Fork disassembly..shop got it wrong.

Vindaloobeast

Registered
Gents, you may recall I posted ref a weepy fork seal and the dealer repaired the ONE side prior to me picking it up last weekend. Anyhow, due to work and weather today is the first chance I have had to ride it properly and give it some beans. I noticed with bike was very firm on the front end but did a few miles and then went home to check the suspension settings. One compression screw line was horizontal but on the other leg vertical so I thought maybe they were out and checked them. They were indeed both 9 clicks out but the left side adjuster was very hard to turn..bear this in mind. Anyway being a bit fussy I decided to check the preload and rebound damping. Preload was 5 (factory) and the right side rebound 3 loud pronounced clicks out (factory) HOWEVER the left side was about 10 turns of the screw out..!!!!!!! WTF..!! Anyway I wound it all the way in and backed it out expecting to hear clicks..after about 7 full anticlcokwise rotations I get the first click but you could ALMOST feel notches before but not of any description. Something is very wrong.

Anyway, a bit upset (kind words), I called the dealer who asked me to take it down and I met up with the mechanic. He told me they didn't back off the preload or mess with the settings prior to changing the fork seal and just undid the cap, fixed the seal and bolted it all back on the bike. Now I do recall on my GSXR something about recallibrating the damping rod prior to reassembly.

I asked the dealer if they had a manual but was told that they didnt hold one as they are a Honda dealership..!!!!!!!!! How did they know the fork oil level etc etc then...Im REALLY BOTHERED NOW. They have my bike there with a view to working on it sometime this week but Im bothered that it wont get done properly. He said there is some kind of lock-nut underneath the cap and it can be adjusted from there.........IM SURE THIS IS INCORRECT.

Does anyone have a copy of the disassembly and reassembly instructions from the manual that they could email to me or post on here so I can print it off and take into the dealer please ?

A worried man.
 
Gen 1 and 2 manuals are available here. Someone will be along shortly to provide you with a link.
 
Gen 1 and 2 manuals are available here. Someone will be along shortly to provide you with a link.

Forgot to mention its a 2007 UK K7 in case it matters. Ive managed to find some info online and it says 'CAUTION..ensure rebound damper is set to softest setting prior to reassembly'....thats obviously what they didnt do....I wonder what else they didnt do...?

Links for a manual please guys...desperate.

Thanks..Beast.
 
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Thanks for that..Ive just found a link for a 2003.pdf from CarlSalter.com

http://www.carlsalter.com/aaman/Suzuki_GSX1300R_Hayabusa_Service_Manual_1999-2003.pdf

Its taking ages to download.......Im going to make a fuss in the shop on Monday morning...believe me I aint happy...proper upset now. Why should I have to do it...its their screw up..!!!!!!!?????? Good job I noticed it now before the 3 month warranty is up.

Beast.

:laugh:I was gonna put new fork seals in my friends 09 GSXR1000 a couple weeks ago, but I didn't have time for a couple days. Suprisingly the local dealer did(where he bought it new) It only took them 1 day!
Well, it's been almost 2 weeks now, he was supposed to pick it up today, haven't heard how that went yet.:rofl:
The forks either bottomed out very hard, or bounced like a pogo stick...now matter how you set them. Oh yeah, they also spilled something that ate the paint off some of the plastic. Pretty pathetic, it's most dealers, sadly the good dealerships are few and far between. You're not alone.
 
Im wondering if thats how the fornt of the rev counter got marked...like a watermark...hmmm...!

Anyhow the link I posted just crashed my pc and I have to start again.

Beast.
 
If you still need it and no one has responded, just comment on this post again later. That way it will get more eyes on it. Eventually someone will post the link to the gen1 manual. Lots of folks here have it. Good luck
 
Having real problems getting this down at 3kb/sec...keeps crashing..

Anyone have another link cos Im on 10meg and it should fly in.

Beast.
 
:laugh:I was gonna put new fork seals in my friends 09 GSXR1000 a couple weeks ago, but I didn't have time for a couple days. Suprisingly the local dealer did(where he bought it new) It only took them 1 day!
Well, it's been almost 2 weeks now, he was supposed to pick it up today, haven't heard how that went yet.:rofl:
The forks either bottomed out very hard, or bounced like a pogo stick...now matter how you set them. Oh yeah, they also spilled something that ate the paint off some of the plastic. Pretty pathetic, it's most dealers, sadly the good dealerships are few and far between. You're not alone.
Yep about 99% of the dealers out there are pure crap.....can barely replace a tire without destroying your rim let alone anything more complex. Its a VERY sad state of affairs :banghead: :moon: Thats why I do all my own work :thumbsup:
 
Ive got a manual now thanks everyone. Ive made a point of printing off the instructions on how to do it properly and ringing it all in red ink saying 'please check' just to be a little insulting.

I cant do the job myself as I have no tools but Im really angry these people get away with it. What really pissed me off is the guy tried telling me he was gonna fix it by mucking it up further by moving the locknut..!!!

I got a manual off here too now on cd so I'll ask them if they want a copy..hahahaah..!


Fear not, it happens in fighter aircraft too...pilots have to fly upside down to see if they have any FOM (foreign object matter) in the cockpit after maintenance...lets hope its not the canopy bolts hey..!

Beast.
 
Might want to think about sending it to someone for an upgrade. This stealership sounds like bad news. I still wouldn't trust them to get it right...

Did you buy it there? How can they be a Honda dealership selling Suzukis?
 
They sell allsorts and I did buy it from there (1 prev owner 7500 miles). I spotted the leaky oil seal the weekend before I picked it up. I actually asked the staff when I picked it up if the top of the fork had been dialled in and was reassured it was as it should be. They just unbolted the cap and then bolted it back on again which is wrong...the rebound adjuster has to be wound all the way out and ideally the preload adjuster too.

My hands are tied at the moment..I have printed off all the instructions from the manual and will make my position very clear tomorrow morning.

I hope they like my red rings around the important text..I get the impression they think Im moaning too much but riding a 186mph pogo stick isnt my idea of fun.

I only hope nothing has been damaged.

Beast.
 
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Rebuilt my forks myself.
Either made or bought the tools I needed.

There are some very specific steps that must be performed to get the expected result.

Getting the oil level right (After you are sure ALL the old oil is out) can be tricky.

Also the adjusters and rod are somewhat trial and error to get exact.

Really check their work when done!
 
Should be ok if the rod is set at 11mm and the rebound adjuster wound right out before assembly.

I know this is a really odd question and forgive me if I sound a bit fussy but my compression dampers are at 9 clicks out...one has a vertical slot and the other horizontal but both at 9 clicks....does anyone else have the same or is something amiss..?

Beast.
 
Vindaloobeast, I don't want to spoil your opportunity to chew some butt at the dealer but it's quite obvious you are in the dark when it comes to replacing a seal or servicing a fork.

The fork seal cannot be replaced by simply unscrewing the upper, the fork tubes must be seperated. It can be done on the bike but highly unlikely. Replacing the seal is a very simple job and once the fork is removed from the bike it only takes about 30 minutes to replace the seal, fill with oil and have it ready to reinstall on the bike.

There is no reason to change any of the pre-sets on the fork. Not the compression, rebound nor preload. All that stuff is left alone. It's a simple operation of removing the drain plug, unscrewing the upper end of the insert, seperating the tubes, replace the seal and put it back together again. Once filled with the proper amount of oil it's as good as new.

The reason the two rebound set screws are at different positions is because the forks can be installed in any position within 360 degrees. Makes no difference. What is important is that both forks have the same number of clicks out from fully closed.

I wouldn't get excited with the dealer. If the fork doesn't leak, it's fine! You'll want to set your suspension to suit yourself anyway. You can always reset the forks to the factory settings. You'll find these settings on your dvd.

Congrats on your new ride. Throw a leg over and ride it like you stole it! Just remember to pick the bugs out of your teeth at the end of the ride! :thumbsup:
 
Hi Tuf, thanks for the reply. I know the forks have to come apart and the shop obviously did take them apart to fit the seal but it was during reassembly that they screwed up a tad. The manual is quite clear that the locknut on the rod must be at 11mm and prior to installing the cap the rebound adjuster must be wound all the way out prior to fitting it to the fork. Basically they undid the fork changed the seal and refitted the cap without unscrewing the aduster.

The effect of which was that the adjuster would go 10 full rotations before the clicks effectively started. Im not on my pc otherwise I would post you the diagram so you can see whats happened. Once that screw goes all the way in it should click almost immediately it is turned and then backed out to 3 clicks for standard settings.

What I can tell you is the bike behaved very badly coming down from high speed and thats the reason Im so angry because frankly the bike was dangerous.

This is also the same on the GSXR forks.

If this has helped anyone else then Im glad I raised it as an issue cos for most people they would just accept it.

Beast.
 
Right..the plot thickens.

Rang the dealer today to check if the bike is ready for collection and it is. I asked if it had all been set up properly and was told that the reason the rebound adjuster was not clicking was because a spring in the fork cap was allegedly weak pressing on a bearing so they had to replace the spring.

Now far from me being cynical...when I noticed the problem the adjuster was about 10 or so turns out on the fork in question. Screwing it in until it stopped it just turned with no clicks but backing it out beyond the 10 it started to click so I am going with my original theory that the rebound adjuster was not backed out all the way prior to fitting the cap.

Allegedly they assembled the fork 'correctly' and it didn't click so it was taken apart again when they discovered the 'defective spring'.

Without wishing to put too fine a point on it I believe I have been told professional bullsh1t...!!

I enclose a pic from the manual which clearly says NOT to disassemble the cap.

Im beginning to wish I never bought it now.

Beast.

Fork cap.jpg
 
Hi Tuf, thanks for the reply. I know the forks have to come apart and the shop obviously did take them apart to fit the seal but it was during reassembly that they screwed up a tad. The manual is quite clear that the locknut on the rod must be at 11mm and prior to installing the cap the rebound adjuster must be wound all the way out prior to fitting it to the fork. Basically they undid the fork changed the seal and refitted the cap without unscrewing the aduster.
The effect of which was that the adjuster would go 10 full rotations before the clicks effectively started. Im not on my pc otherwise I would post you the diagram so you can see whats happened. Once that screw goes all the way in it should click almost immediately it is turned and then backed out to 3 clicks for standard settings.

What I can tell you is the bike behaved very badly coming down from high speed and thats the reason Im so angry because frankly the bike was dangerous.

This is also the same on the GSXR forks.

If this has helped anyone else then Im glad I raised it as an issue cos for most people they would just accept it.

Beast.

You are looking at the instructions for total disassembly of the fork. This is not necessary to replace the seal. I have replaced piles of these things and never once have I disassembled the inner rod assembly. This assembly is removed in one piece and nothing is removed nor is it mandatory to fiddle with any of the adjustments.

This shop (without question) did nothing to change the adjustments while replacing the seal. If the spring tension or damping does not suit you simply adjust accordingly for your liking.

You are without question showing your lack of understanding of how the forks work and I'm sure the shop is doing their best to please you without embarrasment?

If the fork doesn't leak, they did their job. Have a professional help you set up your suspension to suit your body weight and riding ability. Then, go ride the pants off that puppy and enjoy the ride! :beerchug:
 
Tuf,

Please be assured that if I had the tools to do the job then I would have done it myself...

however..

the left side rebound adjuster was NOT functioning correctly when I had the bike back. It wasn't simply a case of being in the wrong position. Regardless of the fact that the left side was found to be at least 10 turns out and the right correctly set at 3 out, if we wound them both in to the stop the right would immediately click once wound out however the left would have to pass at least 10 full turns until it started to click at all. You could almost feel the position where it might have clicked but it didnt and there was no resistance to the screw........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Coming back off throttle at high speed and hitting bumps the bike behaved dreadfully bad to the point that I was seriously worried for my safety.

Im not bothered about asking questions because there is lots of knowledge on the forum but I do know when something is very wrong and when it puts my (and others) personal safety at risk then it needs dealing with.

I made the very same mistake on my GSXR the first time I did the leg.

Beast.
 
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