Fork disassembly..shop got it wrong.

[Tufbusa]

Tuf,

Please be assured that if I had the tools to do the job then I would have done it myself...

however..

the left side rebound adjuster was NOT functioning correctly when I had the bike back. It wasn't simply a case of being in the wrong position. Regardless of the fact that the left side was found to be at least 10 turns out and the right correctly set at 3 out, if we wound them both in to the stop the right would immediately click once wound out however the left would have to pass at least 10 full turns until it started to click at all. You could almost feel the position where it might have clicked but it didnt and there was no resistance to the screw........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Coming back off throttle at high speed and hitting bumps the bike behaved dreadfully bad to the point that I was seriously worried for my safety.

Im not bothered about asking questions because there is lots of knowledge on the forum but I do know when something is very wrong and when it puts my (and others) personal safety at risk then it needs dealing with.

I made the very same mistake on my GSXR the first time I did the leg.

Beast.

As long as they make you happy, that's all that counts!

 

[2Wheels2Live]

Tuf,

Please be assured that if I had the tools to do the job then I would have done it myself...

however..

the left side rebound adjuster was NOT functioning correctly when I had the bike back. It wasn't simply a case of being in the wrong position. Regardless of the fact that the left side was found to be at least 10 turns out and the right correctly set at 3 out, if we wound them both in to the stop the right would immediately click once wound out however the left would have to pass at least 10 full turns until it started to click at all. You could almost feel the position where it might have clicked but it didnt and there was no resistance to the screw........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Coming back off throttle at high speed and hitting bumps the bike behaved dreadfully bad to the point that I was seriously worried for my safety.

Im not bothered about asking questions because there is lots of knowledge on the forum but I do know when something is very wrong and when it puts my (and others) personal safety at risk then it needs dealing with.

I made the very same mistake on my GSXR the first time I did the leg.

Beast.

Unfortunately you're stuck in the bad shop loop. Now that you've had an inferior shop screw up you're fork you're stuck with trying to get them to fix it right...which will most likely not happen. At least not without a lot of hassle and stress on both sides. Thats the problem that comes from dealing with the majority of shops, you never know which monkey is going to be working on your bike till its too late. Then you get stuck in the loop you're in I gave up on shops when I first started riding bikes, I learned young they were bad news

 

[Vindaloobeast]

Well, in the UK we have Trading Standards on our side but part of the process of a fix is to ask them to remedy the issue even if you are not comfortable with them. Ive done just that and will find out tomorrow if Im happy or not but Im in the service industry myself and mistakes do happen with a happy fix afterwards. If I am still unhappy then I will be taking the issue to a suspension specialist and reclaiming the money in the small claims court which is fine under £1000.

Fingers crossed people.

Beast.

 

[2Wheels2Live]

Good game plan Beast. Sometimes its best just to walk away from a place thats obviously not able to do the job, and go to a place that is....and save yourself a bunch of stress. Then get your money back later. Or if its a small amount write it off as a lesson learned.

 

[mr8ball]

Fork Seal Replacement TO SEND-1.pdf (2.09 MB, 9 views) Sorry it does not work.
Its pretty easy to make your own. 06busa and I did it in about 20 minutes. Copy the fork seal and paste it in the search on here and it will come up. Its about half way down the page. Good luck

 

[mr8ball]

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/133712-big-props-forum.html

Here is the link for it

 

[Vindaloobeast]

Thanks for that........note on page 18 from 19 it mentions the importance of the 11mm of thread otherwise adjustment range will be hindered. I notice they didnt mention backing out the rebound adjuster screw though..

By the time you are getting up in the USA I will probably have picked it up and will know the score.

Beast.

 

[Vindaloobeast]

Right...got the bike back now...allegedly with a new cap however it looks like the old one to me but it all works just fine now however Ive not tried the whole range of adjustment.

More importantly the bike handles perfectly at speed now so 160mph feels solid as a rock.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Bike needs a clean then I'll post some pics along with m 1981 RD350LC.

Beast.

 

[delbert]

Right...got the bike back now...allegedly with a new cap however it looks like the old one to me but it all works just fine now however Ive not tried the whole range of adjustment.

More importantly the bike handles perfectly at speed now so 160mph feels solid as a rock.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Bike needs a clean then I'll post some pics along with m 1981 RD350LC.

Beast.

like to see the lc , beast , been building one myself for the last 4 years ,
glad alls well with the busa now

 

[Vindaloobeast]

I bought this LC in 2005 with alleged 'carb issues'. After many hours of fettling the carbs it became clear one was blocked. I bought a donor set and it still wasn't right and had a horrible splutter at about 4-5k..

After many hours I managed to blag a DTI and prove the crank was twisted. I had the crank repaired and welded..the weld snapped some 30 miles after the rebuild so it had to be done again. The crank fitting must have been slightly teardropped cos it would run fine one moment and then splutter and pop again. Once the new crank was in I discovered the needlevalves in the donor carbs were Donald Ducked in as much if you turned the carb upside down the valve showed no resistance to the float and this meant that is wasn't damping the fuel. I fitted new valves and presto the splutter was gone. It took a while to set up because I had the barrels ported (mild with no head work) and crankcases matched to the barrels but the bike wont run with any form of filter or lid on the airbox.

Its now sweet but far from mint because they never were from new. I bought it to use. Pics show transfer work and intakes are ground for YPVS induction.

Enjoy.