Cloudy clutch fluid

[Wag]

Better seals in your brake system than the clutch system. It's not a bog deal though. Flush n fill, good as new.

I suspect that's absolutely true. The weak point is at the bottom near the slave piston where the rod goes through the clutch basket.

--Wag--

[alexx]

I recommend using DOT 5.1, has a higher boiling point.
I

[Wag]

I recommend using DOT 5.1, has a higher boiling point.
I

Not necessary for the clutch system but nothing wrong with it, either.

Once in a while, you have to change out the cup in the slave piston in order to keep it from developing small leaks. Easy to do. Helps to clear up the fluid for a while, too.

--Wag--

[Speezak]

i always changed all the master cylinders of all my bikes to dot 5
don't forget to flush all the old crap out through the lines and piston assembly
.

[oneclassic70]

On a Bus,

To replace the clutch fluid, I did the following:

- remove LHS fairing lower
- remove coolant resevoir & place to one side
- connect bleed hose to bleed nipple on top of clutch release mechanism.
- remove clutch fluid resevoir outer & inner covers as well as rubber boot. (take care you don't get clutch fluid *anywhere* - if you do wash immediately with water)
- bleed clutch until resevoir nearly empty
- top up with fresh fluid
- continue to bleed & top up until all residue is gone (takes about 3-4 top-up's)
- put everything back together.

((Note: I did all this with exception of suctioning all the old from the rez and refilling with new Dot 4 ad then proceeding to bleed as was mentioned. .I as well placed a towel under the rez to avoid any spillage onto the bike..and dried the inside of rez prior to filling it to ensure a clean glass viewer.. good luck..)
The new master cyl resevoirs are great to work with - they have good sealing systems and they don't squirt fluid everywhere when you're bleeding them. I'm going to have to disassemble the master cyl & resevoir someday, though - there's still some crud stuck to the sight glass on the resevoir.

Hope this helps,
Murray

I interjected my note in with what Murray wrote..

[Vanishing Point]

Hello from The Netherlands, all busa's need this part.
KPS owner Paul , called a Anti-Grey-Clutch-System or so.
Link:
KPS Kupplungs Verschmutzungsschutz Alle Baujahre 99 - 2010 MOT-001 / KOJAKS Turbo Hayabusa POWER SHOP -- Turbo Hayabusa Umbau Zubehör Teile

I use this part for 1 year now and no grey color.

This is also the Firm. that makes "the red damper" rear wheel /sprocket

Greetings from The Netherlands , Kees

[woz booth]

thanks , for the detailed info.i will try this and see how i go on !

[Energizer]

Guys, i wonder how you didn't know about slave cylinder weakness... )) Probably that's you have much cleaner streets Common problem here.
Dirt from chain hits and sticks to slave cylinder and it's rod. When it becomes way to dirty, slave cylinder can even malfunction.

I have one more question, in case if this happens, cleaning up slave cylinder doesn't help often. Tell me please, where i can purchase clutch slave cylinder repair kit, in USA?

[Freechance]

That rod collects a lot of dirt from the chain and if not cleaned,u will get dark fluid and possibly a leak .. I replaced the whole thing last year..it cost me around 200 plus a new rod..they make a sand and seal kit online to keep dirt out..but there really hard to find..they were sold out or i would have bought one..i have not had any trouble since i replaced it or any dark fluid..i also just tried to change the fluid first but after a while it does back to dirty fluid..

[Energizer]

Guys, still no idea where to get Slave Cylinder Repair Kit in the US?
Google didn't help...

[Lucid]

I've googled "hayabusa clutch slave repair" or rebuild on google a lot and there are always links. cycle brakes has em.

[Energizer]

Lucid, i did the same and all of the sales are closed...
Will check Cycle Brakes, thanks!