Ecu flash
- Thread starter spanglaz
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1busa
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Flashing with what software?? Boost? Woolich? Etc? Do you plan on flashing it yourself or sending out your ECU to a shop?? As far as issues go ecu flashing is considered a standard mod 2 do. Changes in performance...?? depending on what you change with the flash you'll see a difference. Read the countless threads about ecu flashing and see what they had 2 say. Look on the website of the flash software your gonna use and see what options and benefits you'll gain
You can go with the Woolich Log box pro, and use your Oem O2 sensor. You then can log and flash for street use, if you want more, get wide band O2 sensor.
2011 Suzuki GSX1300R (Hayabusa) ECU Flashing
2011 Suzuki GSX1300R (Hayabusa) ECU Flashing
1busa...im taking it to a local guy who has a dyno as well. I don't plan on using any noz. As for the software, i'm not sure what hes gonna be using. So pretty much all im looking for is what everyone has been saying about running smoother, better throttle response, better fuel mgmt, increase in HP etc.
Not sure how you would do a "proper dyno/tune" without flashing, unless you bought a PC or Bazzaz.
To the OP, if you want a dyno tune and your local guy uses ECU flash it seems that would be the way to go. I'm a bit skeptical of some claims about improvements, especially when they are dyno improvements.
To the OP, if you want a dyno tune and your local guy uses ECU flash it seems that would be the way to go. I'm a bit skeptical of some claims about improvements, especially when they are dyno improvements.
1busa
Registered
There are a very few select tuners in the country that dyno/tune with using the ECU flash method. Most tuners will use the ecu flash to make adjustments like eliminate top speed restriction, hard cut fuel, Raise rev limit, pull timing etc.
Then they use a piggy back fuel control like a PCV or Bazzaz...... A Lot of the shops/ tuners said this was an easier method to properly dial in the bike. I haven't done it myself but from what I've heard they said it's takes longer to tune using the flash method vs a fuel controller. Take a look @ most shops that do turbo, Nos, or Big motor builds and you'll see most of them tune using a Power Commander. And for serious HP builds they progress to a stand alone unit like a Motec and such. Not saying All but most shops including sponsors on this very site....
There are a very few select tuners in the country that dyno/tune with using the ECU flash method. Most tuners will use the ecu flash to make adjustments like eliminate top speed restriction, hard cut fuel, Raise rev limit, pull timing etc.
Then they use a piggy back fuel control like a PCV or Bazzaz...... A Lot of the shops/ tuners said this was an easier method to properly dial in the bike. I haven't done it myself but from what I've heard they said it's takes longer to tune using the flash method vs a fuel controller. Take a look @ most shops that do turbo, Nos, or Big motor builds and you'll see most of them tune using a Power Commander. And for serious HP builds they progress to a stand alone unit like a Motec and such. Not saying All but most shops including sponsors on this very site....
I don't disagree, but I'm assuming the OP doesn't have PC or Bazzaz.
I also don't think a near stock bike will see much benefit from a dyno tune no matter the tuning method. I'm running an ECU tune I got via e-mail and have datalogged many passes, adjusted, and seen nothing for my work but a nicer a/f ratio line. In the end I just use the tune as I received it.
You can ECU tune and not lose the use of the mode switch if you like. If you use nitrouscontrol or in some cases the air shifter in ECU flash you lose the mode switch functionality.
Theresa few things I'd like to add.
1. A bone stock bike usually picks up around 10hp with a tune. For some reason they run extremely rich from the factory.
2. Reflashing the ecu is the only way to go when tuning a Busa. For the cost, vs what it can do vs a piggy back style tuner, a Reflash will crush it every time.
3. A gen 2 ecu can do just about everything a $3000 aftermarket ecu can.
4. Do some resesrch on the woodlich box before you buy to see what others experiences were...
5. Boosted Cycle Performance uses the boost by smith set up for all of our clients bikes.
1. A bone stock bike usually picks up around 10hp with a tune. For some reason they run extremely rich from the factory.
2. Reflashing the ecu is the only way to go when tuning a Busa. For the cost, vs what it can do vs a piggy back style tuner, a Reflash will crush it every time.
3. A gen 2 ecu can do just about everything a $3000 aftermarket ecu can.
4. Do some resesrch on the woodlich box before you buy to see what others experiences were...
5. Boosted Cycle Performance uses the boost by smith set up for all of our clients bikes.
1. Are you tuning with ram air compensation turned off? My tune (with aftermarket exahaust) adds fuel at full throttle.
2. Are you tuning IAP and TPS maps? The piggyback essentially combines these for easy tuning. The piggyback systems are quicker to make adjustments in.
3. For the typical rider this is true, but for the all out drag racer not so much. The Gen2 ECU is good enough for my level of racing and in my opinion flashing is essential even with a piggyback system.
4. I am thinking of upgrading to the Woolich box but don't know how it handles IAP datalogging and mapping. Considering I would want to switch to E40 or E85 this seems important. It is easy with a piggyback.
I did this on my last Gen 2 and will do it on my next Gen 2. I bought the interface package at boost by smith and installed it myself. I used the ecu editor to derestrict and adj the rev limiter. As no one here really knew how to tune with it, I added a PC and got a dyno tune. Bike ran great.
I have the full ecu tune/flash, no pc or bazzaz. I think I had mine done around May 2010. Back then very few people did the ecu tuning. I had to drive about 300 miles each way. The bike was on the dyno for about 5 or 6 hours. Jay, the tuner, would make a couple of runs then let it cool. If I remember correctly my air/fuel ratio is at 13.2 and at 4k, cruising speed, my air/fuel is at13.4. My bike is smooth as silk and I would do it again. If I recall I gained 13 ponies and 6 foot pounds of torque.
Weird all my replys ended up in the quote.
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1. Why would you not turn Ram Air compensation off on the dyno for naturally aspirated engines? If you tune with it on without moving you'll be leaner on the track. Personally I think the dyno is good for getting close but a stock bike already is close. A data logger and time slips on the track are what's real. I'm not randomly adding fuel.
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't know we were talking on the dyno. Yes it's turned off on the dyno.
deon_hackstall
Registered
I want to install a wide band 02 sensor on my Gen II,, what brand/part number is the most common used for this and were do I tap into my ecu harness to utilize the "wide band'edness" of it.. ? I already have the flasher and I ride with my lap top to get readings.. I just want more accurate readings to get better auto tune info..
Are you using a woolich racing log box or log box bro? If so do you have the version with the phone jack connector in the side? If so a zietronix is the easiest as it will connect right to the log box directly.
Greg
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