noticed that they are still too warm for comfort at higher rpm, and because of the voltage drop, the voltage on the battery is at times barely more than 13.0V - like at high rpm.

So, I want to replace crimp-on insulated quick disconnect with solder-on insulated quick disconnects for better connection, less heat, and less voltage drop. But guess what? I can't find them anywhere.

Yes, I know I could solder the wires directly, but then if I ever need to disconnect them to test the circuit, or for whatever reason - that would be a pain in the neck.

I checked RadioShack, ebay, various websites - nothing - all of them have a gazzillion crimp-on insulated quick disconnects. My best approach so far is this: I got uninsulated quick disconnects from Ace Hardware, and will simply solder them to the wires, and once connected, I will put electrical tape around them, and enclose each of the three connections in its own insulated tube.

Any suggestions?
 
I've soldered crimp style connectors, best results are whenever I've been able to pull any shielding away, solder wire in, and slide shielding back into place.
 
I've soldered crimp style connectors, best results are whenever I've been able to pull any shielding away, solder wire in, and slide shielding back into place.
As I was gonna say solder the crimp-ons.
 

Thanks. Not exactly what I was looking for - those are heat treated. Never dealt with those. Also, they sell the kit only - $114!

As others suggested, that's my route so far - I will get larger gauge - like 10-12 so the wire with insulation can be fed through. I know I can pull the plastic off with pliers. I may cut a small piece for crimping to get myself more room for soldering. Once soldered, I will pull the plastic piece back on, and then crimp over the wire with isulation so that the connector grips the wire for mechanical strength. My only concern was to be able to solder the metal. I do have a good flux from RadioShack which I think can let you solder rusty nails - LOL.
 
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