Can I change to GP Shift on my Gen 2?

Salty

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I did my first track day with my Gen 2 this past weekend and I kept on missing shifts from 1st into 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, real short track so I did not need any other gears...

This is the first time I have experienced any issues shifting on the Gen 2 Hayabusa and I have a little over 13k on the clock. Prior race bikes I have rode have all been GP shifted and my Gen 1 was GP Shifted as well so I think being on the track without GP shifting was just throwing my mind for a loop on shifting properly.

The change does not appear as simple as just flipping over the shifter attachment as on previous models. Is it possible still for me to change it over to a GP Shift or does anyone sell a GP Shift Kit for the Gen 2?
 
Vortex rearsets can be flipped over and used either way.

Just get an airshifter and be done with it, you can't footshift as fast as one either, so it'll help improve your time.
 
Vortex rearsets can be flipped over and used either way.

Just get an airshifter and be done with it, you can't footshift as fast as one either, so it'll help improve your time.

Thanks, Ill have to get me some Vortex Rear sets then...
 
I did it on my 04 just flip the rod to the bottom and then its all down.
 
I did it on my 04 just flip the rod to the bottom and then its all down.

Unfortunately its not quite as easy on the Gen 2 Hayabusa, it hits against the kick stand up sensor. I have seen a few mods where you can shave down the kickstand rear bolt to get around it or to remove/bypass the kickstand down sensor...
 
I have Satos on my 08 busa and those rearsets are available with a special lever for GP shift. If you want both standard and GP, levers its an extra $160 or so. There is a bolt on the back hiem joint of the Satos that has come loose twice. If that were to fall out, you'd have to reach down and shift with your hand. I loktited it and I keep an eye on it. The screws that come with the Satos have a 3mm hex which is too delicate. Easily replaced but careful when you tighten them. They won't take more than 'good and snug.'

I like the Vortex I have on my 14 a lot better. They look much more appropriate for a larger bike and they work just as good as the Satos + they cost less. If you dremmel out the recesses in the vortex heal guards they will be as lighter or lighter weight than the Satos.

The Gen2 busa has some heavy@$$ footpegs. Go to rearsets and you drop over 2 lbs.
 
I have Satos on my 08 busa and those rearsets are available with a special lever for GP shift. If you want both standard and GP, levers its an extra $160 or so. There is a bolt on the back hiem joint of the Satos that has come loose twice. If that were to fall out, you'd have to reach down and shift with your hand. I loktited it and I keep an eye on it. The screws that come with the Satos have a 3mm hex which is too delicate. Easily replaced but careful when you tighten them. They won't take more than 'good and snug.'

I like the Vortex I have on my 14 a lot better. They look much more appropriate for a larger bike and they work just as good as the Satos + they cost less. If you dremmel out the recesses in the vortex heal guards they will be as lighter or lighter weight than the Satos.

The Gen2 busa has some heavy@$$ footpegs. Go to rearsets and you drop over 2 lbs.

Thanks for the info on the Satos, I had not heard of them before. Ill definitely be going with the Vortex as a buddy of mine who owns a local shop is a Vortex dealer and I try my hardest to support local shops when I can...Thanks for the tip on dremmeling out the recesses....good looking out.
 
It's extremely difficult to measure ground cornering clearance because of factors like suspension, footpeg length and height adjustment of the pegs but the Vortex seems to have the widest range of adjustability out of the brands I researched (Sato, Vortex, Gilles Tooling) and it seems to me they can be adjusted highest and farthest back for max clearance. If you're drag racing, you probably want lowest. IDK how Vortex compares to the others for low peg height but I can tell you both Sato and Vortex have at least one setting that is lower than stock.

Also, if you want to retain the functioning of the rear brake light, you will need to order a fluid pressure sensor and install to the top of your master cylinder in place or the banjo bolt. It is really not necessary because the front brake will trigger the tail light.
 
Simple with stock. Just flip to front arm that goes on the shifter shaft spline. Sand down the allen that's in the way about 1/16" or so. So much nicer.
 
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