Electrical Just Went Out... Help

[Skywalker]

Battery Tender with inline fuse to positive side and black to negitive side. I can only ask... isn't that correct! I have removed the BT and GI PRO and still have the issue with no activity at all... total darkness and not a bit of any life. Fuse in the Battery Tender and anything like radio always has inline fuse and is positive side as far as I now. The GI Pro went to the positive side and has been in the position for two years and working. Let me know if this is wrong. I put that Tender on as of 17 Mar 2010 and hooked her up and got a green light in about an hour on that previous new battery and I have noticed since it was always green so everything should have been good to go! But yesterday was the 1st time I put the key in her. Like i say, powered up and I sat the clock, cleared the trips and turned off the key! Turned the key back to on and all lit up and I hit the start button and black city at that point. I my hearing is bad and supposed to wear aides but I think I heard a pop! The GI PRO going directly to the battery may explain why it flickered a bit and even the needles hands moved just a bit but she is DOA now and I'll need to get to this maybe this evening and don't want to be all over this looking in all the wrong places. I appreciate the help... anyone with a pic of this main fuse would be helpful as I don't know if I need to just remove my cowl or is there an starter cover that needs to come off? Let me know guys!

Here's a silly question. Are you sure the battery leads are on the correct terminals? + > +, - > -.

Also, hooking the battery tender up backwards will show as charging, but would actual slowly discharge the battery.

 

[djsin]

heres what happend...that 8$ battery tender smoked both of your batteries....happens all the time...get a good charger and throw the tender away..I bet all your fuses are fine and bike is fine...the tender smoked the battery...the bike will start and run even if the entire instrument cluster is dead or disconnected...so unless the fuse for the starter is out it isnt a fuse the main fuse is a large blade 30 amp and is together with the starter relay...i believe and is located here.(picture 7-16)..these pages from the manual should help

 

[TruWrecks]

A cheap tender can ruin a battery quickly. I've been using the Battery Tender brand for several years and have not had any battery issues. They do a very good job of maintaining a charge if the draw on the battery is less than 0.750 Amps. Any more than that with the bike off and you have a short circuit.

The fuse does go to the Pos. The black to the Neg. You might want to disconnect the battery from the bike and leave it on the tender for a day and see if the battery recovers.

Though the best way to charge a motorcycle battery is to put it on a 2 Amp 12V charger for about 8 hours. Any higher amps and you will boil the battery. After it is fully charged you can get it load tested. Under a starter load it should maintain 11.7-12.3 VDC. At rest it should be close to 12.6-12.8 VDC.

If your battery is good you need to look at all of your fuses.

 

[Skywalker]

I bought my bike new in 2004 and I have not averaged 1-2 years with the battery. I have a charger and would do a 2 amp charge over night during the winter months several times and start her up several time a year. I seen many many folks bragging on the tender and even the stealership suggesting I get a tender and would last 5 years with one. So, last Mar I bought that new battery from batteries plus and bought a junior and batteries plus highly suggested it as well since their battery that was 13 months old died. This is the 1st time I've seen anyone say they were a problem so I guess I screwed up! Now the batter in right now never brought any power to the bike when I put it in last night after taking the other one back so I'm betting the main fuse was already gone. However, I did hook the tender to it but got nothing on when I turned the key so I'll pull the battery and put my other real charger on slow trickle charge today as I'll be out of pocket for about 4 hour this morning and try and find that main fuse when I return...

heres what happend...that 8$ battery tender smoked both of your batteries....happens all the time...get a good charger and throw the tender away..I bet all your fuses are fine and bike is fine...the tender smoked the battery...the bike will start and run even if the entire instrument cluster is dead or disconnected...so unless the fuse for the starter is out it isnt a fuse the main fuse is a large blade 30 amp and is together with the starter relay...i believe and is located here.(picture 7-16)..these pages from the manual should help

 

[Skywalker]

I'm pulling it now and going straight to the tender or my normal 12 vold 2 amp charger for a while. I think the battery I returned last night was fried but this one should not be as I had no power and issues it just simply didn't work and most likely because of main fuse! thanks to everyone for the info and I'll try to find that fuse and get on this ASAP.

A cheap tender can ruin a battery quickly. I've been using the Battery Tender brand for several years and have not had any battery issues. They do a very good job of maintaining a charge if the draw on the battery is less than 0.750 Amps. Any more than that with the bike off and you have a short circuit.

The fuse does go to the Pos. The black to the Neg. You might want to disconnect the battery from the bike and leave it on the tender for a day and see if the battery recovers.

Though the best way to charge a motorcycle battery is to put it on a 2 Amp 12V charger for about 8 hours. Any higher amps and you will boil the battery. After it is fully charged you can get it load tested. Under a starter load it should maintain 11.7-12.3 VDC. At rest it should be close to 12.6-12.8 VDC.

If your battery is good you need to look at all of your fuses.

 

[djsin]

np good luck

 

[Skywalker]

Well, still need help. Removed the rear cowling or tail section and check the main 30 amp fuse and it is not blown. Bike is still dead... the battery is new as of last night and I set it on the bench today on the tender and went solid green meaning full charge. battery is in and I get nothing except the GI PRO will come on for just a second and that is all I have. If I understand the front fuse panel is for lights and such and motor will crank and run even without the front fuses? Somone please tell me where to go from here.

 

[Skywalker]

OK, my neighbor is here with his fluke 87 multimeter and this is what we just done. 1, tested battery static with no accessories is pulling 12.7 volts and with accessories which is my GI PRO, Speed O healer, it would pull 10.6 - 10.7 VDC with key off! 2, turn key to on position volts drops to 0.050. 3, starter relay or main 30 AMP fuse tested good and then tested OHMS on starter relay and with key off max OHMS open circuit and with key on it jumped from 90-150 OHMS. 4, called local stealership and gave them this info and service tech said I could have since this all started last night when I pushed the starter button which at that time all power was good that this could be an ignition problem and they would need to check it out at $66.00 hr of course. So, what do you guys think and I would prefer to fix this myself with your help!

 

[BusaDale]

:bump:
Hope everyone is not out of ideas.

 

[djsin]

i would disconnect the GI PRO, Speed O healer and power commander if u have one.. all together for starters...but the bikes electrical system back the way it was stock by taking them out of the picture...pull the left side dash panel check the fuses in there...check the switches (clutch) (kickstand)etc... if bike is not getting power che4ck the relay which is right where the main 30 amp fuse is...the pages i put on here from the manual will tell you how to check it...check for dead shorts like + to - check voltage from battery + to bike ground in several places on the bike.....makes sure ecu is plugged in...its a pain but start tracing down the wiring and see where the currant lose is coming from...if you have no power at all...id say the relay is bad...it allows the + to pass through it at all times then has a switched leg that kicks the starter over..but if they go bad the + that goes through it can in fact be cut off....

 

[djsin]

call my friend ERIC HE is one of my best friends who owns a hayabusa that lives 10 min from Colorado springs..he will come over and help you...he isn't on the board here...but I spoke to him already and he is expecting your phone call, he should be able to help you trace the problem down
I sent you the numbers in a pm

Eric used to live here in Indiana with me but now lives by you...really good guy and im sure he'd be happy to know someone in the area to ride with as well...

 

[djsin]

also make sure you have a copy of the manual..it can be found pinned on here in pdf format if you don't already have it GEN 2 GEN1
http://1gighost.com/hayabusa/k8hayabusamanual.pdf

 

[Skywalker]

Many thanks and I'lll give Eric a call in just a few. Would be nice to have some OJT from someone that know more then me especially with electronic issues. The above post. I have tried it with nothing but the stock components and still had the same issue! I'll print off the manual and give him a call! Many thanks.

call my friend ERIC HE is one of my best friends who owns a hayabusa that lives 10 min from Colorado springs..he will come over and help you...he isn't on the board here...but I spoke to him already and he is expecting your phone call, he should be able to help you trace the problem down
I sent you the numbers in a pm

Eric used to live here in Indiana with me but now lives by you...really good guy and im sure he'd be happy to know someone in the area to ride with as well...

 

[Skywalker]

Well, just FYI and update for those that may be following my issue. Pulled the front panels/PUIG windshiled/raised gas tank and check battery again today to make sure it was still good and fully charged and it is! Looked at all the cables from front to rear and connectors that I could see and the harness seems 100 percent like new condition. I did call djsin's buddy Eric and sounds like a great guy but he was tied up today which I'm in no hurry at all and will be glad when this is nailed down. I did find a bold wedged between the frame that looked like a bolt off the battery terminal and probably from my service at stealership at my 500 mile mark. So, I'm printing off my manual which I didn't realize but it's massive but will tab it out and bind it and make good use of it for now and future use.

 

[Skywalker]

This is a done deal and thanks to everyone and thanks to DJSIN and his friend ERIC. After thinking about all that I had done he said it must be the battery! I have never had a battery that acted like that and went totally dead when I pushed the starter button and never brought any power to anything from that point on but yet showed full charge on battery tender! however, I had two bad brand new batterys in a row which both were the units from batteries plus and this is number 4 in 14 months. the guy at batteries plus today said he would never admit to his comments but said that battery company for the busa battery they sell is crap and it is something about the purity of the led in the unit. Said if this one goes they will refund all my money and to get the best battery on the market is the Harley batteries! So, she is back together and felt great to go for a quick spin and for an 2004 she looks so good! I still can look at her and just smile! Lets roll....

 

[BusaDale]

Good to hear it's fixed.
By the way, I had left my phone in my car and missed your call but got the vmail. Looks like you didn't need me anyway, I would have never thought a second new battery was bad.