F1 Warning Light, HELP

G

Greg UK

Registered
K8 Busa 09/08
At 600 miles R77 Yosi cans and power commander fitted.
Shortly after a Double bubble screen, rear hugger and ASV levers, then "earls" braided lines,
Shortly after the F1 red warning light came on.
The dealer zeros the fault memory.
The F1 red warning light comes on again.
The dealer diagnosed the ECM valve, 10 day order, i call custome care, then a full throttle body which inludes the valve is sent to the dealer. I get it back.
The red F1 warning light comes on again.
The dealer says ECU, Suzuki take a few days to authorise, i get it back, the ECU has not been changed Suzuki say it cant be.
The red F1 warning light comes on again.
I take it back, the dealer fits a new clutch lever sensor,as advised by Suzuki technical, i get it back.
The red F1 warning light comes on again.
I take it back, this time the dealers puts back on the stock/original clutch lever. I return home, a short jouney 4-5 miles, I await my next journey.

Any advice out there?


Would removing the exhaust baffles have anything to do with this?
 
My power commander was the cause of my FI light coming on. I guess the map provided with the box wasnt quite enough. Mine threw codes on each injector. After the dealer disconneted my PCIII I havent had a problem with it.
 
Check to make sure all of the wires on the left ECU plug are firmly pushed in and secure. My Busa had two of the top row that didn't lock into the plug. I had to remove the wires from the plug and bend the lock tab up slightly so it would maintain proper contact. Check pins 50-54 (top right row on the right side ECU connector). Those are the signal wires from the spark plugs. Mine was getting FI codes, also. I took it to a dealer and they didn't find it. I discovered it while I was combing through my X-TRE install.
 
dsbunton646 said:
have you ridden with the f1 light on. does it act like it is missing? if shut off, will it start up again?
Click to expand...

I have ridden with the F light on, at least 6+ times, on the dealers say so. Its happened so often that i have forgotten some of the effects. Looking back i wish that i had noted everything. Any way: the first time the F1 light came on i was 30 seconds from pulling up and switching off, i had just completed 27 miles. Started off about 30 mins later and it came on within 10 miles, it felt retarded/restricted and lumpy. On other occasions it has felt slightly restricted and tickover is struggling to almost stalling, on another occasion it has stalled beteween down gear changes at very slow speed, ie no throttle. When turned off (Key removed) and restarted the red light is not on and the bike runs ok, the longer the ignition is off the longer i seem to get, upto 25+ miles, it can happen after 6 miles! However when the Suzuki tech rides it for 40 miles.....nothing, i do 6 miles and on it comes !!!!!!!!
 
GA_boi said:
My power commander was the cause of my FI light coming on. I guess the map provided with the box wasnt quite enough. Mine threw codes on each injector. After the dealer disconneted my PCIII I havent had a problem with it.
Click to expand...

"Horses for courses" if your happy, what will you do with your PCIII, did you advise them and have they dealt with the issue, ie can they modify the software or is it a case of" its not compatable"? Would be obliged to hear your how it ran with the F! light on to compare with mine.

"The codes" are you reffering to the codes that the dealer gets when they plug the bike into their PC, or have i missed something? I did hear off someone a reference to "crossing" a wire in the connector block to get the codes to appear on the bike display!!!

Thanks for the comments and info off people.
 
I would dump the PCIII, as you don't really need it for Yosh cans. See if the ECU pops more codes, if not, problem solved.
 
The local Suzuki Dealer collected the bike wed 19/11, the following day the Suzuki "God" (with a lap top) came from head office. He looked at the codes recorded on the fault memory and rode the bike for 40 miles with his lap top plugged in, the light did not come on. However he suggested there may be a fault between gears 5 and 6, if the gear selection sensor detects the false neutral it sends a signal to the ECU, the ECU thinks: to many revs for a neutral shut them down, F1 light appears. So a new gear sensor was ordered. Fitted the following day. Called the following day to check ready/ok (now its 7th visit). To put it into perspective on the third occasion the F1 light came on, it was on a busy but slow moving island and during a gentle and slow up lift to 2nd it stalled, i didnt notice and almost dropped it, made me grind my teeth, never done that one, if you do it do it in style!:moon::whistle:The techs and the "GOD" with a lap top have not been able to get this red light to come on, do they think i am rigging this?
The bike again, the tech at the dealer answered and said yes the part arrived we fitted it. The part was ok! Ha Ha not him thats me laughing. Then he says i will put you through to Steve the manager, these lads at the dealer are good. The manager says to me, i have taken the bike out, 8 miles up the road the light has come on......:banghead:
 
buddy of mine has a power commander and ti force 4-1 installed and his F1 is on all the time,so i guess its the PC
 
Mmmh, I have always had a concern with the PCIII. However the dealer keeps saying it has nothing to do with the PCIII, mmmh. The Suzuki "God" with a laptop that inspected and rode the bike has also said nothing to do with the PCIII.
Following a call today from Suzuki customer care, i let a little steam off which was responded to with the comment: you have had the bike modified! Bite, hard my tounge i did, that "old chesnut" here we go! The dealer suggested it when the cans went on "it will run better", maybe i swollowed the bait a bit quick, anything she needs, you know what i mean. Well if its the PC remove it, the reply was i am aware the bike has been run without it and problem has still occured.(Why the modified comment then?) Anyway, the result is the dealer has been sent a lap top to connect whilst riding the bike to record what cicumstances occur when this F1 light comes on.

The red light does not just come on for Xmas, sometimes no big changes to the engine, other times it becomes retarded/restricted, revs drop low and it fights and struggles to stay alive. Sometimes it comes on after 6miles and sometimes upto 30miles. The Suzuki area Manager or the God with a Laptop is dealing with it according to customer care ie the lap top was sent to the dealer.

This Busa is now becoming an "IT", she aint making me smile," it" has been moaning since the 11th Oct.:banghead:
 
I have just road tested my k8 busa powerd Mini at Pukekohe today, the red light comes on often? and the F1 warning? i was getting up around 230 in 5th going like the clappers before trying to slow for the hairpin. It seem ok but pulling away on a hill start it pinks a little???? Its probably twice as heavy as a bike and i have a 16 t front and 49 rear, the wheels on the rear are 205 17" bit bigger than the Busa.

tank 116.jpg
 
What is the code number? See, you have something like a loop going on and the code may set a phantom code. Meaning, there are 3 loops that tie each other together.

So, say we have a cam sensor, a crank sensor and an ECU. These are 3 basic loops tied together. But say the cam sensor codes, but you installed a crank sensor pickup tone wheel with an advancer say.

OK, so the cam sensor code comes on, but really the bolt backed out of the crank, spins the tone wheel slightly, the cam says, WATT???? And now you swap out parts because the cam sensor came on.

But you are sometimes looking at the wrong sensor that spiked the phantom code. And your dealer and manufacturer are throwing parts at it when you may have pinched a wire installing the windshield and the screw is pressed on some harness throwing what code?

Here are 3 fundamental ways codes are set:

1. Connector not connected.
2. Wire out of connector.
3. Wire short to ground but not short enough to spike a blown fuse, but enough resistance to send one volt signal and not the analog 0 to 5.0v needed to keep the ECU from pointing the way with a code set.


:rulez:
 
I think you should unhook the PC 3 and hook the 02 sensor back up (if it is jumped....should be) test ride it. If the light comes on, stop and jump the plug and find the code yourself. There is a section somewhere on here on how to find the code...search.
 
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