Crashed bike won't start


I have an '03 Busa that was recently crashed. I am replacing all the broke stuff.
Now when I turn on the key the gauges light up and in the middle of the inst. cluster the upper window displays: CHEC.
The temp gauge is pegged all the way to the top, even with the sensor unplugged.
I can jump the solenoid and the engine will spin but not start.
Is there some sort of reset for the diagnostics?
Does the CHEC code have some meaning?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry to hear about the crash. If you have the Busa service manual that's making the rounds, check that out.

Hope you figure it out!
I have an '03 Busa that was recently crashed. I am replacing all the broke stuff.
Now when I turn on the key the gauges light up and in the middle of the inst. cluster the upper window displays: CHEC.
The temp gauge is pegged all the way to the top, even with the sensor unplugged.
I can jump the solenoid and the engine will spin but not start.
Is there some sort of reset for the diagnostics?
Does the CHEC code have some meaning?
Thanks in advance.
I'm guessing tip-over sensor , hasn't , or needs to be re-set.
Maybe try this first : disconect battery,re-hook, whats it doin' ?
The chec thing is normal till it starts....on my y2k Can vers. anyway .
With the Chec light and pegged temp gauge it sounds like the kill switch is off but I wouldn't crank if it was. If you jump the starter and it will crank but not start I would check out the kill switch it sounds like it might be bad.
Just a thought here, when it went down did it hit the kickstand sensor at all.
If it's broken or not reading correctly it probably won't start.
Thanks for the responses. I suspect that the tip (bank angle) sensor is the problem. Is there a way to test or bypass the device before I go out and buy a new one?
I checked it with a meter and it read 61.7 ohms. Does anyone have a shop manual that gives specs on what this should read?
I tried disconnecting the battery overnight and that didn't reset it, is there another way perhaps?

Look elsewhere.  as long as the wire to and from it are good that is the correct reading for the tip over switch.  
You can cheat it with a 60-65 ohm resistor.  Check the switch connector. If the battery fell out in the accident it may have ripped up the connector.
David, glad to hear your OK after puting it down. Sorry for the bike.

When my CHEC is on it is because I am trying to start with ether the kick stand down while it is in gear or my kill switch is off. The fuel pump won't whine until these are cleared even if the key is on and the gauges are lit. You need to have the temp sensor plugged in too. The ECU reads it to calculate fuel squirt. Without it nothing will happen and you will get a failure "code". These guy are right. Your crash may have damaged the switches in the grips or kickstand in a way that you can not see. Or the connectors and/or the wiring may be broken and not making contact? If your key is "on" and the gauges are lit and the "chec" is displayed and the fuel pump is NOT grinding, then the ECU is ready to give you a "code".

To get the failure code from the dash,you need a switch or simply a piece of wire to jumper the white connector under your seat. It is a two wire connector at the rear of the driver seat on the left side (when sitting on the bike). Mine was tucked up under the main harness at the far left rear about at the space between the front and read seats. You may have to pull the plastic cowl to find it. Once you find it, turn on the key, wait 4 seconds and then jump the two wires in the connector with a small wire. Do not let this wire touch the frame and short out. It will cause the dash clock to give you an indication like -C00 if all is good. Any other code (like -C12) is the reason your bike won't start. There about 40 codes it can give you. I have the shop manual and it has all the codes and fixes in it. I'll be glad to help as will anyone on this board. The ECU is really intellegent and will tell you exacty what is wrong...If you have the decoder information. Suzuki doesn't just give it out. They make you spend $70 on a shop manual.

Once you get the engine started, warmed up and idling, the same indicator can tell you if the Throttle position sensor is adjusted right. The "-" in front of the code (-C00) is the adjusting mark. If the tick is high or low of center then the TPS needs to be adjusted. _C00 is low adjust, etc.

I have a hard wired switch in the trunk for codes and TPS adjustment. I probably check it twice a month. Right now my TPS is way off and the fuel milage is only 32/gallon (38-40 is normal). I plan to fix it later today.

Good luck,
Does anyone have a shop manual
I have it on disk . It cost me a few bucks to mail it + the cost of a blank disk + time,yadda yadda yadda .
It's yers for the unbelievably LOW-COST of one tee-shirt or a donation to the site.
Buy a shirt from the cap (if ya want) an' I'll mail it to ya .

pm with yer adress,if ya dont wanna post it .
Thank to SierraFlyer for the response but I tried what you suggested and it didn't give me a code. It stayed CHEC.
The crash took out the left side of the bike and I am checking everything I can. If it is the stop switch or the wiring to it how can I test or bypass to see if that is the problem?
I tested the sidestand switch with my ohm meter and it didn't change when I pressed the plunger, it shows and open circuit.
I can see that stopping the engine but I have a neutral light showing so I don't think the sidestand is the problem.
I am open for more suggestions.........
I forgot to ask if your FI light is on? Was it before you unlugged your battery? Or does it turn on when you press the starter button?

A quote from the manual:

"CHEC: the LCD panel indicates "chec" when no communication signal from the ECM (ECU) is received for 5 seconds.
For example:
The ignition switch is turned on, and the engine stop switch is turned OFF. In this case, the speedometer does not receive any signal from the ECM, and the panel indicates "chec".
If CHEC is indicated, and the LCD does not indicate trouble code, it is neccessary to check the wiring between the ECM and the speedometer couplers.
The possible cause of this indication is as follows:
Engine stop switch is in OFF position. Side Stand/ignition inter-lock system is not working. Ignition fuse is burnt."

Yes if you're in neutral the side stand won't prevent starting when the system is in good shape. Maybe it needs a closed signal to operate?

On CODE, Did you find the correct socket to jumper? It is a 4 connector white socket with two wires used. It has a black rubber dust cap on it. The wires are colored white with a red stripe and black with a white stripe. Make sure the jumper wire is fully into the connector and touching the metal tabs. It takes a couple of seconds for the display to flip. Also the ECU has to go through a diagnositic mode. It takes four seconds from the time you turn on the key. Removing the battery will erase old codes. The new code should be the same if the problem hasn't been fixed. Check your kill switch again and all the wires and connectors back to the ECU. That is the other reason it gives a chec indication.

let me know if this helps or you need more data from the manual.
OK I think I have got it. Looking at the schematic, it is clear that one circuit is responsible for starting your bike and the CHEC indication. First the battery lead goes to the 30 amp main fuse then on to two 15 amp fuses. Since you are getting lights and indicators, it is not the 30A fuse or the main switch. One of the 15A fuses powers the side stand relay(fuse #4). It is activated by the sidestand switch mounted down on the kick stand. It needs to be closed (pushed in) to allow the relay to pass current onto the kill switch and then onto the starter button. Power from the kill switch also goes onto the ECM to indicate it is alright to run the engine. The power from the start button goes to the ECM too. Another wire comes out of the ECM and goes to the starter relay to fire off the engine. Until the ECM gets the power from the side stand relay it will not communicate to the LCD display and it will indicate CHEC. Also this power is needed to allow the engine to start and remain running. One thing you need to know is that the sidestand switch has a diode in it. This prevents back current into other systems of the GSP. You have to measure the resistance in both directions to see if the switch is toast. In one direction it will give you an infinite resistance indication either on or off. The other way it will give you an infinite ohms (open) in the Off position and a small resistance in the ON poistion. ON is pushed in.

I wouldn't jumper the side stand switch without a diode as it might fry something down stream that is very expensive (ECM).

My guess is that the 15A fuse is blown. The fuses and side stand relay are under the cowl near your left handle bar (below it). Next it might be the side stand switch or the wires down there. After that check the kill switch for resistance. ON is closed and OFF is open. After that you have wiring harness/connectors disconnected. OR the ECU was damaged in the fall?
I really appreciate the time and trouble you have gone to for my problem. By shear dumb luck I got the engine to fire this afternoon and I think you had it figured out. I was ohm testing the leads going to the relay beside the fuse panel. I think you referred to this as the sidestand relay. I accidentally crossed two orange wires while the key was on and presto, I heard the fuel pump kick in! The temp gauge reset to zero and when I touched the starter it roared to life!
This relay obviously took a hard whack in the crash and stopped working. I will have a new one soon. Now I just need some bodywork and a paint job and we will be riding again.
Thanks again for your insight and patience.