Dialing up the Pro Oiler

[Z-Faucon]

I installed a pro-oiler on my K8 and have been running it for 1,200 miles now. At first I was using table 13 setting #3. Appeared to be putting out way too much oil. The chain was wet to the touch and too much splash on the rims lisc plate etc.. I practiced with a few settings and now been running table 14 setting #3. But still have throw on the rim and oil streaks on my tire side wall with a 1/4 inch oil line on the tire edge. This is not good. The chain however is not wet to the touch on this setting but chauky black to the touch. All comparisons said are in dry weather, 75 - 85 degrees. Anyone care to compare notes with me?

 

[rykstr]

My pro oiler when unfolded is six four, and weighs in at 260 Lbs. Does an awesome job, but is prone to being tempramental.

Actually I dont know anyone that has said anything nice about them, Good luck with yours. I would think that you would still have to put the bike in the air to remove the sling off once a week.

 

[Warchild]

Actually I dont know anyone that has said anything nice about them

Get ready to learn then, because I have nothing but the highest praise for this product. And I've tried every chain oiler on the face of the planet: Pro-Oiler, ScottOiler, HawkeOiler, Loobman, etc, etc, etc.

NONE OF THEM even approach the capabilities and performance of the Pro-Olier. If there was a better automatic chain-oiler, I would be using it.

That said, it is true that it take a fair good amouint of effort to find that *exact* setting where there is just enough oil flow to do the job... but no more than that. It can take some fair amount trial-n-error to obtain the correct settings, but it is absolutely worth it.

There is only ONE reason I am still running the original OEM chain, at just shy of 30,000 miles on my K8 - the Pro-Oiler! I never have had to adjust the chain, aside from the adjustment it gets during rear tire changes.

Z-Faucon - IMO your settings are still way, waaaaay too high, which is why you are seeing the excess that you are (this is ASSuming that you have the Correction Factor set properly)

I run with Table 16, Setting 2 - which is a good bit leaner than your current Table 13, Setting #3.

 

[Mr Bogus]

$250? is that right?

 

[Warchild]

Yep, $249 for full-retail; it's some spendy stuff... the Good $hit always costs more. You can likely find it for less if you google hard enough for it.

 

[Aquaman]

Not my cup of Tea!

 

[Z-Faucon]

I have nothing bad to say about the Pro-Oil. In fact, I like the concept, design, and engineering that went into the product. That said, Ill take a few pictures this weekend and post em up so all can take a look. I know I'll have to be patient till I find the right dial in for me. It's a learning experience.

I set the correction factor by rotating the back tire (when up) 10x and then saving the number indicated on the controller.

 

[Z-Faucon]

After 1000 mi trip this is the result. Settings for first 600 mi on table 16, S1 then moved up to table 17, S1 with TASC to r3 (default to aggressive)

My correction factor was set at 9.5 determined after 10 rotations of the tire pulsed out at 95 then divided by 10 = correction factor of 9.5

During the trip we did plenty of cruisning at 80 - 90 mph with several high speed runs at well over a ton.

I'm starting to get frustrated with these results but still trying to sort it out. Hope these pics come out.

Any thoughts?

 

[2Wheels2Live]

Man what a mess :unhappy: I know they help with wet weather riding, but I replace tires every 3000 miles and adjust chain then anyways, and the expense, hassle of install and (mainly) mess is the reason I'll never own one. I'm not saying their not good.....just not good for me

 

[Warchild]

Any thoughts?

Yep... I am pretty sure your Correction Factor is incorrect. I am about 97.3% sure it is responsible for the over-oiling.

I run Table 16, setting 2 - which flows more than Table 17 - and I don't have a fraction of the fling-off you do. But my correction factor - IIRC - was in the upper 7.0 range, thereabouts. I believe a correction factor of 9.5 is quite excessive.

When I get home tonight, I'll look in my Service Manual where I wrote down what I use as the Correction Factor.

No worries; we'll get ya hooked up, 'bro.....

 

[Z-Faucon]

Thanks lease: need help. The higher ther correction factor the leaner the oil flow. For example 9.5 per tire revolution applies less oil than does 7.5 per tire revolution. It would appear that I need a higher correction factor. But I am curious as to what settings you are running.

 

[patton37]

I know the correction factor of the glutinous maximums is 7.9865 / 8.564 to the google plex.
So if you run a 4.545 setting per rotation of the main tire divide that by 5.657 you get the proper flow of the good lube so sezz nice and wet but dry
Man all this when you could just oil the friggen thing couple times a week!!!
:

 

[Warchild]

Oiling once a week is probably just fine for the casual rider, since they can stop and lube the chain at their convenience. But for the serious riders racking up the miles non-stop, there is no time to dink around trying to lube a chain on a bike with no centerstand.

But I am curious as to what settings you are running.

Well, fook me running, I had this figure totally backwards, and you were correct... higher number is leaner. I am running that same 9.5 correction factor you are, and here is my rear wheel/chain at Table 16, Setting 2....

My wheel in this photo hasn't been cleaned in 4000 miles, and as you can see, it has diddley for fling-off compared to your wheels. If anything, I am running a bit too lean here. So if you actually have the CF set at 9.5, then Table 17 should yield bone-dry oil flow. Clearly, it isn't. Obviously, something is wrong.

I think your CF setting may not be correct. You may believe it's correctly set at 9.5.... but the behavior suggests otherwise. That, or you really do have a rare bad module that needs replacing.

I would start at the beginning... go back and re-set all your numbers again. ENSURE your Correction Factor is entered correctly... you need to follow the specific directions to the nth degree.

Then set that baby to Table 16, Setting 2... and ride for a good 50+ miles before drawing any conclusions

If you are still a freakin' Hayabusa Valdez after 50+ miles, leaking your oil everywhere, then time to drop ProOiler an email and say WTFO?

 

[Z-Faucon]

WOW, I wish my chain looked like your's. Well I will take your advice and do over the entire set up. This confirms for me that I should be somewhere around Table 16 as you are. I will also check the EMI to see if I am getting any interference. Thanks for getting back to me War. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

After 1000 mi trip this is the result. Settings for first 600 mi on table 16, S1 then moved up to table 17, S1 with TASC to r3 (default to aggressive)

My correction factor was set at 9.5 determined after 10 rotations of the tire pulsed out at 95 then divided by 10 = correction factor of 9.5

During the trip we did plenty of cruisning at 80 - 90 mph with several high speed runs at well over a ton.

I'm starting to get frustrated with these results but still trying to sort it out. Hope these pics come out.

Any thoughts?

View attachment 1509366

View attachment 1509367

View attachment 1509368

View attachment 1509369

OMG, This would BUG THE HELL OUT OF ME! That chit is everywhere, not to mention the cleaning hassle, BUT THAT IS FRIGGING DANEROUS AS HELL!!! If that crap gets on your tire, hit a hard left hand corner, and well you get the point.......... I Could see "SOME" people needing one on these, but damn, is it really worth the money and hassle, vrs just cleaning and lubing your chain ounce or twice a week? I could see if you did like 3,000 miles a week in the rain or desert("WAR") But man, that looks like a pain in da ! JMO ???

 

[Z-Faucon]

Called Pablo, he said up the table or correction factor but most likely it is an EMI issue. I ran the entire set up again.

Checked the correction factor - it is 9.5 GOOD same as War.

Checked the ground/earth. Made sure it is good. I have it grounded to the rear peg bolt to the sub frame. Scraped the paint so that the ground is solid to metal. GOOD

Re checked the connection to the speed sensor wire. You can see it here. It is the yellow wire connected to the speed sensor wire. I solded the wire GOOD

Checked the junction box. All wires are connected solid. You can see it there in the rear side pannel. GOOD

Checked the EMI (electro magnetic interference), put the system in "Ot" set the counter to zero and started it up. Holy F$%k. The counter is clicking up 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8.... Damn. :unhappy: It is getting EMI ? But why. Checked everything over and over started it up again and again but same result EMI. Where the F is it coming from. :wtf:

Then it dawned on me. The SOB rear wheel is moving in neutral. So I got a broom stick and stopped the rear wheel :wow: NO MORE EMI. counter is always at zero. It was counting the rear wheel revolutions. Now my counter is at zero meaning I am not getting any EMI hence my system is electrically clean. GOOD

So I am going to put this ***** back together in the morning, run her at table 16 Step 1. Go north to Vermont tomorrow. If I get an oil mess then Pablo is getting this sent back. But I'm still hopping - glass half full. lease:
View attachment 1509419

View attachment 1509420

View attachment 1509421

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Glad you found the problem bro Hope all works out

 

[Warchild]

Glad you found the problem bro Hope all works out

Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like he has, yet.... his findings all appear normal, thus he should not be seeing the excessive fling off shown in his earlier photos. So I am not sure he's outta the woods yet on this one.... guess we'll know after his run to Vermont.

 

[roadthing]

Oiling once a week is probably just fine for the casual rider, since they can stop and lube the chain at their convenience. But for the serious riders racking up the miles non-stop, there is no time to dink around trying to lube a chain on a bike with no centerstand.

That is one of the biggest lines of B.S. I have read in a long time. I respect your opinion, so don't be offended. I normally enjoy reading your posts, but I'm sorry that is just an irrational statement. It's not the kind of thing I have come to expect from a motorcycle enthusiast like yourself.

That reminds me very strongly of the many disasters encountered with owners of Harley FLs with the enclosed chains.

Stopping to lube a chain, as well as clean and inspect is not a matter of convenience, it is a necessity. Well, at least if you consider safety a priority.

 

[Warchild]

Stopping to lube a chain, as well as clean and inspect is not a matter of convenience, it is a necessity. Well, at least if you consider safety a priority.

C'mon, roadthing, you have *completely* missed the point here. Did you think I was advocating for folks to never inspect/lube their chain? Please..... ???

Let me re-phrase it for you: when one has an automatic chain oiler installed properly configured, it is no longer necessary to have to waste time while on the road dinking around with chain cleaning/lubing/adjusting. The chain stays relatively clean, properly lubed, and rarely requires adjustment in between tire changes.

But if you DON'T have a chain oiler, when then obviously you have to attend to it on a periodic basis...

For Long Distance/Iron Butt riders who engage in multi-day Endurance Riding competition, the only way they can use a chain-drive bike it to have a proper chain oiler. What you missed is that my comments are directed at those individuals.... with a chain oiler fitted and properly functioning, my original statement stands: you no longer have to stop and waste time attending to the chain.