FI light keeps comming on...

[heykenny]

the symptoms are that of a mis-adjusted exhaust valve cable... code will be a C46 if my guess is correct..

 

[Charlesbusa]

the symptoms are that of a mis-adjusted exhaust valve cable...  code will be a C46 if my guess is correct..

If its that, that will be similiar to GSXRs with their SET valves.

Does the '08 Busa have a SET valve just before the Catalytic Converter?

All that was needed to fix the problem was a cable adjustment.

 

[Elganja]

The code would be most helpful... from what I can see all the '08 models now have an o2 sensor and so they are likely running a closed loop system. Anything that disturbs data input to the ECU could trigger the system to go into "open loop" but should post a code at the same time. Open loop (or limp mode) may show a marked decrease in power and/or fuel economy. It can also damage the catalytic converter over time.

Regardless, this would be a dealer "emissions" issue in all likelihood (cars require a 5 year/50K warranty on emissions issues and I would guess bikes would too)

Mr. Bogus here is a quote from Brock's Performance:

<div class="iF-Passage"><div class="QUOTEHEAD">Quote:[/Quote]<div class="QUOTE clearfix"><span class="quoteBegin"> </span>
1: Stock O2 sensor: First and foremost I need to clear up some items about this new little gadget.

The 2008 Hayabusa IS **NOT** CLOSED LOOP!!!"¦in the traditional (automotive) form.

The Stock O2 sensor MUST BE REMOVED from the bike for proper performance. In a nutshell, this sensor is 'emission control BS' to help the bike pass more stringent (Euro 3 and Tier 2) air quality standards. Its job is to DRASTICALLY LEAN the air fuel mixture at cruising speeds (ONLY) Even if you have our map to correct this, the stock ecu will continue to remove fuel with the sensor installed"¦.effectively rendering our map useless from a performance standpoint.

The simple fix (at the moment) is to install a power commander since it includes a jumper to remove the sensor from the wiring harness without letting the check FI light flash. This prevents the stock ECU from attempting to ruin our mapping. We also have these jumpers available for sale without the power commander. Call 937-912-0054 or contact sales@brockracing.com for more details and/or pricing. Once the jumper plug and power commander is installed the mapping works just like the older Busa's.[/quote]

fyi, my o2 is blocked off w/ the pc3usb plug and I have had zero issues with the FI light.

 

[heykenny]

oops.. had GSXR on the brain.. disregard C46 comment

 

[CDiPrecision]

I dont buy the line from Brocks that the o2 sensor must be removed... I have mine dangling in the air(I haven't installed a bung on the TiForce yet). We been running it at the dragstrip and just ran it on a dyno with a sniffer. Made 181 on the dyno (made 168 b4 pipe install) Bike ran 9.49 @149 with a 210 pound rider on it...Thats pretty decent. the A/F looked spot on and we tweeked it with a Tikka box.. no issues or fault lights.

 

[The Big Red One]

Bone stock and it only does this when I push it hard then drop off the throttle quickly... It resets itself everytime when I turn the key off then back on. Can someone with a manual or 08 tell me if I can get the code the same way as previous years? Paper clip...... ?

Bug its starting to sound alot like a sensor issue...prolly something you'll have to take to the dealer

Try your best to fix it first tho...cause we all know what happens to brand new bikes that dealerships tear into

And if it goes to the dealership pull all the plastic yourself at home

 

[earlgpz750]

Funny, i had that damn FI light come up twice today. I have Yosh TRC full system, PCIII, ERD installed before everything was turned on and filled up. I couldnt replicate the problem (i have 80 miles on it - been cold weather for weeks). I did notice when i was downshifting and making/leaning into a right turn the first time is saw FI light. Then again, i notice on a straight acceleration and light came on at around 3K rpm. Like everyone else that had the problem, pull over, turn it off and start, all was good.

so....im going to take to my mech this week and have some diags ran on it, wondering if i could bring it in while FI is on..(hope i dont have to though).

btw - with the FI light on, I didnt notice any performance issues ect no sputtering or lag.

hope someone has an exact answer soon.......

 

[Bo_]

Bo thanks for posting up, I looking forward to hearing what you find out!

FI update, rode Saturday and about 20 miles into the ride the FI light pops on, also for anyone that is experiencing this, note that your odometer readout will be replaced by, and alternate with an FI warning digital readout.

My failure code is (C40), ISC valve trouble, ISC= idle speed control valve. 3 or 4 things can happen, 1. the motor in the valve may be defective, 2. loose wiring connection causing the motor in the valve to not operate, 3. clogged hose going to valve, 4. leaking or loose hose going to valve.

The ISC valve is located under the air box and above the throttle bodies.

My FI light has come on 8 times so far, it seems to happen after I go thru some twisties, so I'm thinking loose connection or loose hose. I think I am going to see if my dealer will give me a new ISC valve and I will install, during the installation I will look for I2R loses and hose problems. I'm a little apprehensive about taking it to the dealer for repairs.

How did I get the code, I used the paper clip diagnostic tool method. Actually you have to be ready to extract the code. I placed a paper clip and a 6mm hex key, allen wrench, and a piece of paper in my pocket (important) when we started the ride, once the light came on, you have to leave the bike running, if it dies don't turn the key off until you have the code. If you put your allen wrench in the hump you will have to turn the bike off to get it, unless you carry your extra key. I left one of my seat fasteners out before leaving the house so it would be easier to remove the seat.

Under the seat and adjacent to the battery there is a white connector with a cap on it, remove the cap, and note four terminals, two are side by side and two are diagonal, take the paper clip and jump the two terminals that are side by side and note the code readout on the odometer, be ready because the code will reset after it is read, (I think).  

More to follow, my dealer is closed today so it will be a couple days before I find out if he will give me the new valve.

For now I am going to look for loose or clogged hoses and connections. Also the two motor windings should read 80 ohms each. Series 160 ohms, parallel 40 ohms.

100 miles later on the ride the light came on again, I checked it again and it was code C40 again. So I am fairly sure my problem is the ISC valve.  

As you may suspect i did get a shop manual, the diagnostic section is pretty good. It has some weird language translation problems but for the most part it is ok. There are two troubleshooting modes, dealer mode and user mode.

 

[ks-waterbug]

Thanks for posting up... Mine is headed to the dealer as well. Will also keep you posted!

 

[Mr Bogus]

Bo thanks for posting up, I looking forward to hearing what you find out!

FI update, rode Saturday and about 20 miles into the ride the FI light pops on, also for anyone that is I think I am going to see if my dealer will give me a new ISC valve and I will install, during the installation I will look for I2R loses and hose problems. I'm a little apprehensive about taking it to the dealer for repairs.

How did I get the code, I used the paper clip diagnostic tool method. Actually you have to be ready to extract the code. I placed a paper clip and a 6mm hex key, allen wrench, and a piece of paper in my pocket (important) when we started the ride, once the light came on, you have to leave the bike running, if it dies don't turn the key off until you have the code. If you put your allen wrench in the hump you will have to turn the bike off to get it, unless you carry your extra key. I left one of my seat fasteners out before leaving the house so it would be easier to remove the seat.

Under the seat and adjacent to the battery there is a white connector with a cap on it, remove the cap, and note four terminals, two are side by side and two are diagonal, take the paper clip and jump the two terminals that are side by side and note the code readout on the odometer, be ready because the code will reset after it is read, (I think).

More to follow, my dealer is closed today so it will be a couple days before I find out if he will give me the new valve.

Wow if I tried that with the dealer here, they would fall out of their chair laughing... "We need the bike for a week or two, we will call you"

They do not keep any parts in stock that I know of unless of course you are talking about a new helmet, new pants etc...

 

[Bo_]

Thanks for posting up... Mine is headed to the dealer as well. Will also keep you posted!

Unless your dealer has the full blown diagnostic system he will not be able to retrieve the codes. The manual states that in dealer mode the codes are stored for retrieval at a later time, but if he just plugs in his switch and looks for the code on the odometer it will have (C00) which is no code, unless you arrive at the shop with the light on and they retrieve it before the bike is turned off.

 

[Bo_]

Wow if I tried that with the dealer here, they would fall out of their chair laughing...  "We need the bike for a week or two, we will call you"  

I know the owner of the dealership pretty good. The way I see it, if I determine that the little motor operated valve (ISC valve) is defective why wouldn't he just order it and let me install it, it would save him some time and he could probably back charge suzuki for shop time too. It looks like win/win situation to me. 80 ohms thru each winding,  should be pretty easy to determine if I have an open or a ground or a short. If the motor checks out ok it's probably the hoses or wiring.

 

[nitezpeed]

Hi there. Does anyone knows. Have this problem on FI C-40 have been solve? Just replace ISC valve?? Please help..

Thanks a million...

 

[BA BUSA]

This is a VERY old thread...
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[fadiizzaldin]

just before you do anything check the clutch switch. i know it sounds wierd but it really could cause that. if its always in the position as holding the clutch it will cause the FI light to come on the the bike acting weird. It happened with me and it took a lot of work to discover it.

 

[nitezpeed]

This is a VERY old thread...
Posted via Mobile Device

I know its a old threat but this problem happen to me. And i need someone with knowledge to help and guide me. lease:

fadiizzaldin <= Thanks for advice but mine is Brembo clutch pump. I did install the clutch pump switch. But i will go and check.. Thanks alot..

 

[Dozerdriver]

I know that the pair valve will trigger a FI light sometimes on hard on and off throttle... My friend had this happen and jumped his out. Smithabusa sells the jumper to bypass the pair valve. Might be worth a try...

 

[fadiizzaldin]

I know its a old threat but this problem happen to me. And i need someone with knowledge to help and guide me. lease:

fadiizzaldin <= Thanks for advice but mine is Brembo clutch pump. I did install the clutch pump switch. But i will go and check.. Thanks alot..

Anytime ... hope it gets solved soon,,, i know the fustration

 

[nitezpeed]

Fustration.. YAH!! Really!!

DozerDriver => I do have it jumper by slice the wire and tape it together. THanks for helping.

Mine FI indicate code C-40. Is almost as same as what Bo_ Posting. Whenever hard engine braking the FI will light up and when u stop at traffic. U would hear unstable idling engine sound and sometime it even dies off.

From what Bo_ posting is almost the same as mine. I try message him and yet to receive his reply. Thats sad.

Hoping to solve his problem ASAP..

Thanks everyone.