Do I need to drop the motor to do head studs?

More pictures!
Well even after triple checking I forgot to undo the ECT so had to fix the wires.

Also valve cover was a pain to get off the pins are all rusted.
Then got timing all lined up to pull apart.

473F71F6-5454-49DC-89DB-9B04D4DF7D37.jpeg


A5485E6D-851C-4744-9BD6-C7BE9E1EF7FD.jpeg


3D7B05BD-DB9C-4CB3-A37D-E94DDA89EA0A.jpeg
 
I was under the impression that APE head studs were torque to yield, and therefore not reusable. Is that not the case?
Not the case. Stock head bolts are TTY. There’s been concerns about them stretching and snapping ive heard. The only ape stud I’ve ever snapped was my faul, I put it in upside down. The threads are different on each end, and in an engine that’s been apart several times you can thread it in upside down. The stud snapped at the top just below the treads when the bolt jammed up.

Only other thing I do with those studs are I torque them using the ARP molley thread lube. The first time I use them I’ll torque them to 65lbs. If Reusing I’ll torque them to 60lbs. I’ve never had any issues using those methods even on 600+hp engines.
 
Not the case. Stock head bolts are TTY. There’s been concerns about them stretching and snapping ive heard. The only ape stud I’ve ever snapped was my faul, I put it in upside down. The threads are different on each end, and in an engine that’s been apart several times you can thread it in upside down. The stud snapped at the top just below the treads when the bolt jammed up.

Only other thing I do with those studs are I torque them using the ARP molley thread lube. The first time I use them I’ll torque them to 65lbs. If Reusing I’ll torque them to 60lbs. I’ve never had any issues using those methods even on 600+hp engines.
Thanks for the lesson.
 
Back
Top