Front fork assembly tool?

[Jimshog]

OK, who has a line on getting the special tool for holding the cartridge while removing the bottom 10mm bolt - Suzuki part number 09940-30221? I'm attempting to install my new gold valve's and the cartridge just spins, I can't get the bolt to loosen. I even tried reassembling the fork to see if spring pressure would hold the cartridge long enough to get the bolt loosened. The local dealership want's $115 for the part.... Wahhhh.... Anybody got any ideas?
Thanks.
-Jim

 

[Wag]

Nope. That's what the tool costs. If you do a search on forks, there are some innovative hand-made tools you can make to do this job and only spend about $10 at the hardware store and a little time with a drill.

--Wag--

 

[Rhythm]

(Jimshog @ Mar. 03 2007,11:53) OK, who has a line on getting the special tool for holding the cartridge while removing the bottom 10mm bolt - Suzuki part number 09940-30221? I'm attempting to install my new gold valve's and the cartridge just spins, I can't get the bolt to loosen. I even tried reassembling the fork to see if spring pressure would hold the cartridge long enough to get the bolt loosened. The local dealership want's $115 for the part.... Wahhhh.... Anybody got any ideas?
Thanks.
-Jim

Here ya go. Cat3 did an excellent write up for a DIY fork change break down.  Professor B (BBBUSA) and I used a pair of tiedown straps to keep the spring compressed for loosening the 10mm bolt.

 

[MX Tuner]

I just use a pneumatic impact. Pops it out in a flash.

 

[yodaonabusa]

does not. im having the same problem. what he's talking about is the cartridge inside, not compressing it and all. we got that far. there's a suzuki special tool that goes down into the tube and holds the cartridge still so you can remove the bottom bolt with an impact wrench. i used an impact wrench and it all just spins, too. it loosened up a little but didnt come completely out, so now im gonna take it to the dealer to do it. might as well.

 

[mike1180]

I replaced my seals according to this thread:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/57010-fork-service-how.html

I didn't take out the cartridge, as it wasn't needed.
When you get to that point, doesn't the end of the cartridge stick out of the fork tube and you just do what the thread says:
"Invert lower fork, holding cartridge rod to the side, and remove the 10mm hex head bolt. There is a copper washer on the bolt."
I didn't see where you would need any tool, but just move it to the side and hold it while you undo the bolt on the bottom.
Correct me if that is wrong.

 

[GIXERHP]

When your trying to remove the cartridge, you need to hold the upper damping rod to the side! Then it will release!

 

[mike1180]

When your trying to remove the cartridge, you need to hold the upper damping rod to the side! Then it will release!

That's what I think too.
Like I said I didn't do it, but it looked like that would work when I had mine apart.

 

[GIXERHP]

That's what I think too.
Like I said I didn't do it, but it looked like that would work when I had mine apart.

Just did 3 set of forks on Saturday, and thats how i do them!

 

[mike1180]

Just did 3 set of forks on Saturday, and thats how i do them!

You're the one to ask then.
Thanks!

 

[yodaonabusa]

ok..first off i said we did that, ok? we held the rod to the side. i even put the cap back on to be sure it held still. the bolt has thred lock on it, so it has a decent amount of torque on it all the way out. the cartridge is spinning because the tube gets warm. i dont care how many anybody has changed and done it whatever way. i know the shop manual says to use a special tool to hold the cartridge still so obviously there is something that CAN spin in there. i am an certified aircraft mechanic and the manual always superceeds whatever advice anybody hands down. im not saying your method doesnt work, but im saying it didnt work for me and the manual tells you to use that tool in the first place. but dont tell me that im wrong when im here and know whats happening with my project. nothing else makes me mad more quickly than someone who wasnt there telling me im wrong. i followed that same thread to a T and the cartridge spins. i need the tool. period.
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[Mr Bogus]

ok..first off i said we did that, ok? we held the rod to the side. i even put the cap back on to be sure it held still. the bolt has thred lock on it, so it has a decent amount of torque on it all the way out. the cartridge is spinning because the tube gets warm. i dont care how many anybody has changed and done it whatever way. i know the shop manual says to use a special tool to hold the cartridge still so obviously there is something that CAN spin in there. i am an certified aircraft mechanic and the manual always superceeds whatever advice anybody hands down. im not saying your method doesnt work, but im saying it didnt work for me and the manual tells you to use that tool in the first place. but dont tell me that im wrong when im here and know whats happening with my project. nothing else makes me mad more quickly than someone who wasnt there telling me im wrong. i followed that same thread to a T and the cartridge spins. i need the tool. period.
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dont get your knickers in a knot... A/P guys tend to get a bit manual happy and they should.. you can not exactly pull a broken airplane to the side of the road and call a tow truck...

In the real world.. a $200 tool that does the same thing as a slight "tilt" on a part? well we use an impact, the tilt and save $200 in tools for a job that you might need the tool twice for in the life of a bike.. (and you can get the job done for less than the price of the tool)

if you own a shop? well buy the thing for petes sake, you will use it all the time.. for the DIY guy? you gotta make allowances... (and yea I owned a shop)

 

[mike1180]

ok..first off i said we did that, ok? we held the rod to the side. i even put the cap back on to be sure it held still. the bolt has thred lock on it, so it has a decent amount of torque on it all the way out. the cartridge is spinning because the tube gets warm. i dont care how many anybody has changed and done it whatever way. i know the shop manual says to use a special tool to hold the cartridge still so obviously there is something that CAN spin in there. i am an certified aircraft mechanic and the manual always superceeds whatever advice anybody hands down. im not saying your method doesnt work, but im saying it didnt work for me and the manual tells you to use that tool in the first place. but dont tell me that im wrong when im here and know whats happening with my project. nothing else makes me mad more quickly than someone who wasnt there telling me im wrong. i followed that same thread to a T and the cartridge spins. i need the tool. period.
Posted via Mobile Device

What's to know?
You are a certified mechanic who goes by the manual, so buy the tool.
It will be about the same price as having the dealer do it, and you will have the tool left over.

 

[yodaonabusa]

i agree with mr bogus, i probably wont need the tool ever again, hopefully. so im going to a shop. the only reason i was going that deep was because of a lowering block kit i purchased which is just the aluminum spacers shortened 1 1\4in...other than that i never would have broken out the impact wrench and held the rod in the first place, just dump n fill.
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[Busrydr]

I believe the Motion Pro Damper Rod Holder tool (Part # 08-0117) is what you're looking for. It works on Showa and Kayaba inverted forks and is the same type of tool as suggested by OEM Suzuki, Yamaha and Honda.