Forks position

[Naresh gangwani]

Guys i need help in this
Picture no 1— is when my bikes forks fitting is stock as u can c the preload and rebound adjuzter are located under that black handle bar cover

Picture no 2 — is when i change the fork seal as it was leaking after changing both the fork seal and dust seal mechanic has fitted the fork a bit up ......then before as the preload and rebound adjuster are seen at the top of that black handle bar cover
So it ok or i shud open up and pull down the fork bar slightly down ..????

 

[HayaWakened]

Pic #2 looks like a healthy setup, but I am not the expert here

 

[MC MUSTANG]

With the two pics at different angles, it is hard to tell if the fork position in the clamp has changes or if the preload adjustment has been changed only. A few questions:
1. Who removed the forks to change the seals?
2. Did whoever removed the forks measure or mark the position of the forks in the clamp before removal?
3. When they changed the fork seals, did they zero out the preload and the compression/rebound adjusters (Counting and noting the turns/clicks) or just take the cap off?
4. When they re-assembled everything, did they return the forks to the previous settings?

I am asking these questions, because if someone did your seals and made adjustments, they should know the starting and ending points. If there have been adjustments to your forks that you didn't ask for or understand, then you should check sag and then check rebound and compression.

 

[busafan08]

Looks like the tubes have been raised up a bit maybe 10mm which is OK if you want a slightly more quicker steering response you can easily lower them if you want by loosening the bolts that secure the tubes to the triple tree Don t forget to raise the front wheel

 

[Mythos]

Mine have not been moved since I purchased the bike. The preload adjusters are below the crown cover like yours are shown in pic no 1.

With your forks raised, you will probably notice the bike turn in more swiftly. You are also sacrificing some ground clearance at the front of the bike. The chin of the lower fairings and the oil drain plug are more vulnerable to scraping. Careful going up the skirt into parking lots and coming down from wheelies. I would raise my forks but the reduced clearance is what stops me from doing it.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Its not a huge deal Naresh. For the casual rider you are not even going to notice a difference.You have lost a small amount of clearance. More of a looks thing unless you are a serious track guy.
If you want to adjust them just do one fork at a time by loosing the bolts on one fork leg,adjust,tighten,move to the other. Don't loosen both forks at the same time unless your bike is suspended by a stand with a pin that goes into the bottom of the triple tree or the old tripod method which is,weight of the bike on back tire,oil pan,side stand. Probably not the way to go for a novice.
Rubb.

 

[Mythos]

Its not a huge deal Naresh. For the casual rider you are not even going to notice a difference.You have lost a small amount of clearance. More of a looks thing unless you are a serious track guy.
If you want to adjust them just do one fork at a time by loosing the bolts on one fork leg,adjust,tighten,move to the other. Don't loosen both forks at the same time unless your bike is suspended by a stand with a pin that goes into the bottom of the triple tree or the old tripod method which is,weight of the bike on back tire,oil pan,side stand. Probably not the way to go for a novice.
Rubb.

If you move the forks at all, the only way to do it is with a steering pivot stand. You have to take the axle out, the bike has to be supported on something that lets the forks move. Unless you hang the bike from something with straps on the frame or do the oil pan lift, I can see no other way.

I never liked the idea of holding the bike up on a floor jack under the oil pan. If it bends even a little, you could be sacrificing performance and you might never know it.

 

[rubbersidedown]

If you move the forks at all, the only way to do it is with a steering pivot stand. You have to take the axle out, the bike has to be supported on something that lets the forks move. Unless you hang the bike from something with straps on the frame or do the oil pan lift, I can see no other way.

I never liked the idea of holding the bike up on a floor jack under the oil pan. If it bends even a little, you could be sacrificing performance and you might never know it.

Actually @Mythos you just leave the bike on its side stand,no jacking no nuttin. Loosen the pinch bolts on the triple tree's holding one fork tube. Pull down or push up the tube to the desired height. Have buddies or have it tied or whatever to be safe. Forks float together true...but can also float independant of one another of loosened.Make sense?
Jacking a bike up by way of the oil pan is not for the faint of heart,bad shi7 can happen. Sorry to correct you again but,oil pans do not bend. They are cast...they crack and break.
The tripod method does work fine...been doing it for years...did it last Friday on my bike. (new front tire)

Trust me bro...been workin' on all the big bikes for years....

Rubb.

 

[busafan08]

A centrestand helps tremendously in these situations Half the battle is getting the bike stable

 

[rubbersidedown]

A centrestand helps tremendously in these situations Half the battle is getting the bike stable

I don't think they were ever standard equipment,but it was something that could be installed. Do you have one busafan?
Rubb.

 

[Mythos]

Actually @Mythos you just leave the bike on its side stand,no jacking no nuttin. Loosen the pinch bolts on the triple tree's holding one fork tube. Pull down or push up the tube to the desired height. Have buddies or have it tied or whatever to be safe. Forks float together true...but can also float independant of one another of loosened.Make sense?

You have the front supported on the front wheel and you loosen the fork clamps? It might slide right through if you move the forks at all. There's at least 30% of the bike's weight on the front tire. How do you get the forks to drop if you raise them too much, lift the front by hand with the bike on the side stand? No thanks. Loosen one fork tube, you might get that fork to move up a few millimeters but it will bind in the fork clamps and also on the axle that must still be connecting both fork bottoms. Nope, I'm not getting that. Sounds hard on the equipment at best but maybe I'm missing something.

 

[busafan08]

I don't think they were ever standard equipment,but it was something that could be installed. Do you have one busafan?
Rubb.

Yes on my 14 and on my Wing I remember the time when I had both wheels of my ex 08 busa and shall i say I had some poop moments first and last time I ever did that on that bike I know they are not every ones cup of tea but they sure are practical

 

[rubbersidedown]

Yes on my 14 and on my Wing I remember the time when I had both wheels of my ex 08 busa and shall i say I had some poop moments first and last time I ever did that on that bike I know they are not every ones cup of tea but they sure are practical

Totally practical. Chain cleaning,rear tire changes,tons of stuff on the azz end. I used to put bikes up on the center stand and get a fat buddy to sit on the back (give him a few beers,bag of pork rinds) that raises the front,do all the front end work ya want.
Rubb.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Have you guys noticed Naresh aint answerin'??
He's probably so confused with all the conflicting answers he's now hiding under his Mum's bed. . . .
Here's my advice for what it's worth . . Naresh, take your bike to the mechanic that did the fork seals job and ask him to fix the problem with the adjuster.
You asked why it wasn't working properly, I showed you the diagram, take it to the mechanic and talk to him about it, OK?
Good, thank goodness that's sorted out

 

[Berlin Germany]

Guys i need help in this
Picture no 1— is when my bikes forks fitting is stock as u can c the preload and rebound adjuzter are located under that black handle bar cover

Picture no 2 — is when i change the fork seal as it was leaking after changing both the fork seal and dust seal mechanic has fitted the fork a bit up ......then before as the preload and rebound adjuster are seen at the top of that black handle bar cover
So it ok or i shud open up and pull down the fork bar slightly down ..????

View attachment 1628019

View attachment 1628023

greets to india

at 1st - the preload and rebound adjustment seemingly is like in the manual. - so lean back - it is okay!

then have a look at the apending pdf and the measure "a" at page 2B-3 (lh side / column)

your mechanic (or you ) , i guess, pushed the fork up to the "cover", handlebar holder plate as like as at the gen1

yes in principle this is "wrong" but it is no danger for you - it only gives the busa a very little bit more agility
and - eventually - you get a very, very little bit more vibrations into the handlebars because the fork´s ends seem to touch the cover / handlebar holder now.
(to meassure this "a" corectly, you have to disassemble the top cover
or, without that fuggly work, you push the fork´s legs into by "over the thumb" measuring)


i did this change at a gen2 for more agility a bit more extreme (15mm / ~1/2") - see this pic.
blocks = 15 mm high / allen bolts (and nuts) new and 15 mm longer than original
at the bolts ´n nuts it doesn´t matter if they have metric or inch threads - i only recommend to buy them in good stainless quality (a2 - 70)

last and best hint - get the entire gen2´s manual (incl. abs part) as your busa bible for wrenching and follow it line by line.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Have you guys noticed Naresh aint answerin'??
He's probably so confused with all the conflicting answers he's now hiding under his Mum's bed. . . .
Here's my advice for what it's worth . . Naresh, take your bike to the mechanic that did the fork seals job and ask him to fix the problem with the adjuster.
You asked why it wasn't working properly, I showed you the diagram, take it to the mechanic and talk to him about it, OK?
Good, thank goodness that's sorted out

Anytime you wanna stop being right all the time...stop being the voice of reason...we'd all appreciate it....get's a bit boring...
PERFECT ADVICE Greg once again. You know we're going to expect this every time right? I'm gonna stop answering all this pesky tech stuff, yukk.
Naresh is not mechanically minded and thats OK. Take it back to the tech for sortment. We all wondered off on other tangents as per usual.
Sorry Naresh...don't beat us...

Rubb.

 

[Naresh gangwani]

With the two pics at different angles, it is hard to tell if the fork position in the clamp has changes or if the preload adjustment has been changed only. A few questions:
1. Who removed the forks to change the seals?
2. Did whoever removed the forks measure or mark the position of the forks in the clamp before removal?
3. When they changed the fork seals, did they zero out the preload and the compression/rebound adjusters (Counting and noting the turns/clicks) or just take the cap off?
4. When they re-assembled everything, did they return the forks to the previous settings?

I am asking these questions, because if someone did your seals and made adjustments, they should know the starting and ending points. If there have been adjustments to your forks that you didn't ask for or understand, then you should check sag and then check rebound and compression.

Suzuki mechanic did the fork work
Yesterday again i want to the service station and told him to have a look on service mannual book ...and then he removed again and fitting it back as the factory settings
It was written in the book that the fork tune should be 5 mm above the upper fork clip .. so it is now set as the factory settings.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Anytime you wanna stop being right all the time...stop being the voice of reason...we'd all appreciate it....get's a bit boring...
PERFECT ADVICE Greg once again. You know we're going to expect this every time right? I'm gonna stop answering all this pesky tech stuff, yukk.
Naresh is not mechanically minded and thats OK. Take it back to the tech for sortment. We all wondered off on other tangents as per usual.
Sorry Naresh...don't beat us...View attachment 1628113
Rubb.

Sorry for being the voice of reason Rubb, but I have been dealing with situations like this for many years and always look for the best outcome for both the customer (with the problem) and myself/the business.
Everything you guys said was spot on, but I could see it from Naresh's point of view and the rest is history.
It's so good that he took it back to the mechanic and it was all sorted out . . .
that gives me a glow and I feel useful as a member here, so please don't beat me Rubb, I just want to see successful outcomes to problems anyone here has.
All good buddy, still love ya lol.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Sorry for being the voice of reason Rubb, but I have been dealing with situations like this for many years and always look for the best outcome for both the customer (with the problem) and myself/the business.
Everything you guys said was spot on, but I could see it from Naresh's point of view and the rest is history.
It's so good that he took it back to the mechanic and it was all sorted out . . .
that gives me a glow and I feel useful as a member here, so please don't beat me Rubb, I just want to see successful outcomes to problems anyone here has.
All good buddy, still love ya lol.

My jokes are lacking sometimes.You my friend are one of the top techs I know.Your one of the "Go-To Guys" on this forum.
Being in business with you would be a blast...I could break shi7 and you could fix it. You'd have garantee'd work for life.
party on my island brother...
Rubb.

 

[Dopey]

Guys i need help in this
Picture no 1— is when my bikes forks fitting is stock as u can c the preload and rebound adjuzter are located under that black handle bar cover

Picture no 2 — is when i change the fork seal as it was leaking after changing both the fork seal and dust seal mechanic has fitted the fork a bit up ......then before as the preload and rebound adjuster are seen at the top of that black handle bar cover
So it ok or i shud open up and pull down the fork bar slightly down ..????

View attachment 1628019

View attachment 1628023

This actually answers a question I had awhile back about if this could be done. I'm thinking song with my 1 inch raising links and a few extra mm from sliding the forks up may help a little more with some turns. Kind of wish I would have caught this sooner so I could have had you try and find out how many mm above the clamp it was at.