Australia - Gen2 RCC Stage 1 Kit Build

Another busy day. Mostly fiddly stuff modifying parts. The rest seems easy. But I had to take my time on the oil pan and fuel pump. With no spares in case of making errors, I had to be sure I got it right first time.

Oil Restrictor removed
Oil pan modified
Fuel pump modified
Oil Gallery plug removed and replaced with the turbo oil feed fitting
Oil cooler block-off plates fitted
Secondary throttle plates removed
New MAP sensor installed

There aren't many photos online regarding the fuel pump modification for the RCC kit. The supplied instructions aren't too bad, but do imply some prior knowledge.
Here's some photos of the fuel pump dismantled in sections for those who haven't done this yet and are considering the RCC kit. I found info on this to be the hardest to find in a clear breakdown. Overall it wasn't difficult for a first timer (that's what she said).
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An overall part breakdown
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9/16" hole drilled for fuel fitting after centre section comprising of pump and filter bag removed.
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Fuel fitting attached with a gasket washer, nut, thread sealant and red loktite on the nut.
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Remaining unused parts left over and not needed consisting of housing, pump, regulator and filter.
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The sump oil pan turned out well. Drilled out on a drill press sitting on a block of wood held it nice and flat for a right angle drilled hole.
 
Hey all,
This may seem like a silly question, could someone tell me how much extra oil the bike will need with an RCC Stage 1 Turbo system installed in addition to a stock Busa oil quantity? I just wanted to know in advance. Thanks
 
Another busy day. Mostly fiddly stuff modifying parts. The rest seems easy. But I had to take my time on the oil pan and fuel pump. With no spares in case of making errors, I had to be sure I got it right first time.

Oil Restrictor removed
Oil pan modified
Fuel pump modified
Oil Gallery plug removed and replaced with the turbo oil feed fitting
Oil cooler block-off plates fitted
Secondary throttle plates removed
New MAP sensor installed

There aren't many photos online regarding the fuel pump modification for the RCC kit. The supplied instructions aren't too bad, but do imply some prior knowledge.
Here's some photos of the fuel pump dismantled in sections for those who haven't done this yet and are considering the RCC kit. I found info on this to be the hardest to find in a clear breakdown. Overall it wasn't difficult for a first timer (that's what she said).
View attachment 1658394
An overall part breakdown
View attachment 1658401
9/16" hole drilled for fuel fitting after centre section comprising of pump and filter bag removed.
View attachment 1658402
Fuel fitting attached with a gasket washer, nut, thread sealant and red loktite on the nut.
View attachment 1658403
Remaining unused parts left over and not needed consisting of housing, pump, regulator and filter.
View attachment 1658404

View attachment 1658405
The sump oil pan turned out well. Drilled out on a drill press sitting on a block of wood held it nice and flat for a right angle drilled hole.
Great work!!! Love seeing someone tear into it.
 
Did u do a high volume robinsons oil pump gear? or high pressure relief valve? I would absolutely recommend the robinsons oil pump gear. I have an oil pressure guage on mine and the oil gear does its job beautifully.... nice pressure across the board. Lots of people log data... but an oil pressure guage is NICE to have, so that if u notice a sudden loss of oil pressure in real time.... u can... LET OFF THE THROTTLE. lol. OIL PRESSURE and boost on guages. A wideband mounted off to the right.... RCC Super Ultra kit/ prostreet spec motor(crazy headowrk/turbo cams/ and even ceramic engine/tranny bearings.) They have some REALLY nice parts/pieces for hayabusas. The robinsons oil pump gear is worth it, at a minimum.

View attachment 1658437
Yeah it's just a street bike. I was looking at the higher volume oil pump recently.
 
Hi, so how much boost are you going for and what are you doing about the ECU? Flashed? And if so by who? Dyno tuned and if so by who?
Do you have suspension mods or stock?
Brake mods? Or stock?
Which tyres will you run?
I’m a curious guy and ask a lot of questions lol.
Progress is going ok. I'm seven days in and just taking my time.

It will be interesting to see what boost will suit it with the 9:1 turbo pistons. It will be sorted over two days of dyno testing and adjustment. Either preset boost or use the boost compensation tables.

The ECU will be flashed using a harness I purchased from Boost By Smith using ECUeditor to get the bike started initially. From there, tuning will be done using either ECUeditor, PIASINI, or AlienTech Kess 3 software. Yuri Mechanical will be doing the dyno tune.

The suspension will be readjusted for its new weight. Brocks rear lowering links and Trac Dynamics Slammerz front fork inserts will be used to lower the front. I'll need to contact Trac Dynamics at some point because dialogue on the progess of that order has since gone quiet.

The only brake upgrade at the moment is braided brake lines and Brembo RCS Corsa Corta front master.

Soft Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa tyres will be replacing my Rosso III's.

The hoist is set up to lower the engine down tomorrow.
The fuel rail and throttle body has been removed from the engine.
Chain and sprockets removed.
Sidestand removed.
Electrical harness and plugs disconnected.
The engine will receive new Wossner pistons and rods tomorrow before buttoning it back up with new Cometic gaskets.

hoist.jpeg
 
If you haven't bought the Brock's lowering links, if you mean the adjustable ones, dont. Buy the Soupy's adjustable. Much more sturdy. There have been some brocks breaking.
 
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Could anyone please point me in the right direction for the Wossner PM003 Rod bearing color to fit the '18 Busa crank? ...the one thing I completely forgot about ordering .....but if I'm unable to obtain them, what's generally the max hp rating of the stock rods?
 
What a busy day!
With all life's distractions, I cleaned up the parts, just installed pistons, gudgeon pins and the circlips which weren't as horrible to install as I thought. Just developed my own scratch free technique lol.
New gaskets, torque down bolts and auto tensioner will be reset and motor timed tomorrow. Then reassembled and back in the bike!

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Today was the tedious task of replacing the valve springs and retainers with APE heavy duty springs and titanium retainers.
I'm getting quicker at installing the 32 retainer clips. Although they were initially a torment, I got the hang of it, but it sure is slow going!
Early start tomorrow to make up for lost time today.
The 98 octane fuel used in this bike had quite a build up on the intake valves, but cleaned up swell.


dirty.jpeg
 
I must love punishing myself. Those valve springs were the f#@$&g worst haha but glad it's done. APE parts in.
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It helped to have a little Assembly Lube around the stem to hold the clips in place so they don't rattle around everywhere and become impossible to position.
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...and bolted down
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Another busy day brought to a close.

The engine is back together, timed and buttoned up.
Tomorrow it will be bolted back into the bike.

This brings to an end all the "recommended" optional modifications I have made to the engine for the Stage 1 Turbo kit if wanting more than 230 HP:

1. APE heavy duty engine studs
2. Titanium valve retainers
3. APE heavy duty valve springs
4. Wossner 9:1 pistons
5. Wossner Conrods

Only basic mods of course, but the $$$$ adds up fast!
The usual stuff is changed such as all related cometic gaskets and spark plugs etc etc.

Now I can get back to the turbo kit itself and next up with modifying the radiator.
 
Another busy day brought to a close.

The engine is back together, timed and buttoned up.
Tomorrow it will be bolted back into the bike.

This brings to an end all the "recommended" optional modifications I have made to the engine for the Stage 1 Turbo kit if wanting more than 230 HP:

1. APE heavy duty engine studs
2. Titanium valve retainers
3. APE heavy duty valve springs
4. Wossner 9:1 pistons
5. Wossner Conrods

Only basic mods of course, but the $$$$ adds up fast!
The usual stuff is changed such as all related cometic gaskets and spark plugs etc etc.

Now I can get back to the turbo kit itself and next up with modifying the radiator.
Basic Mods? Lower end Studs?

Only thing you are really "stepping down" is not doing 1/2 studs
other than that you should be good for ~500hp with that long block setup
 
Today was the tedious task of replacing the valve springs and retainers with APE heavy duty springs and titanium retainers.
I'm getting quicker at installing the 32 retainer clips. Although they were initially a torment, I got the hang of it, but it sure is slow going!
Early start tomorrow to make up for lost time today.
The 98 octane fuel used in this bike had quite a build up on the intake valves, but cleaned up swell.


View attachment 1658704
Hi. I am not a fan of ARP valvs springs or studs. I went with Pac valvs springs and ARP studs head,crank and the bolts for the cases.
 
Basic Mods? Lower end Studs?

Only thing you are really "stepping down" is not doing 1/2 studs
other than that you should be good for ~500hp with that long block setup
Yes?
1. APE heavy duty engine studs

...include both top and bottom end ...because I changed the conrods over to Wossner's... and the original bottom end studs were already stretched and didn't want to reinstall them.

For now, not intending to go beyond 300 Hp (if I even reach that tbh). It's just a stock swing arm and must be streetable.

I'd prefer to buy a new port and polished head and some WebCams and uprated fuel injection in the future if I'm going to go any further with it.
I really enjoy working on engines so I'd rather build a new engine from scratch in the garage and do a clean swap one day with a big boy motor and use it for the drags and buy a Gen III for the street ....maybe, but who knows. The target for now is 300 Hp or less but definitley more than 175 stock Hp.
 
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