Thats good to know and hear. ThanksI would be happy with that. What size cams did you go with?
Web 378 intake with stock intake moved to exhaust - another way to save a few bucks.
engine mods
- Thread starter 1badasbusa
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Web 378 intake with stock intake moved to exhaust - another way to save a few bucks.
1badasbusa
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Are you thinking stoke bore or 1397? If 1397, with a 5mm crank??
1badasbusa
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So how does the average joe handle that problem,If you find out one or two are off. Would that be something you have to eat or does the manufacturer exchange them?
Johnnycheese
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do what I posted
I went with rods for piece of mind and kinda ins. mentality. I'm only at 200hp right now which would be okay with oem BUT stock has still been known to fail. Carillo rods I KNOW I wont have to worry about.
Johnnycheese
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you are an idiot.
no problem with weld ups. PERIOD
name calling huh. you sound real intelligent. I guess you DON'T know everything.
Johnnycheese
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nope nothing
weld up crank 2 years 5K daily rider and countless mile runs
Johnnycheese
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ps also the fast N.A. bike at the Texas mile.
1538cc with a weld up crank built 6years ago daily rider and still running.
yep your an idiot
1538cc with a weld up crank built 6years ago daily rider and still running.
yep your an idiot
busa_rida_gk
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What does the 24v volt system do for the busa....?
1badasbusa
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By addding 2 batteries to make 24v allows for more cranking amps. I dont realy think that it is switching the system over to a 24v system. It is just adding a second batt for the added amps.
Johnnycheese
Registered
no more amps. 24v makes the starter spin twice as fast.
I=E/R
I=E/R
you end up with less amps but twice the voltage. Works like a charm.
the cheeseman knows how to build 'em and tune 'em.
the cheeseman knows how to build 'em and tune 'em.
Johnny has some big points you need to answer IMO..
Daily riders that need to get 10 or 20K a year are a world apart from a guy that just wants to fry a tire off the bike once a week..
I prefer to build bigger displacement lower RPM motors myself for street use.. Although I do not do bikes, I have built a good number of 1.5L to 9L hotrod motors..
I prefer good low end "torque" to "HP" numbers for street riding, that is what will leave the others in the dust..
Longevity is a key point in a motor, you can buy the very best parts and build a 60 second hand grenade or a motor like posted above will run 50K..
longer strokes, bigger slugs and head work seem to be a key to long term reliability IME.. As soon as we start stepping up cams (read: more RPM's) that "reliability" curve seems to start dropping.. (fine for a 1/4 mile drag bike)
Welded cranks... we used them all the time, in most cases they are stronger than factory OEM cranks.. They have been stress relieved, radius's improved and in the case of automotive, drilled for improved oiling. Done correctly? maybe near as good as an aftermarket forging.. not to mention you have it balanced for YOUR rotating parts, not a generic set of counteweights..
At least you are doing a ton of research on this, you should end up in good shape if you hit a good builder and they know what you need..
Daily riders that need to get 10 or 20K a year are a world apart from a guy that just wants to fry a tire off the bike once a week..
I prefer to build bigger displacement lower RPM motors myself for street use.. Although I do not do bikes, I have built a good number of 1.5L to 9L hotrod motors..
I prefer good low end "torque" to "HP" numbers for street riding, that is what will leave the others in the dust..
Longevity is a key point in a motor, you can buy the very best parts and build a 60 second hand grenade or a motor like posted above will run 50K..
longer strokes, bigger slugs and head work seem to be a key to long term reliability IME.. As soon as we start stepping up cams (read: more RPM's) that "reliability" curve seems to start dropping.. (fine for a 1/4 mile drag bike)
Welded cranks... we used them all the time, in most cases they are stronger than factory OEM cranks.. They have been stress relieved, radius's improved and in the case of automotive, drilled for improved oiling. Done correctly? maybe near as good as an aftermarket forging.. not to mention you have it balanced for YOUR rotating parts, not a generic set of counteweights..
At least you are doing a ton of research on this, you should end up in good shape if you hit a good builder and they know what you need..
Last edited:
1badasbusa
Registered
=Mr Bogus;1696552]Johnny has some big points you need to answer IMO..
Daily riders that need to get 10 or 20K a year are a world apart from a guy that just wants to fry a tire off the bike once a week..
I prefer to build bigger displacement lower RPM motors myself for street use.. Although I do not do bikes, I have built a good number of 1.5L to 9L hotrod motors..
I prefer good low end "torque" to "HP" numbers for street riding, that is what will leave the others in the dust..
Longevity is a key point in a motor, you can buy the very best parts and build a 60 second hand grenade or a motor like posted above will run 50K..
longer strokes, bigger slugs and head work seem to be a key to long term reliability IME.. As soon as we start stepping up cams (read: more RPM's) that "reliability" curve seems to start dropping.. (fine for a 1/4 mile drag bike)
Welded cranks... we used them all the time, in most cases they are stronger than factory OEM cranks.. They have been stress relieved, radius's improved and in the case of automotive, drilled for improved oiling. Done correctly? maybe near as good as an aftermarket forging.. not to mention you have it balanced for YOUR rotating parts, not a generic set of counteweights..
At least you are doing a ton of research on this, you should end up in good shape if you hit a good builder and they know what you need..[/QUOTE]
That was the plan, to get some knowledge before I start throwing parts together. From what I'm finding though, it is wiser to let a pro do the work and have it tuned by that pro. That way, the builder knows whats in the motor or head work and can tune accordingly. PLUS price wise, its not too far off from if I slap parts together and take it to a tuner. I may save money on the motor build, but pay more for the added tuning. So, I might as well just leave it to the pros. Thats my thoughts for now. I'm still torn. I'm seeing ported heads and blocks with pistons on hear that I can get for a good price. Throw a crank in it with rods and let it rip.
I got plenty of time to figure it out. Its going to be a long winter.
Daily riders that need to get 10 or 20K a year are a world apart from a guy that just wants to fry a tire off the bike once a week..
I prefer to build bigger displacement lower RPM motors myself for street use.. Although I do not do bikes, I have built a good number of 1.5L to 9L hotrod motors..
I prefer good low end "torque" to "HP" numbers for street riding, that is what will leave the others in the dust..
Longevity is a key point in a motor, you can buy the very best parts and build a 60 second hand grenade or a motor like posted above will run 50K..
longer strokes, bigger slugs and head work seem to be a key to long term reliability IME.. As soon as we start stepping up cams (read: more RPM's) that "reliability" curve seems to start dropping.. (fine for a 1/4 mile drag bike)
Welded cranks... we used them all the time, in most cases they are stronger than factory OEM cranks.. They have been stress relieved, radius's improved and in the case of automotive, drilled for improved oiling. Done correctly? maybe near as good as an aftermarket forging.. not to mention you have it balanced for YOUR rotating parts, not a generic set of counteweights..
At least you are doing a ton of research on this, you should end up in good shape if you hit a good builder and they know what you need..[/QUOTE]
That was the plan, to get some knowledge before I start throwing parts together. From what I'm finding though, it is wiser to let a pro do the work and have it tuned by that pro. That way, the builder knows whats in the motor or head work and can tune accordingly. PLUS price wise, its not too far off from if I slap parts together and take it to a tuner. I may save money on the motor build, but pay more for the added tuning. So, I might as well just leave it to the pros. Thats my thoughts for now. I'm still torn. I'm seeing ported heads and blocks with pistons on hear that I can get for a good price. Throw a crank in it with rods and let it rip.
I got plenty of time to figure it out. Its going to be a long winter.
1badasbusa
Registered
Thats cool. Ya I got alot of info from here and talked to a few builders.
Im thinking of going with the 1397 head and cams and tune. I found that it isnt that much different in price for me to do it my self then have to go get the bike tuned compared to just leave it to the builders and that we they know whats in it for a much better tune. I decided to just go with the stock cank. I got a good used one with rods for a quarter of the price of the 08 crank. I did reseach on th 08 crank and found that one of the builders on here did a comparison and the crank only gained 7 hp. Wasnt worth it to me to spend an extra 900. I can use that money to get the tranny cut. Good Luck with whatever you choose.
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