Do I need to drop the motor to do head studs?

[Mathewrussell52]

I’m tearing in. I’m gonna install the head studs I got from a member here. It looks like i have a lot of room up top. But I don’t know with the angle or if I can just undo the back motor mounts and swivel the motor.

 

[Mr Brown]

I want to say I didn't pull the motor, but I've slept since then..
I'd say @Boosted Cycle Perf is the guy to ask. Rob? What say you?

 

[Berlin Germany]

swivel it? no chance.
the last time i had to change head gasket is only 4 months ago and i remember best.

at gen1 - for pulling the head studs the chance to have to pull the motor is at ~80%

mostly the main frames are too close to bolt #5 (and eventually #1) at exhaust side of the head - so my brother said and he already did that job more than a dozen times at gen1

at gen1 - try to get the 5th out - if it sticks to the frame, you have to pull the motor then.
in my view it is simple - just try your luck - if it works you save a good 2 hours of working time for pulling the motor

at gen2 - i guess the motor allways must be pulled caused by the exhaust side bolts/studs.
______________________________________________________________

a question : why do you want to change the studs ?

and when pulled out use something like this ;-)

 

[busakiller]

I’m pretty sure you will have to drop the motor. That will make it much easier. You probably could drop the front of the motor down and let it hinge on the rear bolt. You doing just studs? New head gasket or pop the head off to check the inside out?

 

[Mathewrussell52]

I’m pretty sure you will have to drop the motor. That will make it much easier. You probably could drop the front of the motor down and let it hinge on the rear bolt. You doing just studs? New head gasket or pop the head off to check the inside out?

Just studs a little added insurance.

 

[busakiller]

If your not going to pop the head off make sure you only do one stud at a time. So you don’t break the head gasket seal.

 

[Mathewrussell52]

If your not going to pop the head off make sure you only do one stud at a time. So you don’t break the head gasket seal.

That’s the plan.

 

[Dennis]

I wouldn't bother doing it unless you have plans that require it. It's not common to need studs on a stock motor.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

You can’t do studs with the engine in the frame.

 

[mabupa]

I wouldn't bother doing it unless you have plans that require it. It's not common to need studs on a stock motor.

He put a turbo on his.

 

[Mathewrussell52]

I pulled it out.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

I think it may be possible to leave the top trans mount bolt in, and jack the front of the engine enough to do it, but I never tried. If I’m outing bolts in I’m usually doing a spacer, and it’s easier to degree cams on the bench anyways.

 

[Berlin Germany]

Just studs a little added insurance.

what?

added insurance? for what?

are you afraid the "old" studs would lengthen?
you have no 10mm APE´s (CHN10125-10) in there?
i mean those where the head nuts get 80 Nm.

studs are never built/made to lengthen - even when you loose and tighten them 5 or 10 times - you allways can use them again.
look at APE´s page or better phone them to ask, if their studs are "expansion" studs - i don´t think so.

i myself had a head gasket change 4 or 5 month ago 10 mm APE´s were in.

 

[shade]

More pictures!

 

[michael parris heuberger]

what?

added insurance? for what?

are you afraid the "old" studs would lengthen?
you have no 10mm APE´s (CHN10125-10) in there?
i mean those where the head nuts get 80 Nm.

studs are never built/made to lengthen - even when you loose and tighten them 5 or 10 times - you allways can use them again.
look at APE´s page or better phone them to ask, if their studs are "expansion" studs - i don´t think so.

i myself had a head gasket change 4 or 5 month ago 10 mm APE´s were in.

Hi. I went with the ARP 1/2 inch studs, the ARP crank studs, ARP case bolts but for the 6 mm bolts I went with 6mm Pro Bolt aluminum and a APE out put shaft stud.

 

[Dennis]

Edit: misread

 

[Berlin Germany]

Hi. I went with the ARP 1/2 inch studs, the ARP crank studs, ARP case bolts but for the 6 mm bolts I went with 6mm Pro Bolt aluminum and a APE out put shaft stud.

hi michael,

did you ever heard that this ape - studs (1/2 or 3/8 inch) permanent expand when tightened so have to be changed every time when loosened?
I just can't imagine that.
and at ape I have never read anything about it.


i "only" had that turbo for repair the head gasket so i didn´t touch the studs.

and - why should I?

their sound , when knocked on using a large screwdriver, was absolutely the same for all 10 pieces - so when the nuts were unscrewed, none of them were loosened in the housing.

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

I don’t like the ARP studs. Nor do I care for the APE 1/2” studs.

I’ve never had a single issue using, or reusing Ape 10mm studs. Even on 5-600hp builds.

 

[Mr Brown]

I was under the impression that APE head studs were torque to yield, and therefore not reusable. Is that not the case?

 

[Mathewrussell52]

what?

added insurance? for what?

are you afraid the "old" studs would lengthen?
you have no 10mm APE´s (CHN10125-10) in there?
i mean those where the head nuts get 80 Nm.

studs are never built/made to lengthen - even when you loose and tighten them 5 or 10 times - you allways can use them again.
look at APE´s page or better phone them to ask, if their studs are "expansion" studs - i don´t think so.

i myself had a head gasket change 4 or 5 month ago 10 mm APE´s were in.

It’s prob not needed. It’s winter nothing else to do. But I do plan on turning up the boost a little some day.