Gen 2: Ran fine, now cranks but won't start

[6.2Chevy]

Hey there,

Looking for some ideas on why my 08 Hayabusa won't start. I've had it for about a year and ride it a couple times a month. 16k miles on it, no modifications other than slip-ons and a filter.

Always have had an issue with the clutch lever relay switch being finicky when I start it, but it's never really been a problem because I just have to find the sweet spot(clutch level pull) and it cranks right up when I do.

Took it too a shop to test my battery, they said they could do a simple bypass on it that would fix it so I said go ahead. Turned out to be a paperclip jumper between the leads for the clutch relay switch. I didn't realize that when I drove off, but it did crank immediately without having to find the sweet spot. 5 mins later when I was being lazy and when to accelerate I heard this weird clicking sound and the FI light came on. I went right back to the shop and the mechanic came over and said "oh I was at lunch when you picked it up but I didn't mean for you to drive away with the paperclip jumper plugged in". He took it out and said to take it for a spin.

The FI light stayed off so I figure no harm was done. Put about 50 miles on it after that running errands around town. Next day I went to start it and it would crank but no start. Sounds like it fires one cylinder then immediately dies. Either stops sending fuel or spark after the first cylinder ignites.

Not sure if my trip to the shop is related because of the paperclip jumper OR it's something else......?

I tried a new Cam position sensor and new MAP sensor, neither worked.

Any other ideas? Or should I just try replacing the ECU?

 

[ottafish]

Just my thinking out loud...

Put clutch switch back to factory
(Maybe replace it rather than bodge it up. I hate it when people bypass or hack a fix rather than locate and fix the problem)

Check fuel
Check spark / plugs / coil packs
Check all wiring connections inc earth

You didn't say what the battery test result was either.

As I said, just thinking out loud

 

[6.2Chevy]

Just my thinking out loud...

Put clutch switch back to factory
(Maybe replace it rather than bodge it up. I hate it when people bypass or hack a fix rather than locate and fix the problem)

Check fuel
Check spark / plugs / coil packs
Check all wiring connections inc earth

You didn't say what the battery test result was either.

As I said, just thinking out loud

Clutch switch is reconnected as it should be.

Not seeing fuel come out of

Just my thinking out loud...

Put clutch switch back to factory
(Maybe replace it rather than bodge it up. I hate it when people bypass or hack a fix rather than locate and fix the problem)

Check fuel
Check spark / plugs / coil packs
Check all wiring connections inc earth

You didn't say what the battery test result was either.

As I said, just thinking out loud

Okay so I sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle bodies and got it started. It continued to run fine until I turned it off. I let it sit for 15 mins then started it back up the standard way and it ran fine.

This confirms the relative functionality of the standard components: spark plugs, coils, injectors, fuel pump, gas, etc.

I do not think this will be the last time I come across this issue so I'm still looking for ideas.

Btw: clutch switch relay is set up like normal(no jumper bypass) and the battery was confirmed good.

 

[Bumblebee]

So, it's running ok now?

 

[6.2Chevy]

So, it's running ok now?

Yes, but who knows for how long. I think the problem will come back.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

"I tried a new Cam position sensor and new MAP sensor, neither worked."

"Any other ideas? Or should I just try replacing the ECU?"

Why on Earth would you want to just throw expensive parts at it, in the hope that "maybe this will fix it" . . . . frustrates the crap outta me when I hear this.

If it developed a problem immediately after being in the shop for checks and work performed, AND they allowed you to take it away while it was still being worked on,
(paperclip test) just take it straight back to them and explain what happened and ask them to sort it out.
Please.

Quote "Took it too a shop to test my battery, they said they could do a simple bypass on it that would fix it so I said go ahead. Turned out to be a paperclip jumper between the leads for the clutch relay switch. "
Any shop that suggests by-passing interlock switches to get around a fault, you need to avoid . . . they are not repairing up to a high standard, and are typically known as "Cowboys" in the industry.

 

[Bumblebee]

Yes, but who knows for how long. I think the problem will come back.

Oddly enough the same sort of thing (kind of) happened to me with my Busa. I was going for a ride with my buddy, the bike started up and ran fine to his house 10 miles away, we were about to leave and it wouldn't start. The dash would reset itself (clock and all). I took the battery leads off and cleaned them, unplugged and plugged all my connectors and tried it and it started right up.

We didn't go riding because I didn't trust it to start again, took it home, stripped it and cleaned each and every connector.

Haven't had a problem since thankfully, knock on wood. Still don't really know what caused the issue.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Just an FYI. Bypassing the clutch switch on hayabusas (hand most FI Suzuki’s) uses completely different fuel and ignition tables decreasing power, and generally run poor.

 

[6.2Chevy]

Why on Earth would you want to just throw expensive parts at it, in the hope that "maybe this will fix it" . . . . frustrates the crap outta me when I hear this.

If it developed a problem immediately after being in the shop for checks and work performed, AND they allowed you to take it away while it was still being worked on,
(paperclip test) just take it straight back to them and explain what happened and ask them to sort it out.
Please.

Quote "Took it too a shop to test my battery, they said they could do a simple bypass on it that would fix it so I said go ahead. Turned out to be a paperclip jumper between the leads for the clutch relay switch. "
Any shop that suggests by-passing interlock switches to get around a fault, you need to avoid . . . they are not repairing up to a high standard, and are typically known as "Cowboys" in the industry.

Parts were $25 total from Ebay.

To your point about cowboys of the industry, why would I trust them to "sort it out"?

Calm down bro. You didn't give any helpful ideas. You just complained.

 

[Sandow]

Parts were $25 total from Ebay.

To your point about cowboys of the industry, why would I trust them to "sort it out"?

Calm down bro. You didn't give any helpful ideas. You just complained.

@Kiwi Rider is one of the most helpful guys on this board. On top of it he has also the most knowledge among a handful of others here...- I would listen very closely what he has to say!
But he is tired of people asking for help if they only throw cheap stuff or parts they dont need on their bikes for a fast fix rather then finding out the real problem. We all invest our own time here for free and provide a ton of knowledge and he was absolutely right in his post!
If you decide to go with a crappy shop then go ahead - but dont waste our time. Or sit down and listen closely here and fix your bike!

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Parts were $25 total from Ebay.

To your point about cowboys of the industry, why would I trust them to "sort it out"?

Calm down bro. You didn't give any helpful ideas. You just complained.

Maybe you didn’t know that Kiwi is employed as a certified Hayabusa mechanic that also owns one. As a good honest technician it’s no wonder he has opinions about cowboy mechanics that aren’t really mechanics at all. If a shop did me wrong I’d return it to have them make it right. They’re bound to have someone that knows what he’s doing but if they’re all inept or stupid I’d find another shop if I couldn’t fix it myself.

 

[6.2Chevy]

I'm sure all you fanboys of kiwis are making him very proud, but the truth stands that any "Karen" could suggest taking it back to the "cowboy" mechanic that did the paperclip bypass. That is not what I was looking for in my post.

Cool, he is a certified Hayabusa tech....I used to be an ASE Master tech with a degree in Automotive Technology to back it. If I specialized in Hayabusas like he supposedly does, then I would suggest something helpful like Boosted Cycle Perf. Ideas like that help with troubleshooting. What sensors does the ECU rely on during starting? After ignition? After it's at operating temp? What circuits could be compromised if the relay is stuck closed? Literally ANYTHING.....but no, just whining.

And btw, certified/checked used OEM parts tend to perform better than the aftermarket new replacements. Call them cheap, but if you don't know how to ohm out a used sensor don't throw shade on those who know what they're doing.

 

[Sandow]

I'm sure all you fanboys of kiwis are making him very proud, but the truth stands that any "Karen" could suggest taking it back to the "cowboy" mechanic that did the paperclip bypass. That is not what I was looking for in my post.

Cool, he is a certified Hayabusa tech....I used to be an ASE Master tech with a degree in Automotive Technology to back it. If I specialized in Hayabusas like he supposedly does, then I would suggest something helpful like Boosted Cycle Perf. Ideas like that help with troubleshooting. What sensors does the ECU rely on during starting? After ignition? After it's at operating temp? What circuits could be compromised if the relay is stuck closed? Literally ANYTHING.....but no, just whining.

And btw, certified/checked used OEM parts tend to perform better than the aftermarket new replacements. Call them cheap, but if you don't know how to ohm out a used sensor don't throw shade on those who know what they're doing.

or to say it different - how to screw up as a new member within 5 posts. lol

 

[Bumblebee]

….Ali....is that you?

 

[6.2Chevy]

Update:
I let it sit overnight and went to start it today, same issue. Crank but no start.

I sprayed starter fluid in and it fired up, had to keep revving it to get it to stay running but after 30 seconds it idled find by itself. Turned it off, let it sit 15 mins, and it started fine by itself.

 

[ottafish]

I'm thinking fuel pump, pump filter or dirty injectors
If it started by squirting fluid into the tb's then it's def a fuel issue

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Has this bike had a fuel maintenance? Have you felt any hesitation at hard throttle? Wondering about gunk in the filter. Have the plugs been inspected for fouling?

In general for any engine, these symptoms sounds like tight valves.

 

[Mr Brown]

Parts were $25 total from Ebay.

To your point about cowboys of the industry, why would I trust them to "sort it out"?

Calm down bro. You didn't give any helpful ideas. You just complained.

Posts up asking for help in a public forum, then complains about the response....nice. You could have simply been told to use the search function, or go pay a shop to fix it, but some people here are nicer than that.

I'm sure all you fanboys of kiwis are making him very proud, but the truth stands that any "Karen" could suggest taking it back to the "cowboy" mechanic that did the paperclip bypass. That is not what I was looking for in my post.

Cool, he is a certified Hayabusa tech....I used to be an ASE Master tech with a degree in Automotive Technology to back it. If I specialized in Hayabusas like he supposedly does, then I would suggest something helpful like Boosted Cycle Perf. Ideas like that help with troubleshooting. What sensors does the ECU rely on during starting? After ignition? After it's at operating temp? What circuits could be compromised if the relay is stuck closed? Literally ANYTHING.....but no, just whining.

And btw, certified/checked used OEM parts tend to perform better than the aftermarket new replacements. Call them cheap, but if you don't know how to ohm out a used sensor don't throw shade on those who know what they're doing.

Since you have all these amazing skills already, A) how come you haven't fixed it, and B) why are you on here asking for help. For free. From people you seem determined to alienate.

Update:
I let it sit overnight and went to start it today, same issue. Crank but no start.

I sprayed starter fluid in and it fired up, had to keep revving it to get it to stay running but after 30 seconds it idled find by itself. Turned it off, let it sit 15 mins, and it started fine by itself.

Cool, carry some ether with you every where you go. Problem solved.
Fanboys? Not so much, but we certainly look after our own. Which Kiwi certainly is. You on the other hand, well, that remains to be seen.

You're new here, so I'll make a polite suggestion: start over with an introduction, respect the fact that we (the collective board) know sod all about you and what your background is, and accept the help which will be freely sent your way. This place is different than most other boards, take some time to get to know us and see where you fit in. Being a douche will get you nowhere.

 

[6.2Chevy]

Posts up asking for help in a public forum, then complains about the response....nice. You could have simply been told to use the search function, or go pay a shop to fix it, but some people here are nicer than that.

Since you have all these amazing skills already, A) how come you haven't fixed it, and B) why are you on here asking for help. For free. From people you seem determined to alienate.

Cool, carry some ether with you every where you go. Problem solved.
Fanboys? Not so much, but we certainly look after our own. Which Kiwi certainly is. You on the other hand, well, that remains to be seen.

You're new here, so I'll make a polite suggestion: start over with an introduction, respect the fact that we (the collective board) know sod all about you and what your background is, and accept the help which will be freely sent your way. This place is different than most other boards, take some time to get to know us and see where you fit in. Being a douche will get you nowhere.

I was a douche to kiwi because his response to my post was disrespectful. I was a douche to wuzza and sandow because they were fanboys defending the disrespectful response. I will now be a douche to you because you still dont get the point.

This is a public forum, yes public! I did search through it but could not find anything that matched my exact issue. I am using the forum to help save me time, that's kinda the point. I can go through my wiring harness to check continuity, inspect ever injector screen, check compression, and look up resistance specs for every sensor on the bike because I know how and I will eventually find the problem, BUT I'd rather just do what everyone else does in a forum when they have an issue....ask if anyone has experience/knowledge about it. I will say it again, having someone tell me to take to a mechanic IS NOT helpful. Read a situation carefully before you defend someone blindly.

 

[6.2Chevy]

Has this bike had a fuel maintenance? Have you felt any hesitation at hard throttle? Wondering about gunk in the filter. Have the plugs been inspected for fouling?

In general for any engine, these symptoms sounds like tight valves.

No knowledge of fuel maintenance. Never had any hesitation under heavy throttle, smooth getting up to 150 mph quickly. It starts fine after its warm so that why I hesitate to jump into the tank this early into the diagnosis. Plugs and coils are the next thing I'm inspecting.