Fork seal replacement tools?

Berlin Germany said:
counterquestion - if one brakedisc (of two) is weak / down / bad do you only change one at car, truck, lorry, bike ?

i guess both . ;)
Click to expand...
The reason I asked was when I called around different Suzuki shops one told me that it was only necessary to change the one but replace oil in both. This is why I asked for expert knowledge on this site to double check what I was being told.
Anyway found a nice dealer in Greenwich London which is according to Suzuki UK website is a Suzuki lite shop since 2018. So decided to go down and have a look . Small place with about 8 demo bikes and a workshop and only 2 workers who seemed genuinely nice people who gave me a tour and I see all the special Suzuki tools hanging on the board so have booked it in there. Added bonus due to me not working that day they told me to bring my license and road test all the demo's,which sounds great to me, shop is called MME Suzuki
 
dave s said:
The reason I asked was when I called around different Suzuki shops one told me that it was only necessary to change the one but replace oil in both. This is why I asked for expert knowledge on this site to double check what I was being told.
Anyway found a nice dealer in Greenwich London which is according to Suzuki UK website is a Suzuki lite shop since 2018. So decided to go down and have a look . Small place with about 8 demo bikes and a workshop and only 2 workers who seemed genuinely nice people who gave me a tour and I see all the special Suzuki tools hanging on the board so have booked it in there. Added bonus due to me not working that day they told me to bring my license and road test all the demo's,which sounds great to me, shop is called MME Suzuki
Click to expand...

I'de take my forks there for that!
As in I didn't have to do it myself...And I get to ride any or all of their 8 bikes while I wait.
I'de almost pay for that! lmao
That does sound good though, congrats on finding a decent dealer.
 
dave s said:
The reason I asked was when I called around different Suzuki shops one told me that it was only necessary to change the one but replace oil in both. (...)
Click to expand...

Oh, dude

how big is the chance that the second seal, which is usually at/of the same age and under the same load, will also become defective very shortly after the first one and will also have to be replaced?

So - if you are already working at the fork and dismantle one leg , you should also have the other leg revised (or have it done).
(same like at the car´s/truck´s/... brakelight - if one cracks , a real good mechanic renews the still working one at the other side in same "minute")

and what about changing the oil in the fork every 4 years, at the latest 5 years, because after this time the oil is only as good as water and 100% has to be changed in any case?

read other maintenance charts from other manufacturers - there you will often find the entry "fork oil change every 4 years / every 25000 km" (whatever is reached at first)

why some manufacturers do not mention this in their charts is a mystery to me, because a lifetime oil filling CAN! never give it

and this insanity goes even further , which I can prove .

see the zxr600 from kawa - I have two ORIGINAL ! manuals and one of them mentions changing the fork oil and the other doesn't - it's sheer mockery!

ALL damn oil and fat at a bike´s chassis has to be renewed / changed after 4-5 years (lately) - who ever says later is ok , is a damn idiot .

oil basically weakens over its age no matter if used or stored in the shadowed and colled shelf !
strong example - if a brand new bike stood for +4 years in a shop and u wanna buy it force the seller to change the fork oil because it's just rubbish / scrubb.
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
Oh, dude

how big is the chance that the second seal, which is usually at/of the same age and under the same load, will also become defective very shortly after the first one and will also have to be replaced?

So - if you are already working at the fork and dismantle one leg , you should also have the other leg revised (or have it done).
(same like at the car´s/truck´s/... brakelight - if one cracks , a real good mechanic renews the still working one at the other side in same "minute")

and what about changing the oil in the fork every 4 years, at the latest 5 years, because after this time the oil is only as good as water and 100% has to be changed in any case?

read other maintenance charts from other manufacturers - there you will often find the entry "fork oil change every 4 years / every 25000 km" (whatever is reached at first)

why some manufacturers do not mention this in their charts is a mystery to me, because a lifetime oil filling CAN! never give it

and this insanity goes even further , which I can prove .

see the zxr600 from kawa - I have two ORIGINAL ! manuals and one of them mentions changing the fork oil and the other doesn't - it's sheer mockery!

ALL damn oil and fat at a bike´s chassis has to be renewed / changed after 4-5 years (lately) - who ever says later is ok , is a damn idiot .

oil basically weakens over its age no matter if used or stored in the shadowed and colled shelf !
strong example - if a brand new bike stood for +4 years in a shop and u wanna buy it force the seller to change the fork oil because it's just rubbish / scrubb.
Click to expand...
Point taken , it's going in for new seals and oil on both legs

On the point of oil changes the manufacturers seem to be saying a lot of oil is sealed for life,example
Land rover diffs and gearbox oil every 24000 miles, now life of vehicle and same for BMW
Also on my Honda pcx there is no mention of ever changing the final drive oil on the service chart
Is this to lower the service cost to make the vehicle look more economical to the detriment of the vehicle
 
dave s said:
(...)
the manufacturers seem to be saying a lot of oil is sealed for life,example
(...)
Click to expand...

nothing ! is sealed for life - esp. the oil

and remember allways.

with a lifetime filling, the manufacturers assume that a car e.g. lasts a maximum of 180,000 km and is then more or less scrap.

and THAT is sheer nonsense
my '07 audi A6 3.0 tdi (diesel) now has 284,000 km on the odometer and runs perfectly,
in addition, a large part of the chassis is made of aluminum or fully galvanized steel - a few weeks ago I looked underneath and everything looks as if it had only driven 50,000 km.
so what's the nonsense about lifetime?

or this unspeakable announcement that motor oil could stay in it for 30 or even 40,000 km.
i change the oil every 10,000 km - so I can only do it myself, the costs for the oil + filter - makes a total of approx. 120 € + a 3/4 hour work.

care / maintenance is the best way to save a lot of money in the long run.

because how much does a new car cost these days?
e.g. in my case an audi a6 3.0 tdi ?
an unbelievable amount of money if you want to have the same vehicle class again.

back to bike (haya)
also look at the needle bearings / spacers of the suspension strut linkage.
if you have a lot of bad luck they are all due and then it gets expensive
material about 300€ + about 4 hours of work

happy is the one who can do it himself, but woe to him if he has to go to the workshop with it

and all because there is nothing in the chart about re-greasing these bearings
etc.
etc.
f..k 4 all that
switch on ur brain and start to think like a mechanic.
 
dave s said:
Point taken , it's going in for new seals and oil on both legs

On the point of oil changes the manufacturers seem to be saying a lot of oil is sealed for life,example
Land rover diffs and gearbox oil every 24000 miles, now life of vehicle and same for BMW
Also on my Honda pcx there is no mention of ever changing the final drive oil on the service chart
Is this to lower the service cost to make the vehicle look more economical to the detriment of the vehicle
Click to expand...
My brother was saying the shaft drive on new BMWs are not serviceable and at certain kms, they have to be replaced at a crazy cost...

He scoffed at this but knows 3 BMW owners (2 RTs and a GS) that had their final drives go out when they didn't change them...
 
Berlin Germany said:
nothing ! is sealed for life - esp. the oil

and remember allways.

with a lifetime filling, the manufacturers assume that a car e.g. lasts a maximum of 180,000 km and is then more or less scrap.

and THAT is sheer nonsense
my '07 audi A6 3.0 tdi (diesel) now has 284,000 km on the odometer and runs perfectly,
in addition, a large part of the chassis is made of aluminum or fully galvanized steel - a few weeks ago I looked underneath and everything looks as if it had only driven 50,000 km.
so what's the nonsense about lifetime?

or this unspeakable announcement that motor oil could stay in it for 30 or even 40,000 km.
i change the oil every 10,000 km - so I can only do it myself, the costs for the oil + filter - makes a total of approx. 120 € + a 3/4 hour work.

care / maintenance is the best way to save a lot of money in the long run.

because how much does a new car cost these days?
e.g. in my case an audi a6 3.0 tdi ?
an unbelievable amount of money if you want to have the same vehicle class again.

back to bike (haya)
also look at the needle bearings / spacers of the suspension strut linkage.
if you have a lot of bad luck they are all due and then it gets expensive
material about 300€ + about 4 hours of work

happy is the one who can do it himself, but woe to him if he has to go to the workshop with it

and all because there is nothing in the chart about re-greasing these bearings
etc.
etc.
f..k 4 all that
switch on ur brain and start to think like a mechanic.
Click to expand...
Hi. I have 507000 K on my 2006 Civic runs very good. On the race/street busa at the land speed races I will chang the oil every day that I race
Berlin Germany said:
nothing ! is sealed for life - esp. the oil

and remember allways.

with a lifetime filling, the manufacturers assume that a car e.g. lasts a maximum of 180,000 km and is then more or less scrap.

and THAT is sheer nonsense
my '07 audi A6 3.0 tdi (diesel) now has 284,000 km on the odometer and runs perfectly,
in addition, a large part of the chassis is made of aluminum or fully galvanized steel - a few weeks ago I looked underneath and everything looks as if it had only driven 50,000 km.
so what's the nonsense about lifetime?

or this unspeakable announcement that motor oil could stay in it for 30 or even 40,000 km.
i change the oil every 10,000 km - so I can only do it myself, the costs for the oil + filter - makes a total of approx. 120 € + a 3/4 hour work.

care / maintenance is the best way to save a lot of money in the long run.

because how much does a new car cost these days?
e.g. in my case an audi a6 3.0 tdi ?
an unbelievable amount of money if you want to have the same vehicle class again.

back to bike (haya)
also look at the needle bearings / spacers of the suspension strut linkage.
if you have a lot of bad luck they are all due and then it gets expensive
material about 300€ + about 4 hours of work

happy is the one who can do it himself, but woe to him if he has to go to the workshop with it

and all because there is nothing in the chart about re-greasing these bearings
etc.
etc.
f..k 4 all that
switch on ur brain and start to think like a mechanic.
Click to expand...
Hi. I have 507000 + K on my 2006 Cicic oil changed every 3000 miles. Runs good. The race/street busa I will change the oil every day that I race 3 or 4 times while racing.
 
We'll bike went in and had the seals replaced 2 hours labour plus parts and MOT £237
One worker off sick and the mechanic was on his own so decided to just take one bike for the day so I picked this

IMG20230803162934.jpg
 
To me it felt like a big Motorcross bike, accelerating out of bends became addictive but on the motorway it soon run out of puff and even with the screen on its maximum was buffeted which would be a problem after any long distance. Took my son in law out for his first ride on a motorcycle and he couldn't believe the pickup.
 
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