Chain change + Sprocket = Standard?

[eynlai]

Just in case some of you forgot, this is my first bike. With more than 12K miles on it in about 1 year, I think it might be time to change the chain.

I've been reading up on it. But it seems everyone that change their chains also changed the driven sprocket. Is it necessary to change both at the same time? I'm not looking to move one tooth up for anymore torque, and my OEM driven sprocket seems fine.

Can I change just the chain? And second question is: How hard is it to do it myself? I have a Pitbull rear stand that I bought just so I can easily clean and lube the chain.

Thanks

 

[BigBSBusa]

IMO you should check the wear on the sprocket as a definitive means of determining whether to change or not. However, I would recommend changing the sprocket at the same to avoid any unnecessary wear as the mileage builds on the bike.

 

[billbell]

I have just changed my front sprocket to a 16T and the stock one did not have any sign of wear. I have around 8500 miles on it. Take care of your chain and it should be good to you.

 

[rubbersidedown]

the counter shaft sprocket(on the trans) and the rear sprocket should ALWAYS be changed as a set.

The chain wears to match the sprogs. Change all 3 as a set. chain/front sprog/rear sprog.

yer talkin about a few bucks. Buy the best chain you can afford and the stock sprockets.

an' we'll talk ya thru it. step x step....


hav a well adjusted 1...RSD.

 

[bacharles]

eynlai, if you've considering changing the front sprocket, then just hit me up with an address. I've still got my stock front sprocket with less than 1000 miles on it. I'll give it to ya for FREE! I know that they are inexpensive, but no need to spend the extra $20 if you don't have to. You will already spend close to $200 on a new chain and rear sprocket. Also, it will depend a lot on how you ride your bike whether you need the new sprockets or not. But I do have a stock front if you want it. I have a stock rear somewhere with probably 2000 miles on it and you can have it for $10 if I can find it...

 

[shenoyp]

eynlai... I think its better to change the sprocket when you change the chain! It will extend the life of your new chain. I'm not too sure if you will have to change the chain for 12k miles, if you have maintained it well. I have quite a few friends of mine that have 954's and R1 and Fireblades who have done quite a bit more than 12k mile and are still on their first saet of chains....

 

[ks-waterbug]

the counter shaft sprocket(on the trans) and the rear sprocket should ALWAYS be changed as a set.

  The chain wears to match the sprogs.  Change all 3 as a set.  chain/front sprog/rear sprog.

   yer talkin about a few bucks.  Buy the best chain you can afford and the stock sprockets.

  an' we'll talk ya thru it.  step x step....


   hav a well adjusted 1...RSD.

RSD hit this one on the nose....

Are you sure that your ready for a change? Have you checked the sag and adjusters for this chain? Have you given the original sprockets a good looking over for wear? These are just some of the things to consider before you run out and buy a replacement set.... Got over 15,000 miles on my original set-up (I perform regular maintenance on the chain).

 

[Red05]

There's a lot of theories on chain lubrication....it can be thread in itself. I have yet to see a chain lube that doesn't sling or make a mess, not to mention act as a magnet for dirt. Wax also holds the dirt well. I use WD40 every few days or even every other ride. If you have a rear stand it's a piece of cake. I spray for a few revolutions, than wipe with a red mechanics' rag. I've gotten over 20K on a chain/gear set-up but this is my first Busa. We'll see how this works on The King.

 

[bacharles]

 

[eynlai]

My driven sprocket seems fine (according to the picture in the manual I compared it to). Clean my chain with Kerosene and brass wire brush and lube with various brand of chain lube (Motul, Swiss Lube, etc...) about 500 to 700 miles. I think I have about 3 or 4 more notches on the adjuster on the swing arm left to go.

So you folks think I'm go for now? I guess I can take pics and post it.

On a related note. How are the specs of the chain and sprockets read?? For example, what does 530 ZVX X-RING (EK), or 530V PROFESSIONAL SERIES O-RING CHAIN (DID), etc... mean? And what about the size? What about the sprockets readings?

And do I need any any special tool to do the change myself?

Thanks all

 

[rubbersidedown]

. I use WD40 every few days or even every other ride.

this is bad news...wd40 is a cleaner, NEVER trust the properties in wd40 to act as a lubricant. In fact wd40 will succesfully REMOVE the grease that the factory puts IN the chain when its new.

clean yer chain with wd40 if ya want, or kerosene...

but then it must be lubed.


hav a well linked 1... RSD.

 

[rubbersidedown]

My driven sprocket seems fine (according to the picture in the manual I compared it to).  Clean my chain with Kerosene and brass wire brush

On a related note.  How are the specs of the chain and sprockets read??  For example, what does 530 ZVX X-RING (EK), or 530V PROFESSIONAL SERIES O-RING CHAIN (DID), etc... mean?  And what about the size?  What about the sprockets readings?

And do I need any any special tool to do the change myself?

Thanks all

no no no... Dont use a brass wire brush on yer chain.

It will destroy the o rings or the x-rings. see pic,the arrow points to wear these rings sit. Raking them with a wire brush is not the answer.

a zvx 530 is a fine chain. I have 35,000 clicks on mine.

the tensil strength is 10,500 thats tuff to beat,coupled with the X-ring technology....good chain.


special tools: you need a chain breaker or equivelant(die grinder,etc) for removal , then you'll need a couple things to install the chain . Dont go with a "clip type" master.
sure here comes the argument.... "My clip master has gone hundreds of miles without a problem"

so fuggin' what. If ya wanna do it right...go rivited.

Can be done with simple tools if ya want, couple hammers an' a punch or special tools.


hav a good 1....RSD

 

[rubbersidedown]

oops, 4got the fuggin' pic...

 

[BA BUSA]

You should always replace your sprockets when installing a new chain. If the chain isn't streched and the sprockets don't show excessive wear, then your still ok. WD40 is ok for cleaning, but you should always use chain lube or wax after cleaning your chain and rear sprocket.

 

[XZZR1200]

All three should be changed if the chain is bad. My X mechanic told me, no your sprockets look fine. Well $140 chain and 2 weeks later, new chain and sprockets and new mechanic!

 

[rubbersidedown]

You should always replace your sprockets when installing a new chain. . WD40 is ok for cleaning, but you should always use chain lube or wax after cleaning your chain

wow....

really....

who wooda guessed....

 

[rubbersidedown]

All three should be changed . My X mechanic told me, no your sprockets look fine. Well $140 chain and 2 weeks later, new chain and sprockets and new mechanic!

DOH....


or....ya coulda gone with: common sense
: the board
or more importantly....da Rubbah.

hav an' expensive 1.... RSD.

 

[rubbersidedown]

Just in case some of you think it might be time
I've been reading .  Is it the time?  
Can I change myself?  I have a Pitbull Thanks

go forth...an' multiply...

 

[Red05]

You should always replace your sprockets when installing a new chain. . WD40 is ok for cleaning, but you should always use chain lube or wax after cleaning your chain

wow....

 really....

    who wooda guessed....

RSD, I'm not here to argue, just pass on experience. On my 1980 GS1100, I put a liitle over 20K on a chain using only WD40. Granted I changed sprockets at approx 12K, but regardless, I had absolutely no issues or problems with the chain. The dirt attracted by the sticky lubes is much more damaging than the thinner lube, in my humble opinion. I've always experimented with things, and I found the WD40 method works great.

 

[babuski]

eynlai....I just bought a new DID X-ring chain. I also got brand new front and rear sprockets (stock). Total cost was about 190.00, but you could shop that much cheaper....or do what RSD (or was it Monsterspeed Freak) that suggested gettting together with other folks and buying huge lengths of chain for a cheaper cost and then just cutting them and splitting them....

and Red 05.....nice work keeping those chains going for so long...but the rear wheel HP and Torque on the 1980 GS 1100 doesn't compare with the numbers the busa puts out....and breaking a chain at 150 mph....ain't something I want to think about....