busa oil

[oldguy]

I see some discussion on oils in older threads so thought I would bring it up again. Sorry if everyone's tired of it. I've always used plain old castrol gtx 10/40 in the cool seasons and 20/50 in the summer heat in all my bikes. But in researching oils more lately I have switched to Shell rotella t 15/40 in my little gixxer. Yamaha does not recommend deisel specified oils in the vmax despite deisel oils also having the sg, sh, or sl, gasoline ratings. I suspect they just want to peddle their overpriced 20/40. I've never tried synthetic oils because its my belief that oil gets dirty and contaminated whether its synthetic or not. I change oil often, thinking this is the safest and best thing to do for an engine. I invite others point of views on this on all bikes and the busa in particular. Thanks.

 

[Charlesbusa]

I use a blend of synthetic and non-synthetic. There are good points on all the different oils(synthetic, blend, non-synthetic), so I use blend "just cause". I gotta pick something.

 

[busahaya]

I use Mobile 1 Full Synthetic.

 

[Blue Streak]

I use mobil 1 15w/50 "red cap" full synthetic.

 

[GOD]

I need to change my oil too.........i have no doubt in my mind that sythetic works better, maybe not longer, but better than normal oil, but i was afraid of any problems with clutch slippage.....i have an 04 with 2400 miles on it.....any thoughts on this would be greatly apreciated!

 

[BA BUSA]

I have an 03 Busa and a 04 CBR1000RR and I use Mobil 1 15/50 red cap in both with no clutch problems. I use the regular automotive blend. Both bikes are used on the street and at the track.

 

[GOD]

I have an 03 Busa and a 04 CBR1000RR and I use Mobil 1 15/50 red cap in both with no clutch problems. I use the regular automotive blend. Both bikes are used on the street and at the track.

you don't think 15/50 is too thick? would 10 40 be too thin? what are the pros and cons of thicker and thinner oil? COST IS NO OPTION FOR ME! I will spend 100 dollars on oil if it is the best....i would use the suzuki oil if i thought it were best, but i heard it's not.....i got a k&n oil filter from a friend(since his motorcycle was stolen), has anyone heard how good they are? sorry to sound so ignorant. I have a fair understanding of these sort of questions, but i still rather revert to experience over hearsay.

 

[BA BUSA]

15/50 full synthetic mobil 1 red cap. They make a 5/30 and a 10/30 but everybody I know that uses Mobil 1 goes with the 15/50. Check with NINJA EATER on this board he runs a turbo and knows what works best.

 

[BA BUSA]

10/40 is what Suzuki uses in a conventional oil. Under extreme conditions such as hard riding or a hot climate 90+ degrees the 15/50 would be the only way to go. If you are in a cold climate 50 degrees or less and did not do any type of hard riding then the 10/30 might be a good choice.

 

[BigBSBusa]

Going to try some Silkolene in Baby J next.

 

[GOD]

does anyone know if using oil other than suzuki will void the warrenty?

 

[Turbo-Torch]

You're not going to go wrong with Mobile 1 red cap. It's high quality, readily available and reasonably priced.

You will not void your warranty by using another brand oil (as long as it meets API requirements), doing your own first service or any maintenance for that matter.

As far as the overpriced dealer oils...have you ever known anybody to have an engine failure in a car or bike due to the brand of oil they used?

About the viscosity...look at the chart in your owners manual. In the '04 manual it's page 9. Unless your riding in temperatures below 10 degrees F there is no reason not to use 15W/50. If you go with 10W/40 you can ride along safely at -4 degrees. 15W/50 will offer better protection for higher temperatures.

Oil filters are only about $10 bucks from your dealer and personally that's all I would use. You never know what you'll get with an aftermarket filter and if it falls apart you'll clog up an oil passage and ruin your engine. At the very least stay away from Fram.

 

[GOD]

cool.....thanks alot for the info.....Yeah, i heard fram not too good.

 

[Turbo-Torch]

One other thing I forgot to mention...make sure the oil you choose does not have friction modifiers. There is an API seal (circle symbol) on all oil bottles. If there are friction modifiers it will say so in the crescent.
Mobile 1 with the red colored cap (which a lot of people around here recommend) does not have those evil modifiers that cause clutch slippage.

 

[hooken203]

I think this post says it all. Motor oil is motor oil. None of the debate matters. I used 0w syn 3k miles this summer. Everyday riding,drag strip and many miles at high speed with no problems. There is a performance parts producer that many of us buy parts from that says Mobil1 5w30 is OK in your Busa. As far as I know all of that oil is energy conserving so I dont think that matters either.

 

[clrwtrbusa]

I use only Castrol Actevo 10w-40 in the Turbo bike and Mobil 1 in the 1000.

The Busa shifts smoother than when I used synthetic stuff.

 

[atticdog]

I use amsoil synth or mobil 1

 

[GOD]

guys, i know this sounds really stupid, but the owners manual recomends 3.5 qts of oil with filter change.........i used just a little over 3.5 qts and it's not at the full mark....as a matter of fact, i don't see it at all.....i only went over maybe 1/8 of a qt.......is it just so full that it's past the full line and the see through window? or does it take more? how much do you have to put in it?

 

[hooken203]

Make sure bike is straight up when your looking at the window.

 

[Turbo-Torch]

The owners manual that comes with the bike is wrong. The factory shop manual states 3.7 quarts when using a new filter or 3.5 quarts without new filter.

As someone already stated make sure the bike is sitting level. Be very careful when leaning the bike back on the kick stand while you're on the right side of the bike. If that POS stand moves so much as an inch the bike will go over.