Gen 2 build for Texas Mile this Spring

[Salty]

OK So I have the first 8k miles on my 2011 Hayabusa I picked up in March of this year.

Its getting colder here so I can reasonably put her up on stands for some bolt on parts.

Here is what I am looking at adding so far, I am hoping for some recommendations by those who have been running the Texas Mile or the Ohio Mile course to ensure my bike is appropriately ready to try the 200mph run. Whether Im capable of doing it is a whole different subject...lol

Brocks Alien Head Full System or Brocks Short Meg Full System (Pros and Cons please?)
Pair Valve Block Off Plug (Included with Brocks Systems now)
Power Commander V (will be tuned by Smithers Customs in Olathe KS)
+1 Front Sprocket (vortex), -2 Rear Sprocket (steel) - Not 100% sure on those changes please advise (OOPS WAS +2 by Accident)
BMC Race Air Filter
I currently am running a Shinko D007 190/60/17 rear and am looking for tire suggestions to appropriately handle the speed.

I am giong to install a set of Galfer Steel Braided front and rear brake lines for stopping power and possibly throw on a set of EBC HH pads as well depending on what they look like when I strip the bike down for parts installation.

I already have a hard wired GPS installed on the bike, shorty levers, Double Bubble Windscreen, Protek Pegs, New Image Seat and BallZ Fender Eliminator for visual and electric mods.

Anways that is about the list I came up with to do to the bike for my first run, am I missing any important items to add/change prior to first run on my gen 2?

Thanks all.

 

[fiend]

OK So I have the first 8k miles on my 2011 Hayabusa I picked up in March of this year.

Its getting colder here so I can reasonably put her up on stands for some bolt on parts.

Here is what I am looking at adding so far, I am hoping for some recommendations by those who have been running the Texas Mile or the Ohio Mile course to ensure my bike is appropriately ready to try the 200mph run. Whether Im capable of doing it is a whole different subject...lol

Brocks Alien Head Full System or Brocks Short Meg Full System (Pros and Cons please?)
Pair Valve Block Off Plug (Included with Brocks Systems now)
Power Commander V (will be tuned by Smithers Customs in Olathe KS)
+1 Front Sprocket (vortex), +2 Rear Sprocket (steel) - Not 100% sure on those changes please advise
BMC Race Air Filter
I currently am running a Shinko D007 190/60/17 rear and am looking for tire suggestions to appropriately handle the speed.

I am giong to install a set of Galfer Steel Braided front and rear brake lines for stopping power and possibly throw on a set of EBC HH pads as well depending on what they look like when I strip the bike down for parts installation.

I already have a hard wired GPS installed on the bike, shorty levers, Double Bubble Windscreen, Protek Pegs, New Image Seat and BallZ Fender Eliminator for visual and electric mods.

Anways that is about the list I came up with to do to the bike for my first run, am I missing any important items to add/change prior to first run on my gen 2?

Thanks all.

When I ran mine, I ran a power one tire. Your list is pretty good. I'm unsure about the gearing your thinking but Got Busa ran a stock front and a -2 rear sprocket to get to 200. He has a post in what he did to get to 200. I'm sure he will see this thread and comment soon. Just take it easy your first couple of passes and make sure you are ok slowing down. If you run at Wilmington this shouldn't be a problem because of the license passes. BE SAFE and HAVE FUN!!

 

[busabobh]

You will need to get rid of top speed limiter, (ECU flash, or I,m going to say it TRE).

 

[Salty]

You will need to get rid of top speed limiter, (ECU flash, or I,m going to say it TRE).

I have been told this will be turned off during tuning with the Power Commander V.

 

[fiend]

Power commander can not disable the top speed limiter. You will either have to have the ecu flashed or buy a harness from boost by smith which is how I bypassed it

 

[Salty]

Power commander can not disable the top speed limiter. You will either have to have the ecu flashed or buy a harness from boost by smith which is how I bypassed it

Thanks, I believe that the ECU Flash may be the route I was told the tuner would use. I will make sure to bring it up when I book my appointment.

 

[Got-Busa?]

Welcome Salty!

You have a good combo planned to get you started. Click on my build thread in my sig for all of my mods to run 204mph.

Either of those pipes are good from Brock's just depends what look you want. The tune is more important than the tuner whether you go ECUeditor, PCV, whatever. I would recommend -2 rear sprocket because it's easy to change at the track. If you swap the front sprocket and the conditions aren't good you'll want to switch back to get in the 190's at least. Power One is a great tire or OEM works also. I wouldn't run or recommend any Shinko for Land Speed personally. As said already you will need a flash or GPS mod to remove the limiter in 6th, don't use a TRE on a GEN-2.

If you have any more questions or need any help don't be affraid to ask or send me a PM. Look forward to seeing you out at the MILE..

Josh

 

[piratediverjefff]

Alien Head and Short Meg are essentially the same other than the shape of the can,though with the Short Meg you can remove the baffle(one Allen head bolt)whereas it's fixed in place on the Alien Head.

 

[Salty]

Alien Head and Short Meg are essentially the same other than the shape of the can,though with the Short Meg you can remove the baffle(one Allen head bolt)whereas it's fixed in place on the Alien Head.

Is their any power value to removing the baffle or is this specifically a noise compliance thing?

 

[piratediverjefff]

I know of several guys doing LSR(and 1/4 mile)who run it open but not sure of the noticeable gain on a stock motor...on the street definitely a noise compliance thing as it's loud as hell(took mine out and put it right back in).

Meg no baffle #2 001 - YouTube[/url]

 

[isiahstites]

Is their any power value to removing the baffle or is this specifically a noise compliance thing?

When I built my LSR busa I made my own megaphone and it was completely open, made 4 more hp with on it versus off. You want as little as restriction as possible, get as much air and fuel as you can in and get it out as fast as possible.

 

[dadofthree]

Best of luck. Don't forget to safety wire everything.

 

[busabobh]

I did mine in early 08,with an Xtre, it works for me and many others but we get flamed so don,t talk about it much. If I were doing it today I would go with the ecu flash., better product and will do alot more.

 

[mark3evo]

ditch the power commander you only need AKRA 4 into 1 and ECU editor to raise the RPM and derestrict

see this GEN2 Stock apart from above.............203.5mph with a little luck

Bikes Magazine Suzuki GSX1300R 203.5 mph - YouTube[/url]

 

[09GraySilverBusa]

I'd use ECU editor in place of the PComander.
Lowering links for the rear and strap the front down.
The Brocks CT series makes a little more HP then the AH.
Get a +2 and a +1 rear sprocket in case your running into a headwind (very often the case).
Raise Rev limiter as mentioned.
If your tall, ditch the seat and get a Catalyst Racing Composites.com LSR fiberglass seat. Makes a big differnce on the big end of the mile, helping you get down low out of the wind.
Consider a Suzuki touring windscreen if your tall as the additional 1.5" height will also help get the wind over you cleaner.
I wouldn't run a Shinko, as mentioned, either!
Swap your stock velocity stacks out for the short GSX-R1000's (This will cost you a bit of low/nid on the street but it will help up top RPM for LSR.)
VP's MR12 is a good idea as well, but needs it's own tune!

Good luck!!!

 

[Salty]

I appreciate all the advice from everyone on using different methods for tuning. Smithers Customs Owner "Steve Smithers" will be handling all of the tuning for me and has a lot of experience working with the different ECU Editors, PCV's and a few other methods I have mentioned to him. His statement has continued to be that he has had his best sucess and highest Horsepower gains from the PCV so for now his judgement and tuning I will follow.

I have replaced the factory seat with one of the new image seats to lower myself into the seat and have the seat pad that locks me in place better on the bike for launches. I have installed the Double Bubble windscreen and feel comfortable I can get a good tuck underneath of it but may pick up a full touring windshield to see if I notice any difference between runs.

I feel like I dont understand why I would want to swap to the shorter velocity stocks from the GSXR 1000. Would I not be better off having the taller stocks? Can someone explain this to me?

 

[mark3evo]

long stacks add more torque for mid range with less top end.


short stacks more top end less mid range

i think i got that correct

 

[09GraySilverBusa]

long stacks add more torque for mid range with less top end.


short stacks more top end less mid range

i think i got that correct

Correct

If you sit on the bike without a seat at all you will notice an even bigger differance. I ran a Lee's cut down seat for a while.
I ran this year without a seat at all but now have a Catalyst Composites fiberglass seat which is about the same as sitting on the battery and frame rails.

 

[Salty]

What year GSXR1000 do I want to get the Velocity stocks from for my 2011 Hayabusa or does it matter?

Also any recommendations as to where to buy them online?

 

[Johnnycheese]

Correct

If you sit on the bike without a seat at all you will notice an even bigger differance. I ran a Lee's cut down seat for a while.
I ran this year without a seat at all but now have a Catalyst Composites fiberglass seat which is about the same as sitting on the battery and frame rails.