Drive chain question

bigone5500

Registered
How much play should the rollers in the chain have? Not the play between the plates and the roller but the roller and the pin that goes through it. Should there be NO movement? I'm asking so I can determine whether I need to purchase a new chain.

With that said, I'm looking at getting the EK chain:


Is it any good?
 
How much play should the rollers in the chain have? Not the play between the plates and the roller but the roller and the pin that goes through it. Should there be NO movement? I'm asking so I can determine whether I need to purchase a new chain.

With that said, I'm looking at getting the EK chain:


Is it any good?

EK is a good brand but the tensile strength is what I pay attention to, 10,000+ for the Busa. A very low price may be an indicator that it’s made for a lesser HP machine. Not sure what to say about your chain. I’m so used to looking at mine, lifting them away from the sprocket or trying to, feeling for a tight spot etc, that I just know when it’s time for a new one. Most say it’s wise to change sprockets with a new chain but IMO that’s not an absolute depending on the age and wear of the sprockets.
 
All the links in a chain should move up and down within their range freely, there should be no other movement.
Even if you were to cut the o-rings out, it would have no immediate effect on the chain's movement.
The o-rings do not work as a bushing or cushion, but as a seal, to keep the factory grease on the internal part of the pin, where it needs it.
As o-rings wear, dirt gets in, and the pins wear to a larger clearance, or in most cases, the links become 'tight', as in you bend them, or they are already not settling back as they should. Along a straight row of links that should all lay flat, a tight link will stay bent up at an angle, and will be very noticeable.
Tight links and excessive sprocket wear(offset wear pattern, hooked teeth) are the main indicators of a worn chain.
A properly maintained chain(cleaned and adjusted) can easily go 20k, 30k+ miles.
As far as chains go, the EK3D is awesome.
They are stronger and lighter than stock.
I put one(520 conversion) on the '18 Gsxr1k, and it has been great.

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I typically get 30K on my chains and sprockets. When I’ve moved the axle back as far as it goes I know it’s time to buy a chain and I buy chain and sprockets as a set. I understand if you have a special circumstance that might change. But while I’m replacing the chain; I kinda don’t care if it looks like I have some life left in the sprockets; I’m gonna change them while the chains being replaced
 
So I'm probably going to purchase the EK 530 Z 3D. Is $196 about the cheapest I'm going to find it online? Do any of you know of a better deal?
 
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