Brakes!!

07vigorblue

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I put my calipers back on from powder coating them. I installed all new seals and new pads. I have bled and bled and bled them and the still feel spongey to me. Is it just me or is there something wrong. Especially the rear brake, It seems as if the lever has to go down too far to to make it stop. Its still on the stands so i have not ride the bike since last summer. Also I did install new brake ans clutch levers if that make a diff.
 
There is a significant difference between 1) the spongy feel and 2) the lever engaging after excessive travel but then being pretty hard and not spongy.

Could you clarify which one is that? 2nd one is an easy fix.
 
Do you have to pump the brakes to get them to work or is it just you don't think they're doing their job. If you're having to pump them, then you need to keep bleeding them.
 
air air air, invest in a mighty vac or rent one from autozone
 
There is a significant difference between 1) the spongy feel and 2) the lever engaging after excessive travel but then being pretty hard and not spongy.

Could you clarify which one is that? 2nd one is an easy fix.

It would be #2
 
Do you have to pump the brakes to get them to work or is it just you don't think they're doing their job. If you're having to pump them, then you need to keep bleeding them.

No i dont have to pump them they just feel extremely weak to me. It seems there should be more pressure, but there is no air in the lines at all.
 
I forgot to mention that I switched to HEL lines

I went from stock lines, levers, and pads to Chazzo Levers, HEL lines and EBC Extreme pro front pads and HH rear pads. I just bled them again and just feel weak:stoopid: :banghead:
 
No i dont have to pump them they just feel extremely weak to me. It seems there should be more pressure, but there is no air in the lines at all.

give this a try , pull in the front brake lever and let it snap back while vigorously wiggling the front brake line just below the master cylinder(with reservoir cap on!) often this will dislodge a few stubborn bubbles at the banjo bolt.Or you could buy banjo bolts with bleeders
 
I forgot to mention that I switched to HEL lines

I went from stock lines, levers, and pads to Chazzo Levers, HEL lines and EBC Extreme pro front pads and HH rear pads. I just bled them again and just feel weak:stoopid: :banghead:

HH pads take at least 100 miles to bed in and work to their full potential
 
HH pads take at least 100 miles to bed in and work to their full potential

I didnt know that. I have not even got the bike out yet Im just worried about the brakes for some reason. Also I just did what you suggested and seemed to net some more pressure in the lever.
 
here ar pics of th lever not pulled in and when it starts to get tight(from that point on the front tire cannot be turned with my arm strength)

001.jpg


002.jpg
 
Its set on 6 so it cant go out any farther LOL
sorry,I was looking at the adjuster...:banghead:
about the brake feel keep in mind that less effort will be required with your new set up without the spongy stock brake lines and hard compound pads so if everything looks safe ride it a while before you make up your mind
 
You could try taking the whole master cylinder assembly off, wrap a cloth around it then stand it in a way that the lever end is pointing at the roof.
Leave it like this overnight.
Air tends to get caught where the Banjo fitting mounts to the Master Cylinder, leaving it in this position can provide a clear path for the air bubbles to rise and exit the lines and into the fluid bowl.

This worked for me when I worked on my clutch last week!.

** IMPORTANT** Make sure the Master Cylinder cover is tightened on, otherwise you will have fluid everywhere.
 
sorry,I was looking at the adjuster...:banghead:
about the brake feel keep in mind that less effort will be required with your new set up without the spongy stock brake lines and hard compound pads so if everything looks safe ride it a while before you make up your mind

Unless you pinch your fingers while braking,if you pinch give it another go with bleeding. riding with a lever that pinches is dangerous IMHO
 
just rent the might vac from your nearest auto store you wont be sorry, the problem your having happens allot to people that disassemble their brakes completely
 
It would be #2

OK. Your solution is very simple. I also assume that your lever was adjusted to engage as soon as possible.

Let me explain first what is happening as I had exactly the same problem after rebuilding the calipers. The seals simply pull the pistons back slightly when you release the lever. So, the next time you pull the lever the pistons need to travel an extra distance - hence the excessive lever travel. This same issue actually occurs when the pads wear off. So, here is a 10 min solution.

There is also a simple way to verify whether this is the case. Pump the lever vigorously about 5 - 10 times (squeeze as hard as you can and release as fast as you can) and on the last squeeze hold it and see if the lever stops noticeably further from the handlebar. If it does, that's the case. If you release, and try pulling the lever 10 - 20 sec later but only once, it will be the same old problem. All of these symptoms would confirm the issue described above.

Pull the pads from only one caliper. While the pads are out of the caliper, pull the lever ONLY ONCE and release. Try to fit the pads back in. If they go in easily and stay lose, pull them out again, and pull the lever ONLY ONCE and release. Put the pads back in. If they fit in snug - you are good with this caliper - keep the pads in. You will also notice that one pad seems to get tight first while the other one is still loose. So, leave the tight pad in place, and repeat the exercise with just another pad out. But only pull the lever half way at a time.

Once both pads are snuggly in, leave them in, and move on to the next caliper repeating all the same steps. You can try using partial lever pulls.

Once you are done with both calipers, don't be afraid to pump the lever and see how it feels.

Now if you accidentally over extend the pistons, don't worry. Gently push them in either with your bare hands (your fingers), or something flat (like a large flat screwdriver -just be gentle so you don't damage the pistons) - the key is to apply steady pressure for a few seconds to each piston which is out too far and try to apply pressure at slightly different angles - don't try to move a piston too quickly. Since you just rebuilt them, they will move with relative ease. Also, don't move them back in too far - all you need is to move them back in a fraction of a millimiter, so if you do need and attempt to push them back in, check frequently if the pad already fits in.
 
OK. Your solution is very simple. I also assume that your lever was adjusted to engage as soon as possible.

Pull the pads from only one caliper. While the pads are out of the caliper, pull the lever ONLY ONCE and release.

I did that and only the center pistons are moving:banghead:
 
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